Adding Binding To A Headstock

[Nalo1022]

I am over hauling my Epi LP Ive got new pickups in it with custom wiring and will be adding some gold hardware. I got this guitar years ago really cheap because someone tried to install new tuning machines and butchered the head stock (6 inline with 3 backwards). At the time I was not the best with tools but managed to do a somewhat acceptable job of doweling and re-drilling the tuning machine holes. It worked but wasn't pretty. Long story short (kinda late now) I plan on re-doing the job, but much better now that I have tools and some experience. I was thinking, while I'm fixing and refinishing the headstock, of adding binding to the headstock. The neck and body are bound and the headstock looks odd to me without it. I don't think there will be an issue, but I always like to get second opinions on this board from some of the more experienced people. I plan on doing a single ply of cream to match the rest of the guitar, so not much material will be taken away. I am also considering reshaping the headstock as I have always hated the Epi shape, it just seems a little too lumpy looking.

P.S. I know there may be a person or 2 who is wondering why I am putting all this work into an Epi. I've got a Gibson V as my main guitar, but also a few that have sentimental value. The Epi sounds great and plays great as well as having a lot of sentimental value, so no one needs to tell me to save up for a better guitar.

[killemall8]

Just wondering how your going to cut the channel, with the fretboard blocking the way of a router.

[Nalo1022]

I plan to use a router to get most of the channel done and then use a dremel and some hand tools to finnish the channel where it meets with the FB. Or now that I think about it I may just use the dremel the whole way around

Edited March 10, 2010 by Nalo1022

[Drak]

I think it will depend on how much you want to spend to make it happen, if you need to tool up just to get binding on one headstock, it may not be worth it financially...

A good option (don't laugh) is to tape it off and just paint on the binding. If you do a really thorough job and use the right paint of the correct color, you may not even pick up the difference, and it will be financially do-able for just one headstock. Don't laugh, even if you want to paint it on, you'll have to concentrate and bring your skills to the table just as much as if you installed real binding.

Other than that, you could buy the little Stew-Mac Dremel attachment tool and bit to do it, that's how I did most of mine.

It's a tedious little bastard and you can screw up with it, which is why I'm telling you about the painted-on binding approach.

The painted on approach is cheap, easy, and (most likely) reversible if you do something wrong, and if you do it right, you'll be good to go, happy, and done. You still need to get the right materials and tint it to match your binding to make it pass as real.

Do something wrong with the dremel attachment or whatever else you choose to use and it may not be reversible and you will wish you had just left things alone...

This is a case where I think what is called for is quick, easy, good enough, done, call it a day and move on approach.

If you start to get too deep into it and make a screw-up, you'll wish you had just left better alone, as you will start to create new and bigger headaches for yourself that you didn't expect or necessarily want to deal with.

Just a common sense no-frills option...

[Bionic Dave]

ok your going to love me for giving you this trick then. You can use a router on the hole channel my way.

1 get a piece of mdf 1/2" to 3/4" thick.

2 trace the headstock onto paper. tape to mdf.

3 leaving 4 or 5" of mdf on the end of the headstock/ where the nut is.

4 Then cut out the headstock shape - the channel depth.

5 now cut the mdf from where the nut is to the end of the extra material is over the finger board. but leave enough for the bearing to travel on.

6 now use double sided tape to hold it down and route away.

7 you will have to stop just at the nut if its an angled headstock and finish with a chisel.

Hope this helps.

[Drak]

Another note I'll add to that is if you do decide to re-shape the whole thing, you can do it on a smaller, thinner piece of wood, then use that as your template to route it onto the headstock.

That allows you some 'insurance' if you don't like the first design you can redesign it until you're happy with it, then use that as your router template to route the real thing to your real headstock after you know you like it.

That's if you're already tooled up.

I wouldn't go buying a bunch of tools or materials just for one headstock binding job...

[Nalo1022]

PRS Tait I was actually considering something exactly like that lol. The only reason I was considering using my dremel is because I live in an apartment. I have my dremel here and can use it pretty easliy. My router (wel most of my shop) is still at my parents until I buy a house with somewhere to put it all lol. The only thing that may give me trouble is where the binding meets the finger board, but I think I will be able to amke a samll area underneath it and essentially inlay the binding.