Control Plate Inlay

[Keegan]

So I have this tele control plate I want to inlay instead of having it rest on top of the guitar. I'm thinking first I need to make a template the exact size of the control plate, then follow that for a shallow pass the thickness of the plate with a ball bearing bit, then use the brass inlay bushing set I have for cutting the control cavity. This will allow me to use the same template for both parts of the process.

I have a couple questions though:

1. How much width do I need to leave in there for controls? Is an inch enough? This would give me 1/8" sides for the plate to rest on.

2. How much wood should I leave around the screw holes?

3. How deep? Is 1/4" enough wood to leave below the rout?

[Mickguard]

You know, there's just no substitute for actual experience. Or doing your own research. This is one of those questions where you're just going to have to do the work yourself. Well, a lot of your questions are like that lately.

There's only so long we can hold your hand-- at some point, you're going to have to dive in and start building. You'll figure out most of these things for yourself as you go along.

Just remember, your first guitar isn't going to be your last, so don't sweat the details.

[Keegan]

I know there's no substitute for actual experience, that's why I'm asking people who have actual experience. I have figured out most of the stuff for myself, I'm only asking a couple quick general woodworking questions since I have no woodworking experience.

I have started building, but I'm planning ahead so that I don't ruin a nice piece of padouk over something silly. If you don't want to be helpful, you don't even have to reply. At least I'm not asking you what color it should be or what pickups I should use like most of the newbies that come here do.

[psw]

It can get pretty tight inside a tele control cavity...check out what went into my tele on the link below. The cavity tends t be very close to the edges under that plate...I think 1/4 on each sie would be overdoing it. You could make it so as it waves around the pots to give it more support...but generally it is held on only at the ends and the plate stiff enough to self support.

Beware that you have enough room for your selector switch...a lot of blade switches only just fit, with the control inlaid you are in danger of going through the back of your average guitar!

You will make mistakes and a router can take some practice to use and get used to. Make a template, rest the router on the actual plate and plunge and lock securely and this will give the exact depth for the bit...again make sure everything is tight and rock solid...make sure your template is stuck on ver securely and double check for straightness...now rout out the depth of the plate to shape, fit it and see what you think. Now, put your control template on and route this...first drill out a lot of the material to a given depth...then clean up with the router...

Now...did it work out ok...no...never mind, because you did all this on scrap and practiced twice...on the first go you made a decision whether it even looks good and is worth the effort...then try it on the guitar.

Seriously...I have not done a lot of "guitar building" but I know the risks and so when I take to a guitar with a router I make sure I know what I am doing. After you have made lots of mistakes with the router on things like bookcases and other stuff...you will have made a lot of mistakes you can 'live with'...make them on a guitar and they are there for good.

A router can be a tricky and dangerous tool...electric planers and angle grinders a little worse perhaps in the casualty stakes...don't under estimate it and take some time to get a feel for it...you will be glad you did and it really will show in your work.

Good luck, but be aware that both strats and tele's have trouble with that blade switch and both have non-inlaid guards. My strat I installed a super switch in it, it has a back routed cavity and it only just doesn't fin...you can see how the back cavity bulges...you can not do this with wood!

[Supernova9]

So I have this tele control plate I want to inlay instead of having it rest on top of the guitar. I'm thinking first I need to make a template the exact size of the control plate, then follow that for a shallow pass the thickness of the plate with a ball bearing bit, then use the brass inlay bushing set I have for cutting the control cavity. This will allow me to use the same template for both parts of the process.

I have a couple questions though:

1. How much width do I need to leave in there for controls? Is an inch enough? This would give me 1/8" sides for the plate to rest on.

2. How much wood should I leave around the screw holes?

3. How deep? Is 1/4" enough wood to leave below the rout?

Mickguard, don't jump straight in preaching like you're some kind of father figure to the board. You're a PEER. Someone asks a question, answer it. If you don't want to answer it, don't post. Jumping down their throat does nothing.

In answer to your questions:

1. If you look at the Tele plate, there's at least half an inch at either end (where the screw holes are) that won't need cavity underneath. That can be the basis of the support for the pots/switch. 1/8" sounds good for a ledge, though measure the diameter of your potentiometers beforehand just to make sure.

2. Best way to work out dimensions is to get the potentiometers and switch, fit them to the plate and then work out the spacing around that.

3. Yes, 1/4" is enough, you're not putting any kind of tension/pressure on that part of the body, so that thickness will be fine.

Hope that helps!

Edited December 4, 2008 by Supernova9

[Mickguard]

Mickguard, don't jump straight in preaching like you're some kind of father figure to the board. You're a PEER. Someone asks a question, answer it. If you don't want to answer it, don't post. Jumping down their throat does nothing except make them think you're an idiot.

Care to rephrase that? I don't recall insulting you or anyone else. So why are you insulting me?

[Keegan]

Thanks psw and supernova. I think the body is going to be around 1-7/8" when I'm done, so that should give me room for any controls depth-wise. I guess I'll have to take apart my strat again to measure the pots. From memory I'd say they're around 7/8"-1". I think I'll be safe with an inch. I can always go back with the drill press if they don't quite fit.

Sorry I'll have to keep you guys waiting on pictures, it doesn't look like I'll be getting into woodcraft too soon. It'll be best if I wait until I have the hardware before I do any routing, too.

[psw]

Yes...always have the hardware before doing stuff like this..and the tools...preferably the electronics too...and test on scrap...especially new ideas.

Re reading the first post again I spotted this...

then follow that for a shallow pass the thickness of the plate with a ball bearing bit, then use the brass inlay bushing set I have for cutting the control cavity. This will allow me to use the same template for both parts of the process.

So...I may be not understanding...what is a brass inlaying bit and I am not sure fi you'd want to use it to save on a template.

The problem with the electronics is not going to be the pots...it is the switch depth that is deep, especially some of those blade switches...I'm pretty sure an inch will nowhere be enough depth for those. Even pots, although an inch depth will be enough, if mounted to a metal control plate, they need spacers or nuts under them of perhaps a 1/4" so that the knobs don't stick way up high. If you are using mini toggle switches or something, you may have room, but don't forget the wiring...this can be tricky in tight spaces and can easily turn into a birds nest if complicated with all the will and experience in the world.

To give a little bit of an idea, here's my tele wiring...

Sure, there's a lot of wiring in there and push pull pots. The cavity is conventional tele style, quite deep allowing the battery to fit in, even under the conventional tone pot...the selector is not a blade switch but a compact LP style thing, a blade may have been deeper. The push pull pots almost touch the bottom.

Notice that with all the pots there is a lot of space between the underside of the control plate and the body of the pots...I made a disk of 1/8" MDF to space out the selector. This wiring needed more work before being finished...that big grey shielded output lead had to go for a start.

Looks good...but if you look carefully, you will see that the control plate is pushed up a touch and worse should you accidentally get a wire caught under a pot when closing it up after changing the battery.

Obviously a lot of wiring there...but as I say, a similar thing tries to happen on my strats back plate with the "super-switch" and in general you need to allow not only for the switch depth but the wires attached to it...especially if there is any metal or shielding in there that could cause a mystery short later on.

...

I also sense a bit of frustration with people or in myself that there are numerous posts regarding a single project or in developing an idea. For instance, are we taking what I assumed to be a conventional tele plate...or are we really talking about a bigger scheme as in this thread...Crazy Semi-Acoustic

idea?

Much better to have one thread if so and develop the concept with the help of others who will follow it along the way and chip in methods and ideas...than multiple questions that don't lead to anything much. It doesn't matter if the thread changes direction or runs for years...look at some of mine or Metal Matts...but people tend to invest their interest in a project and "will it along" if they can see the bigger picture.

Often it is important to know the whole idea first as well.

It is a first guitar...but there is only going to be "one first guitar"...it is worth going all the way with the planning and the details...fleshing out and changing details on the project in both the planning and the execution.

But it is good that you are planning, thinking and asking for advice and you have asked in a cohesive and specific manner...don't be put off...even today, I just woke up!

pete

[Dadovfor]

Jumping down their throat does nothing except make them think you're an idiot.

Care to rephrase that? I don't recall insulting you or anyone else.

Let me attempt to re-phrase it ... jumping down their throat is going to make them feel like an idiot; and do nothing to address their need.

I've answered (and asked) a few questions where the answer was pretty obvious ... and upon seeing the answers the penny can drop for some people and they realise it was right in front of them the whole time. C'est la vie.

But I see "research" as a continuum Mickguard, and interrogating the more experienced practitioner is arguably just as valid as literature (and internet) review. Like you ... I do see some very lazy questions (IMHO) and I just don't respond. [Mostly I don't respond 'cos I'm a noob myself and I know others will do a better job of responding] .

I won't go on ... just my 2c worth (which is only about a quarter of an American penny at the moment!!!!!).

Edited December 5, 2008 by Dadovfor

[Keegan]

The brass inlay thing isn't a bit, it's a set of brass bushings that attach to the base of the router for following templates. Not as convenient as ball bearings if you need to follow a template exactly, but if you need to cut inside one they're great. They look like this: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?Famil...391&pcs=fam

I'll have to check the width and possibly wrap it in some tape to get the desired distance from the template. I want to use them on the neck pocket too, since the stewmac template is oversized by just over 1/16" (they say it's only .040" too wide, but they're full of it).

Probably safer than the bearing bit too since there's nothing to ride up and friction is a non-issue because it isn't attached to the bit.

As for the switch, I'm not using a blade switch since I have a blank plate. It is conventional tele-sized though. I'll probably use either an LP switch or a mini-toggle. That and I don't plan on having any push/pulls or anything like that. I should have plenty of room, maybe even not need the battery box. Keeping the wiring tidy is going to be trickier, but a lot of the EMG stuff comes pre-wired. Thankfully I won't have to shield it. I tried to shield my strat and it didn't make any difference and a wire was shorting out somewhere that I could never find so I gave up on it and just tore all the shielding out and left it. My wiring/soldering has gotten much better with the practice I've had on my strat and upgrading my DS-1, so I don't think I'll have any trouble getting it done right.

The metal-top guitar is another concept entirely, I was just pondering it for a future build. I've come to like anodized aluminum on guitars, especially after replacing the pickguard on my strat. Before: http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p270/xS...0170640x480.jpg After: http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p270/xShifty/MIM.jpg

Edit: If you look carefully, you'll notice that the string spacing on the neck pickup is messed up. This is because I accidentally destroyed the old neck pickup and had to use the bridge from the set instead. Also the second tone knob is gone, it too was destroyed trying to bend the shaft with pliers to fit knobs that were too small...oops.

Edited December 4, 2008 by Keegan

[Tim37]

I am planning a build that will use a tele control plate and i was thinking of rear routing it so i could have easy access and plenty of room for the pots.