Malakai Posted April 19, 2008 Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 Quick introduction. I'm a newb and an idiot so bare with me I've been reading up on the Saga kits for awhile now. Had like 90 seperate pages open, and I've come up with one question. Why doesn't everyone that wants clear finish just sand all the way through and apply a new veneer? It's not like their expensive.The tutorial on PG made it look simply(Course there is the curved top issue but meh) If I get that kit I'll prob attack the damn thing with 600 grit paper on my Random Orbital! If I screw up? No big deal. Highly considering buying a HT-10 from Brian in a few months time(Have to convince the wife of this little "project") Currently I'm refinishing a Ibanez EX160 with comical results, my first attempt at anything like this. And yes, Carvin kits are better, Grizzly kits are better, Warmoth body + neck is better. They're also not $100-160 for a playable instrument. Another option is this PRS body + Neck. Around $200. But I havent heard much about them anywhere. Mahogany body(Solid?) With a nice top. http://byoguitar.com/Guitars/PRS-Body-and-...-PRSBUNDLE.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted April 19, 2008 Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 well, you know everyone is going to say how much sagas suck. and im with them. but besides that. with a thinner veneer, which most are, around 1/42" thick. at that size, you cannot do a non flat surface without a vaccume press. you just wont be able to do a carved top. eve a flat top is way tricky. it is really easy to over apply glue, and ESPECIALLY get bubbles and wrinkles. that is the main reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malakai Posted April 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 well, you know everyone is going to say how much sagas suck. and im with them. but besides that. with a thinner veneer, which most are, around 1/42" thick. at that size, you cannot do a non flat surface without a vaccume press. you just wont be able to do a carved top. eve a flat top is way tricky. it is really easy to over apply glue, and ESPECIALLY get bubbles and wrinkles. that is the main reason. Glue is easy, use a rubber roller to apply glue as thin as possible. If I do get the Saga I'll probably attempt the steam method. If that doesn't work, well I'm sure I can find a vacuum system somewhere locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malakai Posted April 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 how about a cheap vacuum bag system? http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?famil...de=details#tabs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X1TX Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 I did a SAGA kit. I wanted a natural finish (I'm just odd that way). I got the Strat kit, and it took FOREVER to get the old finish off that thing. It's quite thick and plenty hard. But, it was cheap and it gave me lots of time to spend in the shop working on it. It can be taken off, it's just not easy to do. The wood looks okay, not great. But I wanted something that looked weathered and beaten so a good, shiny finish wasn't important. The necks on those kits are horrible though. I could take one finger and thumb and visibly bend it without much effort. It's okay as a wall hanger (mine sits in the shop hanging on the wall) and it can be played. But you can likely pick up a cheapo guitar at a pawn shop that would play better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToneMonkey Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 Were you using sand paper to try and get the finish off? Have a bash with emery cloth....... I learnt the hard way too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X1TX Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 Were you using sand paper to try and get the finish off? Have a bash with emery cloth....... I learnt the hard way too I think I used just about anything short of a thermonuclear device. A heat gun also works wonders. I don't know what it is they use to 'seal' those Saga bodies, but it's hard as a rock. Pretty darn thick too. They must dip the bodies in that stuff. It can come off, just don't expect it to be easy. The wood underneath was okay. Not fantastic, but okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malakai Posted April 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2008 Were you using sand paper to try and get the finish off? Have a bash with emery cloth....... I learnt the hard way too I think I used just about anything short of a thermonuclear device. A heat gun also works wonders. I don't know what it is they use to 'seal' those Saga bodies, but it's hard as a rock. Pretty darn thick too. They must dip the bodies in that stuff. It can come off, just don't expect it to be easy. The wood underneath was okay. Not fantastic, but okay. Im guessing its a poly resin like was on the ibanez I stripped. The damn thing was bullet proof. After 6 hours with a orbital sander and 60 grit paper I finally made it through the top. The back? I attacked with a heatgun and the stuff came off like popcorn. Hot scalding popcorn of death! Did burn the wood in several places but oh well. The refinish is exceeding my expectations. I'm freaking Dying of SAGA Gas right now. I want the PRS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X1TX Posted April 22, 2008 Report Share Posted April 22, 2008 Burned mine in a few spots too. But all in all it came out okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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