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Posted

the schematic is great thanx, but it doesnt match the insides of my rat. any gurus want a pic of the inside and maybe help me find the correct points of solder for the resistor/led???? i tried it in a few different spots and either cut the signal alot or in one spot it boosted the signal to stupid levels.( which was actually kinda cool.) but anywhere i put it, on and off didnt turn the led off and on. it just stayed on.

thanx..

Posted

does the pedal have true bypass wiring ?

does it have a 3pdt switch in it ? (that switch is shown in the gif linked by borge)

if its just a dpdt switch replacing it with a 3pdt will make it easy to add an led but will require rewiring.

Posted

a0beo4.jpg

2ezk6fk.jpg

the second shows the resistor that boosted the signal like crazy when i hooked the led and resistor to it. is that something i can do to boost the power of the pedal also????

Posted (edited)

If my memory serves me correctly, the RAT was the inspiration for the development of the 'Millenium Bypass' allowing cheaper components to be used while still providing true bypass and an LED indicator (without the circuitry, you would need a 3PDT switch instead of just 2P2T)

Search 'Millenium Bypass' and you'll probably find some discussion of the RAT approach and how it works.

EDIT: looky here

cheers

Col

Edited by col
Posted
If my memory serves me correctly, the RAT was the inspiration for the development of the 'Millenium Bypass' allowing cheaper components to be used while still providing true bypass and an LED indicator (without the circuitry, you would need a 3PDT switch instead of just 2P2T)

Correct on all counts. :D

Posted

so would it do any harm to mess witht he resistor i highlighted with the screwdriver? it boosted the volume like crazy? how would i go about it?????

Posted
so would it do any harm to mess with he resistor i highlighted with the screwdriver? it boosted the volume like crazy? how would i go about it?????

I would leave it alone. From the pic you posted, it looks like the 1k resistor on the output of the op-amp. Messing with it will probably change the tonal characteristics, output level and overall response of the unit (in a bad way). It's usually safe to assume that the folks who designed it knew a whole lot more about electronics and guitar FX than you do, and that they chose the correct component.

If your Rat is one of the early ones with no LED, then the easiest option would be to swap the RAT's 2P2T switch for a 3P2T switch, and wire up an led to the switch - like in the page Borge posted (post 2 in the thread) - this is assuming that you can fit a 3P2T switch in there.

(If you can't understand that diagram and how it could be installed in your RAT, then you probably should just leave it as it was, before you break it. At least until you have learned a bit more about electronics and reading schematics)

cheers

Col

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