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Posted

Im new here but ive been surfin the forums and guitarbuild forums for a while and I cant seem to find an answer to this one. I resawed a piece of 4/4 flamed maple this mornin, ran it through the thickness sander, and then by the time i was ready to glue it on my mahogany blank, one piece was already slightly warped. ellaposed time between resawing it and getting ready to glue was probly 15-20 mins at the most. I put quite a few clamps and weights on the blank to get rid of the slight warp and its pretty much gone but is there a way to not get that warp from the begining or is it pretty much useless and im gonna get a slight warp no matter what??

MzI

Posted

In my limited experience (3 maple tops), this is standard behavior for figured maple. I've had exactly the same thing happen on all my tops, all freshly cut from supposedly dry wood. They were all 1/8" thick glued down onto other blanks, and they all clamped down and held nicely, sanded out fine, and are now nice & flat.

I think the issue is the grain; it goes every which way in figured maple, and the thinner the slice the more apparent the prevailing warp will be.

Posted

I bought the board from my local lumber yard here in NY way back almost a year ago and it has been sitin on my floor in my backcloset in my bedroom

MzI

Posted

the place i get my lumber is pretty good tho i dont see why it wouldnt be dry now because i have had the piece for a good 10 to 11 months or so and it has been just sittin here on my floor drying

MzI

Posted
the place i get my lumber is pretty good tho i dont see why it wouldnt be dry now because i have had the piece for a good 10 to 11 months or so and it has been just sittin here on my floor drying

Hmm... you're in NY too, I see. This past spring/summer has been incredibly humid, so much so that I had some bad mold problems in my house (had to spend $800 on a industrial ozone generator, worked great BTW :D.) I wonder if the high humidity could have affected the drying process of your wood.

Posted
mayb im not totally sure i usually keep my wood in the second floor where its not quite as humid as down in the cellar

The humidity was REALLY bad this year. It didn't matter if it was 2nd floor or cellar (where I am anyway.) I could even smell mold outside just walking my neighborhood this past summer :D.

Moisture content might have been the problem. What erikbojerik suggests above sounds quite feasible too.

Posted
the place i get my lumber is pretty good tho i dont see why it wouldnt be dry now because i have had the piece for a good 10 to 11 months or so and it has been just sittin here on my floor drying

MzI

It doesn't matter how long it's been sitting around. If it was dried too fast initially it's going to be tempered and there really isn't anything you can do about it

Posted

I'm sorry I was incorrect in my terminology. The correct term in case hardening. Here's the definition

Case Hardening

A defect in the lumber caused by improper drying. Case Hardening is caused when a board is dried too fast. The outer layers in a case hardened board are compressed while the inner layers are in tension.

Posted

thanx for all the info, i still got some of the board left to do another guitar. the next one is gonna b a 59 v style but its not gonna get started til summer probly cuz i go away to school so well see what happens when i resaw the rest of the board

MzI

Posted

how did you set it down? if you didnt set it on its side so the air can get at it on BOTH sides, that could be a mjor factor as well, just my .02

Curtis

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