BJPUC Posted May 11, 2010 Report Posted May 11, 2010 anyone have a schematic for installing a LED into a rat pedal??? thanks! Quote
borge Posted May 12, 2010 Report Posted May 12, 2010 http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Stomp...mpboxWiring.gif The size of the resister determines the LED's brightness. Quote
BJPUC Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Posted May 19, 2010 the schematic is great thanx, but it doesnt match the insides of my rat. any gurus want a pic of the inside and maybe help me find the correct points of solder for the resistor/led???? i tried it in a few different spots and either cut the signal alot or in one spot it boosted the signal to stupid levels.( which was actually kinda cool.) but anywhere i put it, on and off didnt turn the led off and on. it just stayed on. thanx.. Quote
Samba Pa Ti Posted May 19, 2010 Report Posted May 19, 2010 does the pedal have true bypass wiring ? does it have a 3pdt switch in it ? (that switch is shown in the gif linked by borge) if its just a dpdt switch replacing it with a 3pdt will make it easy to add an led but will require rewiring. Quote
BJPUC Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Posted May 19, 2010 not sure, im new to modding. i can send you a pic???? Quote
Samba Pa Ti Posted May 19, 2010 Report Posted May 19, 2010 use http://tinypic.com to upload one and post it here Quote
BJPUC Posted May 19, 2010 Author Report Posted May 19, 2010 the second shows the resistor that boosted the signal like crazy when i hooked the led and resistor to it. is that something i can do to boost the power of the pedal also???? Quote
col Posted May 19, 2010 Report Posted May 19, 2010 (edited) If my memory serves me correctly, the RAT was the inspiration for the development of the 'Millenium Bypass' allowing cheaper components to be used while still providing true bypass and an LED indicator (without the circuitry, you would need a 3PDT switch instead of just 2P2T) Search 'Millenium Bypass' and you'll probably find some discussion of the RAT approach and how it works. EDIT: looky here cheers Col Edited May 19, 2010 by col Quote
Paul Marossy Posted May 19, 2010 Report Posted May 19, 2010 If my memory serves me correctly, the RAT was the inspiration for the development of the 'Millenium Bypass' allowing cheaper components to be used while still providing true bypass and an LED indicator (without the circuitry, you would need a 3PDT switch instead of just 2P2T) Correct on all counts. Quote
westhemann Posted May 20, 2010 Report Posted May 20, 2010 I had no idea they were even still making the Rat..I had one in '89 Quote
BJPUC Posted May 20, 2010 Author Report Posted May 20, 2010 im not sure how to date it, but i believe mine is an older one. did the pics shed any light on things? Quote
Paul Marossy Posted May 20, 2010 Report Posted May 20, 2010 im not sure how to date it, but i believe mine is an older one. did the pics shed any light on things? There are some source-date codes on the pots. That would give you an idea of whan it was made. Check out his link: http://home.provide.net/~cfh/pots.html Quote
BJPUC Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Posted May 21, 2010 so would it do any harm to mess witht he resistor i highlighted with the screwdriver? it boosted the volume like crazy? how would i go about it????? Quote
col Posted May 21, 2010 Report Posted May 21, 2010 so would it do any harm to mess with he resistor i highlighted with the screwdriver? it boosted the volume like crazy? how would i go about it????? I would leave it alone. From the pic you posted, it looks like the 1k resistor on the output of the op-amp. Messing with it will probably change the tonal characteristics, output level and overall response of the unit (in a bad way). It's usually safe to assume that the folks who designed it knew a whole lot more about electronics and guitar FX than you do, and that they chose the correct component. If your Rat is one of the early ones with no LED, then the easiest option would be to swap the RAT's 2P2T switch for a 3P2T switch, and wire up an led to the switch - like in the page Borge posted (post 2 in the thread) - this is assuming that you can fit a 3P2T switch in there. (If you can't understand that diagram and how it could be installed in your RAT, then you probably should just leave it as it was, before you break it. At least until you have learned a bit more about electronics and reading schematics) cheers Col Quote
BJPUC Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Posted May 21, 2010 cool. i dated the pots and i believe they are cts pots. week 17 of 1987. sweet.. Quote
Paul Marossy Posted May 21, 2010 Report Posted May 21, 2010 cool. i dated the pots and i believe they are cts pots. week 17 of 1987. sweet.. Well, there you go. Quote
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