MrMuckle Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 What's the most material you've removed between two pieces of wood and have still kept a nice bookmatch? What was the species? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 What's the most material you've removed between two pieces of wood and have still kept a nice bookmatch? What was the species? The only way to really do a bookmatch of 12" to 13", safely and without too much waste is with a bandsaw IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 He wasn't asking how to do it, but how much wood is taken away in the cut while retaining a good match. Really, it depends on the piece of wood and how the grain is running. If it's nearly perfectly quartersawn, you can get away with a lot. The closer to flatsawn you get, the less leeway you have. In any event, the trick is all in the setup of the bandsaw and the kerf of the blade. I have mine tweaked pretty close to dead vertical with a 1/2" blade. It takes out around 1/16" of material, then the planer takes off another 1/32"-1/16" from each side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMuckle Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 Thanks guys. The reason I was asking is because I was given some green, figured 16/4 mahogany (flatsawn) that I want to bookmatch at 1.5" (I'll be putting a 1/4" veneer on top of it). Instead of waiting 4 years for the 4" thick piece to air dry I cut it into two 2" pieces to cut the drying time in half. But now I've exposed my bookmatched facings. In the event they don't dry properly and the boards warp, cup or bow, I'm worried I'll lose a nice bookmatch if I have to plan off too much in order to get the boards straight again. Would I have been better off keeping the piece at 16/4 and waiting for it to dry completely before opening it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 That's really a crap-shoot. Even after the boards dry, you could split them and then they move. Don't forget that you'll lose a certain amount of area to shrinkage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMuckle Posted January 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 These guys who are in the business of selling highly figured, bookmatched tonewoods, are they doing anything differently than your amateur guitar builder when it comes to seasoning? I can't see them taking much risk in a crap-shoot when there's $$$ at stake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 These guys who are in the business of selling highly figured, bookmatched tonewoods, are they doing anything differently than your amateur guitar builder when it comes to seasoning? I can't see them taking much risk in a crap-shoot when there's $$$ at stake. generally the more professional ones are patient/ have a kiln for drying wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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