oscarvan Posted July 3, 2019 Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 (edited) Greetings, another question. Gluing the bridge it needs to be clamped. I have basically seen two methods. One or more large C-clamps through the sound hole either to blocks or something like this: https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Bridges/StewMac_Bridge_Clamp_Caul.html The other scenario are these https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Bridge-Guitars-Accessory-Luthier/dp/B07PNKQ763/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=guitar+bridge+clamp&qid=1562193992&s=gateway&sr=8-4 which pull through the E/E string holes and have the adjustments on the end for even pressure. No clamps through the sound hole.... Interestingly these are nowhere to be seen on the Stewmac website.... Thoughts? Thanks. Edited July 3, 2019 by oscarvan format Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted July 4, 2019 Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 The one and only time I glued an acoustic bridge I just used three F-clamps with enough throat capacity to reach from across the soundhole. Some rubber padding on the clamping faces is enough to keep things from getting damaged. You can always use F-clamps to secure all sorts of things that need gluing or holding down. A specialised clamping system for an acoustic bridge can only do one thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted July 4, 2019 Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 The deep reach C clamps are the traditional way to do it and with three of those you can apply even pressure to the bridge. An adjustable block is nice, however for one time use you can use a block of wood and some wedges as well to even the pressure. If you see a small rim of squeeze-out all around you'll know the gluing is done well. Wipe the excess off while wet! Some padding like leather or rubber is good for protecting the bridge as @curtisa said. Most importantly make sure that there's no finish under the bridge since the glue won't stick to the lacquer and further, there'd be a gap between the bridge and the top, filled with glue. That's the main cause for loose bridges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscarvan Posted July 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 Thank you for your responses. It appears that other than buying a special tool versus multi purpose clamps there is no pro or con either way. And yes, I am aware of the wood-to-wood requirement.... Also plan on using a removable glue, probably hide glue, so I can take it off in the future if needed. For the life of me can't understand people using epoxy here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted July 4, 2019 Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 31 minutes ago, oscarvan said: Also plan on using a removable glue, probably hide glue, so I can take it off in the future if needed. For the life of me can't understand people using epoxy here. Titebond works just as well. It takes a tad longer to break with heat than hide glue but it's a lot less messy. That's what I've learned from Jerry Rosa who has been fixing and building stringed instruments as a profession since early eighties or so. In his opinion Stradivari et al. used the best glues available at their time so with that logic they'd use Titebond now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscarvan Posted July 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 It's Titebond hide glue...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted July 4, 2019 Report Share Posted July 4, 2019 3 hours ago, oscarvan said: It's Titebond hide glue...... Yep, the liquid one. I know about that but have never needed it or met anyone who has used it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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