Fret Leveling Questions

[Schappy]

I have a neck I bought to put on a body that I made. Theres quite a bit of buzzing all around so I want to basically level all the frets. What do I need to do and what are the most cost effective tools. I looked at Stew Mac and there are many options.

[Helldunkel]

I have a neck I bought to put on a body that I made. Theres quite a bit of buzzing all around so I want to basically level all the frets. What do I need to do and what are the most cost effective tools. I looked at Stew Mac and there are many options.

This is what I use for the job....

to check how level the fingerboard is...

Precision Straightedges

to level out the frets

6'' Fret/Fingerboard Leveling Files

to take off the file marks

Diamond Fret Levelers

to recrown the frets

Double-edge Fret File

Then use some very fine grit sandpaper to take all the marks off and 000 steel wool, eventually some thype of metal polish to make them become mirror shiny...

[ihocky2]

Before touching the frets, have you done a full start to finish setup. That is the first thing I would do. Then you'll know what you have to work with. With any luck that will take care of most of the buzz, if not all of it.

If you do need to level the frets, the most important thing to have is a PRECISION straight edge. Some rulers are straight enough from the factory, but very few actually are. A few thousandths off in straightness can lead to high frets.

[Woodenspoke]

A 24" straight edge is a great tool however it in useless for checking the tops of frets. To properly check the FB you need the slotted straight edge sold by SM. That way you can check the board with the frets on. Be aware that I returned one and had to final level the second SM tool I received because it was not at all level. Sand paper on glass checking with a known good straight edge. I suggest Lee Valley for straight edges as they have the best prices and I have never received a bad SE from them.

One you have determined the FB is OK and the neck is straight as you can get it without strings attached then you need only one more tool. A sanding beam. You can make one out of any material you want or buy one. Either way it need to be checked with a straight edge for flatness. Ideally a straight edge that spans every fret is best, that way you cut every fret at the same time. 18" is minimum 6" will make a mess. You attach a 320 grit sand paper (being Conservative here)to the beam to level the frets. But first mark the tops of each fret with a black (sharpie) marker so you can see the low spots (still has black on the fret) as you sand across the tops.

When all the black is removed you have a set of level tops. Now more black marker and use fret crowning tools to reshape the crowns on the frets. When you just remove the last vestige of black from the top of each fret move on to the next one.

This is all assuming your FB is straight and level if not remove the frets then level the FB.

[ihocky2]

Spoke, why do you say a 24" straightedge is useless for checking the tops of frets? Just looking for some insight. This is how I check my frets, I'm not saying it's right, just what I find works.

Use 24" straight edge to make sure board is dead flat before fretting.

Seat the frets.

Use notched straight edge to make sure board is still flat after fretting.

Use 24" to gauge overall flatness of frets and use 6" straight edge to work smaller areas.

Once I level the frets I check it again with the 24".

[Woodenspoke]

Spoke, why do you say a 24" straightedge is useless for checking the tops of frets? Just looking for some insight. This is how I check my frets, I'm not saying it's right, just what I find works.

Use 24" straight edge to make sure board is dead flat before fretting.

Seat the frets.

Use notched straight edge to make sure board is still flat after fretting.

Use 24" to gauge overall flatness of frets and use 6" straight edge to work smaller areas.

Once I level the frets I check it again with the 24".

First most fretboards have some arch in them with strings on. I would rather use a small triangle and check across several frets for low and high spots. So with strings on why bother with a full SE. Then if they are off (Strings) especially on a guitar you didn't build its more important to first level the FB then check the frets. again a small triangle will show high and low spots and the need to fix. Sighting down a straight neck is also another visual method of checking fret work.

Sure for a FB that is unfretted I use a straight edge to check the board but that wasn't the question. I do adjust the FB right after fretting using the Trussrod and SM slotted SE for any back bend or movement. I trust my sanding beam and marker method so I dont look back and recheck once the frets are flattened. Any slight angle with a straight edge will create false negatives in your examination anyway. Same with the sanding beam of course.

If I was doing a fret re crown a straight edge would be the last tool I would look for, this is assuming the FB is good and the frets are known to be funky. I not saying its useless I just think its not the greatest tool as FB's are never 100% level after its strung up nor should they be.

Remember there are 100 ways to do anything in guitar building so this is strictly my biased opinion IMO

[ihocky2]

Well, I thank you for your biased opinion.

[Helldunkel]

Well personaly I would never level an entire fretboard without taking all the string off.....

You want the entire surface to be leveled out first, then I put the strings on and tune it up and adjust the rod.

Been doing this for the past 15 years with great success and low action and its also the way I have learned how to do the job when I went to study guitar building...

I also mark the frets with a pencil during the job, this way I know where are the high and low spots.

But yeah like you say, we all have our own methods, does not mean that the others are wrong.