Bmth Builder Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 If I wanted a black contrasting pinstrip between a back and top, and only had 0.6mm thick peices, could I glue two together to get a thicker line? Would it still be black or will you notice the glue line? Cheers Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postal Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 I think it would depend on the material and your gluing skills and equipment. Unless you have a veneer press or a vacuum bag setup it sounds too risky to me. Just my opinion though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmth Builder Posted February 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 Well for example if you were gluing neck lams together a 5 peice that was say maple/black veneer/maple/black veneer/maple e.g this http://www.ormsbyguitars.com/galleries/sha...es/IMG_2614.jpg Then you could glue a veneer to one side of each of the out side lams, facing in, and a veneer on both sides of the middle lam, and then glue it up like a 3 peice, only each peice will have a veneer on it, and the veneer will double up. I'm just worried about keeping it black and without glue lines... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postal Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 I know how to lam a body, but I'm no expert on it. I believe that a lam neck is easier to achieve a minimum clamping pressure. I think a body is much mor difficult to achieve the same pressures without a veneer press or vac bag system. Having said that, I think that it may depend on the material itself as well. You're talking about wood that is dyed black yes? I think that 2 thin wood veneers would have better success than 2 layers of "fish paper" or whatever people call that black paper these days.... has to do with how the glue is soaked into the material and moisture wicked away from the glue- I *think* generally however, that most of the moisture from wood glue gets absorbed into the thicker layer of wood, since the thin veneer becomes saturated. Now putting 2 veneers next to each other, would require a much longer clamping time to let the moisture absorb from between the veneers- through the veneer and into the next layer of wood - IE the top and back... If you're talking about real wood veneers and have a veneer press or vac bag, I think you'd be ok if you leave it clamped/bagged for a full day. Normally gluing with titebond in a press or bag is a 1 hour deal, but this would take up to a full 24 hours because the moisture would saturate the veneer itself and need to work into the other wood for the glue to dry... If you have access to a veneer press or vac bag, I think it can be done fairly easily. Without a press or vac bag, I *think* the results would be less than spectacular. The easiest and most straightforward solution is to buy veneer in the final thickness you're after. However I do want to point out that I'm not an expert in this subject. I laminate my necks but I'm not an expert on thin veneer and lam bodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buter Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 I'm just worried about keeping it black and without glue lines... Hi Neil Have you considered using epoxy mixed with graphite powder for laminating your veneers? Any visible glue line would be black as could be. Cheers Buter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 If I recall, I remember reading something the other day about applying an even thin coat of Titebond I to both surfaces and letting it dry. Then ironing both sheets together to bond them. I've never tried this and I really wish I could recall where I read it again....I think it was on the mylespaul forums.... Personally, I would use one thin veneer only or try and get the thicker constructional veneer. I've never had problems laminating using clamps on their own, but then again I have a lot of clamps so make of that what you will!! That reminds me of when I was doing just this, and decided to move the workpiece off the bench and it was so heavy I couldn't move it for clamps. Hah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postal Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 I have a lot of clamps so make of that what you will!! That reminds me of when I was doing just this, and decided to move the workpiece off the bench and it was so heavy I couldn't move it for clamps. Hah! Yeah- I did the same once. My GF was in the garage watching me... She started laughing at me when I didnt have any room left to add "one more clamp" I had in my hand and try to figure out where to crank it on.... You sure it was titebond you read about? Thats a normal procedure for veneer glue which is completely different. I personally would never try it with titebond- I just dont see how you could get a nice tight line that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 I've never had problems laminating using clamps on their own, but then again I have a lot of clamps so make of that what you will!! As long as you are using wood I don't see the problem either. The body acts as its own veneer press. Pre gluing is a waste of effort and may only make it harder to get a clean joint. Now if you are talking fiber veneer sheets I am not sure how that would work structurally. If you don't have enough clamps then add a heavy block of wood as a caul. Clamp thee body then cut the shape out (I keep seeing this all the time, not that I am saying you do this). Don't squeeze every bit of glue out of the joint either with the clamp. You will need strips larger than the body and I would use block to keep the body off the table and let the veneer hang both below and above the joint. It is hard to align many sheets of veneer on a flat surface. Flatten the veneer later when the glue dries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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