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Hi everybody, I'm new on this forum and as a self teached builder I have some questions if anybody can help me. I've built some scratch bodies in the past and also a couple of lap steels with great success and I'm trying to build my first complete guitar. The choosed model is an LP (sapele body, maple top and khaya, flat top). As the neck must have a 3 to 4º with the body, the usual is route the body with this angle and the neck tenon flat. The question is: Is the same to route the body flat and introduce the angle on the neck tennon? can I have any problem going this way? The reason for this is that I think it will be easier for me work this way.

Tanks to everyone in advance. This is an amazing forum.

P.D.: with this build I'm in the beginning stage, I'll keep you posted with the progress

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That's what I do to get my neck angles.

SR

Interesting.

I get the impression that doing the angle on the neck pocket is easier in the end. Done at an early stage of the project, when you still have a flat surface where to mount your pocket template, it's just a matter of angling the template accordingly.

Usually is what I do. Later on, only if I need a minor correction on the angle, I adjust the neck tenon.

But the truth is that as long as your angle is not too dramatic (only applicable to full neck width tenons, anyway), you should not have any problem with either approach.

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That's what I do to get my neck angles.

SR

Interesting.

I get the impression that doing the angle on the neck pocket is easier in the end. Done at an early stage of the project, when you still have a flat surface where to mount your pocket template, it's just a matter of angling the template accordingly.

Usually is what I do. Later on, only if I need a minor correction on the angle, I adjust the neck tenon.

But the truth is that as long as your angle is not too dramatic (only applicable to full neck width tenons, anyway), you should not have any problem with either approach.

Perhaps I should elaborate. So far all my builds have featured long tenons (10"-12"). These have a pocket routed into the body to a uniform depth--the same thickness as the tenon. The neck is set and the tenon is machined flush with the top surface of the body. Then the top is glued on. Putting the angle in the tenon seems the best way to achieve that construction.

The relevant point is the same as you made....it works just fine, and also like you said, it must be full width as well.

SR

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