woodsman1031 Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 Hello, I have a 1x3 that I planned on using on a neck thru project. It is 48" long and has about a 1/4" lift on one end, if its laying on the 3" side. I have never steamed or heated a piece of lumber before. I know that some people do this alot to correct such things. Would yall please give me some suggestions? Thanks Tommy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 Hello, I have a 1x3 that I planned on using on a neck thru project. It is 48" long and has about a 1/4" lift on one end, if its laying on the 3" side. I have never steamed or heated a piece of lumber before. I know that some people do this alot to correct such things. Would yall please give me some suggestions? Thanks Tommy I would not try to straighten a neck blank. A finished neck, maybe, but there is no good reason to do this on a raw neck blank(it is asking for problems). Also you will find heating a 1" thick piece of wood sufficiently to straighten it is not an easy task. 1/8-3/16" is not too difficulty, 1/4" becomes more challenging, above that becomes a bear unless you rig up a large steam box that would allow you to heat the wood over a longer period(but that much moisture and heat for that duration is not something I want my neck blank subjected to) . FWIW; a 1" blank(even if it required no surfacing) is skinny for a neck through, unless your body is going to be 1" thick. Peace, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 How about planing it flat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsman1031 Posted May 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 Rich, I always lam another 3/4" piece on the back for the body. Tommy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidlook Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 +1 on just planing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFR Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 (edited) How about planing it flat? The board is starting out @ 1 inch thick. Planing out a 1/4 inch lift (or twist) is going to remove a lot of stock. I would (if it was maple) slice it up for fingerboards and start fresh with another piece of wood. just my .02. Roman Edited May 30, 2008 by RFR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 How about planing it flat? The board is starting out @ 1 inch thick. Planing out a 1/4 inch lift (or twist) is going to remove a lot of stock. I would (if it was maple) slice it up for fingerboards and start fresh with another piece of wood. just my .02. Roman Most necks are around 7/8" thick including a 1/4" finger board. So he would be removing that wood anyway. I would just plane it out and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFR Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 How about planing it flat? The board is starting out @ 1 inch thick. Planing out a 1/4 inch lift (or twist) is going to remove a lot of stock. I would (if it was maple) slice it up for fingerboards and start fresh with another piece of wood. just my .02. Roman Most necks are around 7/8" thick including a 1/4" finger board. So he would be removing that wood anyway. I would just plane it out and go from there. True, but he is planning on doing a neck through body. with one inch thick of warped board you do not have enough to angle the headstock ( unless using a scarf joint) You do not have the thickness to do glue body wings on unless he laminates. To factor in the neck angle you would need more than a 3/4 inch laminate as previously suggested. I would start with a more substantial chunk of wood if it was me. Roman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArieBombarie Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 I had the same problem with my piece of neck wood (2" mahogany), I went back to my supplier and exchanged it for a level piece... I just didn't see myself planing it.... I did straighten the topwood (1/2" zebrawood) with steam but I had a hard time straightening it out completely, so I don't think it's a realistic option for your neck blank as it is even thicker. If I where you, I would use this wood for the wings or something and get a new piece for the neck. If you use smaller pieces of the warped wood, the warp per piece is smaller, so if you plane the individual pieces you will lose less of the height of the wood... Grz Arjan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 Rich, I always lam another 3/4" piece on the back for the body. Tommy Cool, I figured you probably had something in mind. Neck wood to me is critical. I want the straightest grain, very very very well seasoned, I am less worried about quarter sawn vs flat(but straight is a must). I am leary when I see too much warpage in a piece. I really try to figure out if it is acceptable drying shrinkage, or if it is a clue to poor orientation. If the warp is an even movement along the whole length, I have no issue surfacing and using it. If the distortion starts at a point, some of the wood is straight, I avoid the piece. If it is a twist, that clues me in to what will happen as it shrinks and expands in service. If the distrortion is strong, I worry about tension, and what it will do after carving away material to shape the neck. These are considerations, not all twists, cups, or warps are the same. Use your good judgement, but never compramise on suspect neck wood Good Luck, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 Rich, I always lam another 3/4" piece on the back for the body. Tommy Cool, I figured you probably had something in mind. Neck wood to me is critical. I want the straightest grain, very very very well seasoned, I am less worried about quarter sawn vs flat(but straight is a must). I am leary when I see too much warpage in a piece. I really try to figure out if it is acceptable drying shrinkage, or if it is a clue to poor orientation. If the warp is an even movement along the whole length, I have no issue surfacing and using it. If the distortion starts at a point, some of the wood is straight, I avoid the piece. If it is a twist, that clues me in to what will happen as it shrinks and expands in service. If the distrortion is strong, I worry about tension, and what it will do after carving away material to shape the neck. These are considerations, not all twists, cups, or warps are the same. Use your good judgement, but never compramise on suspect neck wood Good Luck, Rich Dido. I stll havent figured out the 1" thick body yet regardless of the warp?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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