jaycee Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 I have enough Ash and Sapele left over to make a backing plate out of. Will these woods do or should I get some Maple or rose wood. Has anyone ever used ferrules rather than bridge pins, I know it would mean no single string changes without slackening the strings but an intersting idea nonetheless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acousticraft Posted December 9, 2008 Report Share Posted December 9, 2008 (edited) I used Sapele for bridge plates on both the acoustics Ive built, as I also used Sapele for the back and sides so had plenty left over. Its tough stuff but may not be as bright sounding as maple or Rosewood. I have thought about using a thin piece of brass and gluing it to the soundboard. Now that would transfer the vibration between string and sound board nicely. Edited December 9, 2008 by Acousticraft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truckjohn Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Basically, the way I understand it..... The main properties you are looking for are: Abrasion resistant -- so Spruce and Cedar are out Not too heavy -- No lignum vitae or Snakewood Able to flex -- Ebony is out Preferable to have Closed grain -- so no oak either. And..... you can reliably glue it to wood...... which is why we probably don't see people using thin Stainless Steel shim stock. I think this is why folks like Maple, Rosewood, etc. I think it is also why a plethora of other woods would be adequate. I have heard of folks using the thin aircraft plywood -- and laminating up a "Graduated" brace -- starting thin at the edges and thick where the strings live. Good luck John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 You guys seem to know a bit about this, and I don't think this is hijacking the thread, so... Does anyone have thoughts on the effects of the bridge plate on tone? I have a source for some ugly Brazilian Rosewood, and I've been wondering if it would be beneficial to go that route. Has anyone ever used ferrules rather than bridge pins, I know it would mean no single string changes without slackening the strings but an intersting idea nonetheless. How would you use the ferrules? Do you want to put them where bridge pins would be and just string it by sticking your hand in the sound hole? Also, you've seen these, right? Does this accomplish what you're looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 You guys seem to know a bit about this, and I don't think this is hijacking the thread, so... Does anyone have thoughts on the effects of the bridge plate on tone? I have a source for some ugly Brazilian Rosewood, and I've been wondering if it would be beneficial to go that route. Has anyone ever used ferrules rather than bridge pins, I know it would mean no single string changes without slackening the strings but an intersting idea nonetheless. How would you use the ferrules? Do you want to put them where bridge pins would be and just string it by sticking your hand in the sound hole? Also, you've seen these, right? Does this accomplish what you're looking for? Maple is neutral, rosewood is more bass oriented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 How would you use the ferrules? Do you want to put them where bridge pins would be and just string it by sticking your hand in the sound hole? Also, you've seen these, right? Does this accomplish what you're looking for? I thought of installing ferrules into the backing plate, and as you say, install the strings through the sound hole. I have not seen this anywhere and have not looked into it at all, but in theory I can't see why it should not work, apart from the ferrule size being to large Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 Yeah, I'm no expert, but I agree with your logic. The bridge shouldn't vibrate any differently, and the tension shouldn't be any different. In fact, it might help to prevent wear on the bridge plate to do it your way. I can't imagine any tonal differences would be significant. The biggest reason most people wouldn't want to do this would probably be the pain of restringing through the sound hole. Personally, my arm wouldn't fit in there. But if the guitar's for you, why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 21, 2008 Report Share Posted December 21, 2008 Ferrules will add weight - metal is much denser than even the heaviest woods or bone. You want to keep your bridge light, or it's like a boat anchor sitting in the centre of the soundboard. That's why you don't see many people using brass saddles, pins or bridge plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egdeltar Posted December 26, 2008 Report Share Posted December 26, 2008 I'd be worried about the ferrules shutting down the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted December 26, 2008 Report Share Posted December 26, 2008 Seems like everyone is touching on the key concepts. Weight, durability, stability, stiffness. You should remember you also have the ability to adjust the thickness, size, shape, and how you taper to the surrounding soundboard. When you think of weight of a more dense hardwood, you could adjust the thickness a bit and bring the weight in very close. Specific gravity of say Hard Maple vs Most Rosewoods is about .6 to .8, and given the durability you should be able to thickness the rosewood a bit to adjust leaving you with a small weight difference. Stiffness is going to vary with thickness, shape and taper also. Just food for thought. Either way durability is not something I would not skimp on. You don't want to have to repair a bridge plate any sooner than you have to. Proper fit will cut down on the wear a lot more than a little difference in the durability of the wood you use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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