Reverse Forstner Bits?

[MescaBug]

I'm french, so I'll try to be as clear as possible;

Flushmount output jack needs at least 7/16" of wood, so the locking nut can secure the jack in place from inside the control cavity. What if you have, let's say, 1" of wood? The goal is to remove some thickness from inside the cavity. Pretty much impossible to do without making a mess. And that particular cavity is really small. I can't even get the drill chuck or a chisel in without touching the body... And the locking nut must be square against the cavity wall. So the hole must be drilled square.

Is there any bits or whatever, that drills on reverse? I mean, you get the drill shaft through the hole, put the drill on reverse and voila.

Unless there is another way to do it... What do you suggest?

Edited March 25, 2008 by MescaBug

[Rick500]

Do you have room to route some thickness out of that portion of the cavity while still keeping it under the cavity cover? Then you wouldn't have to worry about having room inside the cavity for a drill.

[MescaBug]

I tought about that. But no. The control plate is almost 1" from the side...

[Rick500]

I didn't word that very well, but here's what I meant... notice that where the output jack is located, I routed out some more of the cavity to make a flat area of the appropriate thickness in the cavity wall.

[MescaBug]

I got what you meant. Your control cavity is close to the side. Like I said, the guitar I'm working on has the cavity almost 1" from the side.

[Rick500]

Yeah, I thought you did, just making sure. I didn't get what you meant, but I see now.

Edit: Looks like they do make one... I could only find it in a 7-year-old article though.

Edited March 25, 2008 by Rick500

[KeithHowell]

You can make one yourself. Get the size you want and weld a piece of 5mm or 6mm rod onto the cutting end. Cut off the existing shaft if necessary Drill a hole through the wood put cutter through from inside guitar, chuck into drill and cut hole to depth required.

[Mattia]

Search for reverse spotfacing bit. I'm pretty sure any good machinists supply place (McMaster Carr, MSC) will carry it.

[guitar2005]

Search for reverse spotfacing bit. I'm pretty sure any good machinists supply place (McMaster Carr, MSC) will carry it.

In Canada, go to Fastenal. They have branches everywhere. www.fastenal.com

[Woodenspoke]

I'm french, so I'll try to be as clear as possible;

Flushmount output jack needs at least 7/16" of wood, so the locking nut can secure the jack in place from inside the control cavity. What if you have, let's say, 1" of wood? The goal is to remove some thickness from inside the cavity. Pretty much impossible to do without making a mess. And that particular cavity is really small. I can't even get the drill chuck or a chisel in without touching the body... And the locking nut must be square against the cavity wall. So the hole must be drilled square.

Is there any bits or whatever, that drills on reverse? I mean, you get the drill shaft through the hole, put the drill on reverse and voila.

Unless there is another way to do it... What do you suggest?

I believe you can just buy a longer jack and save yourself the cost of additional tooling

Longer jack reference link

[MescaBug]

Hopefully, I will find one in black..

Thanks a lot for the link.

[j. pierce]

I've always found Setchell's method of dealing with output jacks to be my favorite; uses a regular jack, but with a glued in bit of wood to retain the wood look. Avoids having to deal with barrel jacks, whilst still avoiding a jackplate.

Since my description doesn't make sense, see his original blog post on it here:

http://www.setchellguitars.co.uk/ant/blog/?page_id=22

Scroll to the bottom of the page and check the Jul 30 2004, 11:29 AM entry. Basically a large hole, then plugged with a glorified wooden "washer" to give a conventional jack something to screw onto.

Also, if the jack you have is almost making it, could you try recessing the head of the jack on the outside of the guitar a bit? That could be done easily.

[Quarter]

Just a random thought ... maybe drill a tight fitting hole, then tap an appropriate thread for the barrel.

To keep it locked in place, use a set screw system much like for a solid shaft knob.