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Posted

Well guys me and my brother made this today - Im not positive just how much use its going to be but I thought I would post it and let you guys look at it anyways. Enter your scale length, number of frets and required depth of scallop and it will work out the radius of a sanding block you will require for each fret. Ive not tried making a set yet but that is next weekends job. Enjoy :D

Scallopcalc

If you feel it is useful, feel free to make a link to it in reference sections on your websites, or whatever B)

Cya

Posted

its cool, but ultimately useless..... because you dont really need to know radius of each scallop etc....

sorry, but i dont see any use for it personally

:D

Roman

Posted

Yeah, scalloping is more elliptical (or parabolic) than circular. I don't know how helpful a radius would be. Did you factor in fret height in your calculations? What does "Fret Size (mm)" represent, fret spacing?

Posted

Hmm... looking again at the numbers generated, what advantage would having some radiused sanding blocks with only 0.3mm difference offer? Since the sanding is usually done by hand, I think a set of perhaps 5 or 6 different radii would be sufficient. Instead of individual radiused sanding blocks (or dowels) I'd like to see some sort of router jig :D.

Posted

Well It gave me a rough Idea of what kinda radia I would need for my scallop work. and Im going to make some sanding blocks soon.

Another reason for the writing of the PHP is that my brother needed some practice for his computing exam he has soon and he thought it would be a cool thing do to (after seeing me struggle somwhat scalloping my kramer)

The "fret size (mm)" is the distance size of that particular fret, for emample the fret size for the fifth fret would be the distance between the 4th and 5th frets.

Posted

I think it makes perfect sense to make the right radius block for each fret if you're planning on scalloping a lot of necks. It would give you quick easy way to get nice uniformly graduated scallops. The only thing to watch out for is that, unlike the upper frets where you can use a full circular dowel without touching the frets, the lower frets would have to have "dowels" that are cut off at the sides or else the dowels radius would go through the metal fret.

Posted

If you are planning on scalloping a lot of necks, I think it'd make more sense to design some sort of router jig. But if you go with the individual sanding blocks, I'd go one step further and design some sort of adjustable sliding sled/fence guide mechanism for the sanding blocks to ride in (between adjacent frets.) Hmm... does that make sense?

Plus, I still think scallops are more elliptical or parabolic than circular :D.

Posted
If you are planning on scalloping a lot of necks, I think it'd make more sense to design some sort of router jig. But if you go with the individual sanding blocks, I'd go one step further and design some sort of adjustable sliding sled/fence guide mechanism for the sanding blocks to ride in (between adjacent frets.) Hmm... does that make sense?

Plus, I still think scallops are more elliptical or parabolic than circular :D.

If you consider that you have both the fingerboard radius and the scallop radii going across each other, I think a routing jig would be a very complex thing to make.

But your suggestion of using some kind of fence or guide to avoid scratching the frets makes sense. When I scalloped mine, I held a small metal scraper against the side of a fret when I had to get close to it with my 1/2" round file.

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