MP63 Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 I know this may sound like such a basic question, but how does one find the right location for the Tune-O-Matic bridge studs? I know the bridge is 2x from the nut to the 12th, but it needs compensation. How much? Do I measure from the first bridge saddle or the third saddle, etc.? What is the formula for adding the little extra when drilling the bridge studs? Once it drilled, there is no turning back. Thanks for any help. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightninMike Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 Here's a little known but helpful tool. Head on over to stewmac.com, and go to the free information link. Then to calculators, and the fret calculator:http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator/ Enter your scale (and the number of frets, but that doesn't matter for this use) and it will tell you exactly where to place your bridge, based on a number of available bridge types. For Tune-o-matic style bridges they list: 'ABR-1' Tune-o-matic Bridges Nashville Tune-o-matic Bridge Gotoh Tune-o-matic Bridge with Standard Posts Gotoh Tune-o-matic Bridge with Studs/Bushings Schaller Roller Bridge L.R. Baggs T-Bridge Locking Roller Bridge Gotoh 510 Bridge & Tailpiece For an example, I typed in 24.75" for the scale, and scale, and it calculated: 24.811" (?0.030") from nut to center of treble-side post. Mount bass-side post 1/16"-1/8" further from the nut. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP63 Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 Awesome, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 What LightninMike said. I draw the saddle witness point line on my body after working it out and place bridges manually based on how far forward the saddles can sit as opposed to locating the bridge posts off that line. Usually this already drops the bridge back a little further by about 4mm (just over 1/8"?) plus I add a little more on the bass side exactly as LightninMike says. My rationale is that you never need to adjust saddles forward from the calculated witness point so ramming them all forward ensures I have the maximum range of adjustment available out of whatever bridge. Especially ABR-1s! LightninMike - does the Stewmac calculator add in the offset I just described? It sounds like this is what it is doing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightninMike Posted May 3, 2013 Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 If you click on the link, it walks you right through it.... very easy and simple... depending on the bridge type, it gives the specifics to that style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 3, 2013 Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 Was on the mobile (like now) so didn't! Sounds very comprehensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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