Bridge Grounding Wire Question

[Stolysmaster]

Before my Schaller "roller saddle" bridge studs get pounded into their holes in the body of my Cadillac copy guitar, it occured to me that I had almost forgotten about the grounding wire going from the control cavity to one of the bridge stud holes!!

I quickly tried to find some info on this in Melvin's book and in Koch's book, but a quick five minute search this morning yielded no info. I'm guessing that I should just drill a hole from the control cavity into the stud hole (hoping to hit it on the first try!), and trying to have it pop thru just a bit above the bottom of the stud hole. Then, run a wire (14 ga?) thru the hole, leaving the last inch or so of the wire bare, and bend it down against the side of the stud hole. Then simply tap the stud in, and assume it makes a good contact.

Am I missing anything? Thanks.

[avengers63]

You'd be a LOT better off starting in the stud hole and aiming at the control cavity. The cavity is a much bigger target, therefore harder to miss. Other than that, it sounds OK.

[Mickguard]

You'd be a LOT better off starting in the stud hole and aiming at the control cavity. The cavity is a much bigger target, therefore harder to miss. Other than that, it sounds OK.

I'm wondering how it would be possible to achieve that? What kind of tool would you use to drill FROM a 12 mm hole? Unless you're talking about angling in from the top of the hole -- there's a risk of tearing up the wood though.

It's much easier going from the control cavity to the post hole. Just draw a line (imaginary or pencil) and point your drill that way. It helps to have a long bit.

[Stolysmaster]

avengers63,

I thought of that, but I was worried that because of the extremely small diameter of the stud hole that the angle of the drill bit would have to be so steep that I might miss the control cavity and come out the back of the guitar! My control cavity is not nearly as wide as that of a Les Paul, and the studs are much smaller diameter than a standard TOM. I will have to take a close look at it though.

Edited February 13, 2008 by Stolysmaster

[killemall8]

i would go from the stud hole also. if you use a long 1/8" bit, it flexes enough. i use a 10" long 1/8" bit, and wouldnt do it any other way but from the stud hole into the cavity. but you could always go from the stud hole into the pickup cavity

[avengers63]

Mickguard: Yes, there is a significant change of some tearout when the control cavity is breached. My statement to that is "So what - it's inside the cavity and won't be seen." And you are correct in my thoughts of angling the drill bit from within the post hole. I didn't say it wouldn't be an awkward angle, just that this way would have the least chance of missing.

This is exactly what I had to do on my tele, and I did have some tearout. Again, it was inside the control cavity, so who cares.

[Woodenspoke]

i would go from the stud hole also. if you use a long 1/8" bit, it flexes enough. i use a 10" long 1/8" bit, and wouldnt do it any other way but from the stud hole into the cavity. but you could always go from the stud hole into the pickup cavity

Kodos long bit steep angle. Keeps your drill chuck from hitting the body.