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Everything posted by curtisa

  1. Can't be done with that kind of switch unfortunately. You really need the specified switch shown in the first diagram (ie, an ON-OFF-ON configuration)
  2. I couldn't say one way or the other whether the electrolysis process would have any impact on the magnetism of the pickup components. A magnet may be de-magnetised by applying an alternating current through it, but your 12V battery charger and electrolysis process is DC. If you can guarantee that the magnet is electrically isolated from the pickup (or at least arrange the two electrodes such that the current gets no opportunity to pass through the magnet) before it gets dunked maybe you'd eliminate the possibility that the electrolysis process could strengthen or reverse the polarity of the ma
  3. I'd be more concerned about dunking them in a saline solution for a couple of hours and allowing all that electrolysis mess to get anywhere near the windings. I reckon you're better off removing the covers and performing the etching process just on those parts.
  4. Yes - in a sub-article on the same website Liutaio mentions that while the tension doesn't change if the length beyond the nut/saddles increases, the 'stretchiness' of the string may change, which may give rise to the perception that the feel of the string becomes more elastic. He mentions a study done by Bob Benedetto where he constructed several 'necks' of varying scale lengths and overall string lengths, but the results indicated that most people couldn't feel any perceptible difference between the strings with long overhangs and the strings with short overhangs. I suppose if you had a
  5. That's not actually correct. String tension has nothing to do with the overall length of the string. The only things that affect string tension are the mass of the string (gauge), the vibrating length (scale length) and the pitch it is tuned to. Any additional length behind the nut or saddles plays no part in the string tension for a given pitch. If you strung two Strats with the same gauge strings tuned to the same pitches and one neck had a reverse headstock, the tensions of each string would be identical. You can read more than you care to know about the subject here.
  6. What about if instead of making the neck removeable you make it such that it can swivel around on the tongue that it attaches to on the body? You'd need to redesign your body a little to make room for the neck to fold over onto the bass-side shoulder, but it would save you having to come up with a method of screwing/unscrewing the neck to the body. All you'd need is some kind of pin to insert through the body into the rear of the neck heel so that it wouldn't swing left or right once it was in the 'playing' position.
  7. Based on your description it seems you're needing to wire it up as per the SPC installation instructions shown here: https://www.emgpickups.com/pub/media/Mageants/s/p/spc_rpc_0230-0106rb.pdf Have a look at page 4, titled '3 Pickup Guitars using a selection switch'. It shows a master volume, tone and SPC connection diagram.
  8. It's a juicing machine being pushed into a glass of water. Isn't it obvious?
  9. I never got that from him. The impression I got when presented those tough questions was more that he didn't have an answer or couldn't articulate his point beyond his initial pre-prepared statement that kicked the conversation off in the first place. Edit: just realised you were talking about Biden rather than Trump. My impression of him is the same - on a basic level it's quite refreshing to finally have someone in his position not always feel the need to weigh in and continually add fuel to the fire.
  10. It's probably a good reason why he's not exercised his right to do so, although our infection rate already being so much lower makes managing socially-distanced polling venues much more practical. No doubt he'd be keenly aware of how it would appear to the public to call an election during a pandemic, even if the actual risks of doing so could be safely managed. We don't have online voting yet, but there's probably never been a better reason to make it happen now. Once vaccines start rolling out later this month I'm sure Morrison will be keen to try his hand and push for an election as soon as
  11. If they're dual-citizens it may be less that they're being refused entry, and more that they cannot access the flights to come back in the first place. Returning Australian residents being unable to secure flights or being bumped from their seats is a hot issue here at the moment, with a lot of ex-pat Australians complaining that our government aren't doing enough to allow them to come home. While we are imposing a cap on the number of international arrivals there are other factors at play, such as many transiting countries where these flights would normally pass through refusing to accept arr
  12. Sometimes it's easy to forget that elections can be won by simply being 'not the other person'. When Boris took over from May I don't recall him being labelled as anything other than a bit of a gaffe-prone twat, but when he was up against Corbyn during the election the impression we got from over here was that Corbyn had no chance whatsoever of beating Johnson because he simply wasn't liked enough by the voting public. Similar situations have happened here in Australia on multiple occasions too. John Hewson famously lost what was dubbed 'the un-losable election' against Paul Keating back
  13. Only just caught up with this. Thanks for sharing, really nice to see and hear your instruments being used to create such beautiful music. Two thumbs up Oh, and tell Matt he's a showoff ...And you want your guitars back...
  14. You need to be in the 'Member' group, which will automatically occur once your post count exceeds 25.
  15. Probably more likely that the body and neck are 'real' timber and the top is an MDF laminate applied to the body. There seems to be photographic evidence to suggest that Epiphone have been known to do it in the past: https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/epiphone-pauls-mdf-tops.515891/ There will be a neck joint in there, but in true LP fashion it will probably be glued in. Although I do note that in your photos at the top of this thread that there doesn't appear to be much of an Epiphone logo on the headstock, and the fret markers are unlike anything I've seen on
  16. Pretty sure @ScottR used a Hannes on one of his masterpieces. Perhaps me hollering his name in here will get his attention
  17. I think a covid-safe fist bump needs to be directed towards @komodo for taking out Guitar of the Year 2020. Well done, buddy
  18. I'm clearly not across the US/Aus vernacular differences! Sink outlet? Drain? Water escapey thingy? I have a feeling we're heading towards classic ProjectGuitar thread derailment territory...
  19. Ah. Gotcha. That extra flute should i(n theory) allow an extra 33% more chips to be ejected for a given speed compared to the equivalent 2-flute cutter. The idea being that you should be able to increase your feedrate by the same factor and not cause any more stress on the bit. I'd still be cautious on going all the way up to 45IPM, but that's just me. Cross-border differences in terminology maybe? Stepdown I would equate to the cutter moving down into the work piece in increments (eg stepping down the staircase). Stepover I'd consider the bit stepping over it's previous path to
  20. Had a quick look at my last job at it seems I used 0.3mm stepdowns between each pass, no ramps, plunge at 200mm/min, feed at 400mm/min, 24k RPM. In imperial land that equates to 0.0118" stepdown, 7.9IPM plunge, 15.7IPM feed. I was getting chips instead of dust, so it must have been within the 'zone' of correct feedrate at the time. Ramping would certainly ease the bit into the cut a bit more, but I'm taking such small nibbles at conservative feedrates I'm not experiencing any issues with the values I'm using. Single width slots are notoriously hard on the cutter though, so it pays to be gentle
  21. To-may-to. To-mah-to. What's a decimal point between friends? That's actually not as silly as it sounds. You might struggle to cut them cleanly, but if any of your broken bits have snapped close to the shoulder where they start tapering up to meet the shank you might be able to press them in to service long enough to experiment with. I've used broken 0.4mm bits to complete engraving jobs in plastic where I just needed to complete the job rather than hold things up while I wait for new bits to arrive.
  22. I think your bits are too long and spindly for that kind of work. In the photo you have above it looks like there's a good 0.5" of flute length exposed below the shank of the bit. It won't take much to break such tiny bits with that much flute sticking out. The ones I'm using (mentioned in your other thread) only have a flute length of about 3mm. The shorter the effective cutting length the stronger the bit will be. @MiKro's suggestion about the depth of cut is also worth noting. Your original at 0.3" is 25% larger than the diameter of the bit, and will be pretty hard to sustain for long witho
  23. I was aware there were differences, but I'm also aware that there are the occasional oddballs that don't quite fit the template. The Korina V near the bottom of this page makes an interesting example (assuming it isn't a forgery), as it has the short shoulders of the 58 but the narrow crotch as displayed in your plans. Again, I don't think there's anything particularly untoward in Gen One's plan service, other than the drawings offered are mostly similar enough that you can construct something that looks like a V. Maybe for a purist the slightly loose interpretation of some of the distinc
  24. Any possibility your printer is printing them out a scale other than 1:1? Could errors in the print be skewing the way the actual printed drawing is appearing? In his defence, I don't hink he is offering a definitve plan service that will yield a perfectly accurate design for a specific guitar. The wording on the Guitar Plan Reference page at his wesite states (emphasis mine): Does the Flying V plan even indicate it's based on a particular model from a specfic year? Even the original makers of instruments were known to change specs and measurements at their leisure, so o
  25. The ABM dimensional drawing tells you more: https://abm-guitarpartsshop.com/media/products/7010c_Dimensions_7010.pdf There's 1.95mm from the bottom to the opening where the string exits towards the nut. You need some downward force on the nut for each string to seat properly in their respective slots, so the string clamps need to be at least this distance (plus a bit more) below the bottom of the nut slot. Say you're using frets with a 1mm high crown, and your nut slot is cut about the same above the surface of the fretboard, sinking the string lock 1mm deep into the fretboard w
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