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BC Rich Mockingbird inspired Through Neck


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Truss rod arrived. Marked out the position and chiselled around the edges.

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Then on with the chiselling...

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Testing in place. Almost there, just a bit more.

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And it's in. Nice tight fit and access slot almost finished.

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Just need to tidy the edges and finish the access slot.

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You should make a short video/picture tutorial about how to carve simple slots with inexpensive hand tools!

Every time I see something like that done I can't help wondering how helpless and uninventive many budding builders are. Every single task requires a routing template made by someone else, preferably computer aided for exact accuracy - which then is ruined by poor power tool skills... A luthier doesn't need a ton of templates, they need a basic skill set with tools like pencils, rulers, chisels...

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3 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

You should make a short video/picture tutorial about how to carve simple slots with inexpensive hand tools!

Whilst I appreciate the sentiment, and agree it would be helpful for people, there are many more talented people than I.

Until last week I had never used a wood plane before (and to be brutally honest, don't even know if I have set it up correctly 🤣, but it did the job! ). Wood chisels had only been used for basic joinery tasks until around two years ago. I look at what ScottR does in total amazement.

 

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3 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Every time I see something like that done I can't help wondering how helpless and uninventive many budding builders are. Every single task requires a routing template made by someone else, preferably computer aided for exact accuracy - which then is ruined by poor power tool skills... A luthier doesn't need a ton of templates, they need a basic skill set with tools like pencils, rulers, chisels...

So true - with good sharp hand tools and the old rule of "measure twice, cut once" you can make whatever you want. Maybe not as fast as you _potentially_ could with power tools but there's also so much more potential to wreck your workpiece!

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1 hour ago, Professor Woozle said:

with good sharp hand tools and the old rule of "measure twice, cut once" you can make whatever you want.

That is my way of looking at it, may take me longer, but so long as my measurements are correct and I take time and care it all works out. Patience is a virtue 😉

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1 hour ago, Professor Woozle said:

So true - with good sharp hand tools and the old rule of "measure twice, cut once" you can make whatever you want.

I like good hand tools as much as anyone but you can’t do much with even the best tool if it isn’t sharp. As a matter of fact you can get away with a lesser tool if you know how to sharpen it properly. And in many cases the lesser ones are made of softer materials and thus easier to sharpen. Obviously you need to sharpen them more often. I’d almost say sharpening is the most important skill with the hand tools.

Nice build coming up btw :) 

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9 hours ago, Professor Woozle said:

Maybe not as fast as you _potentially_ could with power tools but there's also so much more potential to wreck your workpiece!

 

8 hours ago, JGTay said:

may take me longer, but so long as my measurements are correct and I take time and care it all works out.

Simple tasks like a straight groove may not take any longer. Agreed, with a router you can carve a truss rod channel in a couple of minutes, three or four shallow passes will take care of that.

But. It's not that straightforward. First you'd have to fetch the router, unwrap the cord, find the wrench, find the fence or collet if you're using a template which is missing, adjust the fence or template, double check, make a shallow test pass, readjust, connect the vacuum if applicable, find your earmuffs, dust mask and glasses, do the 2 minute job, wait until the dust settles, wrap the cord around the router, put the bits, wrenches, templates etc. to their places, vacuum the entire space,

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Next on the list was flattening the wings to the same thickness as the through neck. I put some pins in the wings, lined them up and clamped it all together. After a short while sanding they were level.

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Sanded up to 240 grit and cleaned with white spirit

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Then it was out with the chisels and I set about doing a sunken area for the wraparound bridge. This is similar to something I did on the Def Robot Flying V a couple of years ago, It means I don't have to do a neck angle, which on a through neck can be a pain and makes it easy to get the string height correct.

After a lot of chisel work and small amount of sanding it was ready for testing with the bridge.

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And testing the string height with a spare piece of fretboard (which isn't big enough for this project, waiting on the fretboard wood to arrive)

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There is a small drop towards the bridge, which allows for plenty of adjustment. 

Testing with pickup rings

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Plenty more sanding to be done, but that will wait until the wings are glued in place.

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19 minutes ago, JGTay said:

I don't have to do a neck angle, which on a through neck can be a pain and makes it easy to get the string height correct.

Yet another way to skin the cat! :thumb:

I've done it the hard way and the even harder way and it's doable. But your method both adds an interesting detail on the top and keeps the lines straight - the latter obviously becoming hidden under the fretboard but we know it's there!

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7 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

But your method both adds an interesting detail on the top and keeps the lines straight

Thanks Bizman. The other benefit is that the pickups can stay nice and low, I don't really like it when they are stuck up 1/2 inch or more from the body. 🤣

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1 minute ago, JGTay said:

the pickups can stay nice and low

That's a valid point too! Now that you mentioned it, I don't like it either. On my Ibanez FG100 they're pretty high. Seems to be common with other jazzy boxes.

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While I am waiting on delivery of the fretboard wood, I decided to get on with the sanding of the sunken area and get it as close to the finished shape as possible.

After a few hours sanding up through the grades and getting everything straightened up, I tested it with the bridge in position.

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And then measured out the positions, drilled for the posts and got it all tested in place

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Hopefully the wood arrives soon, there isn't much more I can do at the moment until the fretboard is in place. 

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Woo! A lovely lively piece of wood!

Isn't it funny how back in the day black ebony was the only acceptable choice for quality instruments, followed by dark rosewood? And now, look what we have! All these wonderful creations of Mother Nature!

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4 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Woo! A lovely lively piece of wood!

Isn't it funny how back in the day black ebony was the only acceptable choice for quality instruments, followed by dark rosewood?

It is such a nice piece of wood, love the figuring. Apparently it is in-between rosewood and ebony for hardness. Haven't used it before, but looking forward to seeing it polished up. 😁

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Got the 12" radius done up to 240 grit (will do finer grits after the fretboard markers are done) and then cut the fret slots.

Measured again to make sure it was in the correct place, then lined up and pins put in place to stop it moving before the gluing starts.

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Then on with the glue and clamped in place. Think it is getting time to replace my smaller clamps, they are bending out of shape...

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Then it was on with getting it close to shape, leaving a small amount of excess.

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And tested back in place, all measurements correct. :) Also saved some sanding dust for when I am doing the fretboard markers.

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Have started doing the neck profile, just a rough shape until Dan brings round one of his guitars with his favourite neck shape. He said it is a flat C or maybe D shape and I have got it to a similar type shape with room for adjustment.

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I can adjust it from here when I see the profile.

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The abalone for the fretboard markers has arrived, so that is the next job on the list, then sand it to a nice finish and I can then get the frets in.

 

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Made a start on the markers.

First one in and marked for the second.

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Went inside the pencil marks with a Stanley knife, then around the marks with a chisel and started taking out the wood.

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Once deep enough it was glued in.

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A few marks around the edges, but they will go when I sand back. Then marked out for the third one and again went around the edges with a chisel.

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Had to stop there as it was time to make dinner, but back on it hopefully in the morning.

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Things never go to plan... had to go round to the father in laws this morning to fit a new concertina door, but managed to get back on with the fretboard inlays this afternoon. Just waiting on the glue to dry fully on the 24th fret inlays and then I can sand them level and get on with the radius sanding up through the levels.

Cleaned up with white spirit after sanding all the others level.

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That looks great! Geometrical shapes are the most difficult ones to get consistent - except of course a perfectly round dot and even those can be misaligned. The human eye seems to notice the slightest angle in squares or diamonds. Your work looks like there's nothing to be ashamed of.

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Had a very busy week doing roof repairs, electrical work and plastering, but managed to get some time at home for a few hours this morning and got on with shaping the neck to how Dan wants it and made some more progress on the volute.

Still got to do some more on the heel and a bit more shaping of the volute, as well as sanding up through the grades, but happy with progress with the time permitted.

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Will have to see how I get on time wise over the next week as I have a big plastering job to get started and will not get much time at home.

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Managed to get some time yesterday and today to get some more done.

Neck shape finished, volute finished and heel shape nearly done.

I then masked off the fretboard and got on with the frets.

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After levelling, crowning and buffing, the tape doing it's job.

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And then after removing the tape.

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The heel shape, which may change slightly once the body is glued on.

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Volute shape completed.

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Next job is the gluing up of the body when I get a chance.

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