Kcoogan Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 My second atempt at doing a build. Just got my kit and started dry fitting everthing together. Two things to over come. The neck fitting at the body is a little lose with about a 1/8 of an inch gap. So it has a little play from side to side. Any ideas on how to square it. I would have thought maybe to square it by measuring from the last fret to the bridge?? No matter I will end up with a gap to fill. The bridge and tail pieces aren't pre drilled so I need to do those first. Where can I find the distance for the bridge and tail piece holes. I will get some pictures up. The body is a great quilted top and bottom! I am doing this one green for a gift for someone. I will post photos along the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Withoutpics it's hard to give good advice. Would like to see some pics of the neck gap. My first thought would be to get the neck set then measure and drill holes. MK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Here is a shot. I can move the neck to tighten that up a little but I need to make sure it runs straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Did you do this? Or when you say kit, you literally mean someone else routed that and sold it to you with that gap?! If the latter, I'd call them up. That's ridiculous! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 is the neck a 21 or 22 fret? if 22 then when you move the neck outwards this should close the gap and put the join at the 17th fret which would be correct if I remember correctly (scratching head) Then you would need to make a filler block from the rear of the neck to the pickup cutout. This would be covered mostly by a pickup ring. By doing a burst finish on this it would most likely disappear completely. ONce the neck is set then you can measure from the nut and 12th fret to locate the bridge studs and bar studs. using the center line of the neck for perpendicular center reference of both. I agree with Chris as that is a sloppy routing job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 When I move the neck it closes some, How do i make sure heck is square? I could use a square against the body.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Assuming the pickup routes are square to the body then use the neck centerline to square to the pickup routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 I'll give that a try thanks. It's a 22 fret neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 The joint should be at the 16th fret so, no way that gap is going to close. As mentioned by Chris, call the supplier and try to work something out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piercefield Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 wow my freehand rotes are tighter than that... id be sending it back for a replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 The joint should be at the 16th fret so, no way that gap is going to close. As mentioned by Chris, call the supplier and try to work something out. Thanks I new the 17th didn't quite sound right. (DamnOld Age) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 I got it al clamped up at the 16th and it got tighter. I took it a part now but will post pics soon. Can I use super clue on this smaller space once it is glue in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 The joint should be at the 16th fret so, no way that gap is going to close. As mentioned by Chris, call the supplier and try to work something out. Thanks I new the 17th didn't quite sound right. (DamnOld Age) Ha,ha,....We're not getting any younger... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 I got it al clamped up at the 16th and it got tighter. I took it a part now but will post pics soon. Can I use super clue on this smaller space once it is glue in? If you're going that route, I'd advise you against Cyanoacrylate ( if that's what you meant), try to make a shim with a sliver of maple and use titebond or equivalent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) Thanks I got the body sanded and dyed. It's more of an emerald green than the picture shows, I think i might try to do a darker burst around the edges. Edited July 15, 2012 by Kcoogan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Here is the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) More photos to come. I need to figure out the color shift.... Edited July 15, 2012 by Kcoogan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 looking good, try to feather that burst a little bit more and you're golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 yeah that looks amazing! Just add a deeper black. Then use a clean wet rag and blend the black into the green and burst it that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levi79 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 That looks pretty tasty dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Okay so I added more black for the burst. It looks smoother when wet than in the photos. I need to scrape the bindings. Do I spray the sand and seal over the bindings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 dang thats looking nice its getting blended well now too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 I spray over my bindings. I think most people do. Otherwise as shrinkage sets in with the drying process the clear will move away from the binding & leav problem areas. Lookin good so far. green quilt is a personal fave of mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 So got the neck glued up and the gap closed pretty good. Still not sure how to fill. Some people as saying to use epoxy or CA. Some where I say to just use wood glue. So here's the question: when I clear over the filler will it blend with the clear or will you be able to see the fill line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kcoogan Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 (edited) I put the decals on the headstock...before I sprayed the sand and seal...Do I need to remove them before I spray??? It's deft lacquer sealer.... Edited July 22, 2012 by Kcoogan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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