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He wasn't asking how to do it, but how much wood is taken away in the cut while retaining a good match.

Really, it depends on the piece of wood and how the grain is running. If it's nearly perfectly quartersawn, you can get away with a lot. The closer to flatsawn you get, the less leeway you have.

In any event, the trick is all in the setup of the bandsaw and the kerf of the blade. I have mine tweaked pretty close to dead vertical with a 1/2" blade. It takes out around 1/16" of material, then the planer takes off another 1/32"-1/16" from each side.

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Thanks guys. The reason I was asking is because I was given some green, figured 16/4 mahogany (flatsawn) that I want to bookmatch at 1.5" (I'll be putting a 1/4" veneer on top of it). Instead of waiting 4 years for the 4" thick piece to air dry I cut it into two 2" pieces to cut the drying time in half. But now I've exposed my bookmatched facings. In the event they don't dry properly and the boards warp, cup or bow, I'm worried I'll lose a nice bookmatch if I have to plan off too much in order to get the boards straight again. Would I have been better off keeping the piece at 16/4 and waiting for it to dry completely before opening it up?

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These guys who are in the business of selling highly figured, bookmatched tonewoods, are they doing anything differently than your amateur guitar builder when it comes to seasoning? I can't see them taking much risk in a crap-shoot when there's $$$ at stake.

generally the more professional ones are patient/ have a kiln for drying wood

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