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so I accomplished a LOT today.... by a LOT I mean I cleaned my garage!


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21 minutes ago, RVA said:

I am too lazy to even dirty mine today! But in my defense, I did 5 hours of office time earlier 

lol... i didn't even mention it's 114 in az today!!  I'm basically a hero.  gonna try to do some actual work tomorrow!!

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26 minutes ago, RVA said:

Is that a Hercules miter saw? If so, do you like it?

it is kobalt... honestly of all the sliding miters I think the metabu is the one I would buy if I was gonna spend more.  A while back I was thinking I might make a fret slotting setup and went to look at dewalt/metabu but even the $600 saws have a lot of movement left/right.  This was b4 i got into cnc.  I bought the kobalt on craigslist shortly thereafter cause I just needed something for those quick cuts.  it is satisfactory.  about as accurate as any miter saw.

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1 hour ago, RVA said:

Thanks. Because of your previous advice in this regard, I will be making my scarf joint jig for my table saw, as pathetic as it is 

right on.  I'll prob build that jig tomorrow... will take some pics.  

 

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15 minutes ago, RVA said:

This guy makes and uses one.

 

 

yes the guy from projectelectric guitar facebook group.

btw there are some jigs for doing this all via a drum sander as well in case that suits you better.  

for me... I am hoping to completely avoid the sanding part.  

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so... he uses some 1/4" masonite or mdf for the base... now on the one hand that's pretty flimsy stuff.  on the other... A) it gives the wood a place to site and B ) doesn't raise it up any... and since typical 10" saw blade is going to be running out of room real quick on 3" stock... that's a good thing.  

in my design... the wood is just going to sit "next to" the fence.  so it should be sitting flush with the top of the saw table.  My jig is going to have a 3/4" base of quality baltic birch plywood.  mine is fairly elaborate... but at heart it's just a simple flat piece, then a fence, then some supports keeping the fence at 90deg.

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26 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

yes the guy from projectelectric guitar facebook group.

btw there are some jigs for doing this all via a drum sander as well in case that suits you better.  

for me... I am hoping to completely avoid the sanding part.  

You mean cut the perfect scarf joint on the table saw that needs no sanding? What blade would you use? 

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1 minute ago, RVA said:

You mean cut the perfect scarf joint on the table saw that needs no sanding? What blade would you use? 

well yes... I did my body joins that way.  this relies heavily on the zero play rail and I use an infinity super general blade in the tablesaw.  

below is a photo - not glued up yet... just sitting next to each other.  right off the table saw... no sanding.

IMG_2791.thumb.JPG.d10b0cdf63419387dfc20ed25bc54689.JPG

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2 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

btw... before when I said metabu I meant makita.  look at this design: 

Z2sM5vpcpEx_.JPG

it backs right up to the wall so no need to keep it out 10" from the wall... and it's extremely stable... that said $900.

I was going to buy that exact table saw. I have it in a cart right now. Great because it has no need for rear clearance.

Issues: First: the rails have been known to be off from each other and in need of a hard adjustment (loosen an Allen and pry with a a 2x4) . I called Makita about this to see if it persisted and they told me that it was due to shipping mishandling. Second issue...shipping mishandling. The boxes have been known to come destroyed and the saw damaged. You must reply on the vendor to provide good secondary packaging (unlikely if also looking for free shipping).  Third issue, the detent plate wears - this would probably not be an issue for me because it would not get enough use. Fourth: price. Normally $739, on sale for $ 639 and with tax, $ 700 to my door.

 

This does everything the Makita does - except it needs rear clearance. It is very well rated and about 1/2 the price. It is a Dewalt 780 ripoff made by Harbor Freight 

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-dual-bevel-sliding-compound-miter-saw-with-precision-led-shadow-guide-63978.html

 

 

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7 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

zero play rail and I use an infinity super general blade in the tablesaw.  

Nice work!

 

I bought one of those zero play rails at your suggestion (thanks again!). It will be used for this jig.

 

So that Infinity blade has 40 teeth (as per a quick google search)? I would have thought a higher tooth count would be needed (but I don't know that much!).

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53 minutes ago, RVA said:

I was going to buy that exact table saw. I have it in a cart right now. Great because it has no need for rear clearance.

Issues: First: the rails have been known to be off from each other and in need of a hard adjustment (loosen an Allen and pry with a a 2x4) . I called Makita about this to see if it persisted and they told me that it was due to shipping mishandling. Second issue...shipping mishandling. The boxes have been known to come destroyed and the saw damaged. You must reply on the vendor to provide good secondary packaging (unlikely if also looking for free shipping).  Third issue, the detent plate wears - this would probably not be an issue for me because it would not get enough use. Fourth: price. Normally $739, on sale for $ 639 and with tax, $ 700 to my door.

 

This does everything the Makita does - except it needs rear clearance. It is very well rated and about 1/2 the price. It is a Dewalt 780 ripoff made by Harbor Freight 

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-dual-bevel-sliding-compound-miter-saw-with-precision-led-shadow-guide-63978.html

 

 

well... for the record... the thing about the makita that makes it great is the more vertical placement of those rails... at least I think that's why that one is more stable.  honestly this would only be an issue if you are trying to get the precision needed for fret slots... and even then a radial arm saw would really be a better tool and folks are just giving those away on craigslist/etc.  if you aren't using it for that... I don't think I'd spend the extra money just for the nice feature of not needing spacing from the wall (that IS a nice feature!).  i haven't seen the hercules myself but all of the ones with that design (side by side rails) had a lot of side to side play.  again... pretty much anything will do fine for the majority of what I'd use it for (quickly cutting a square edge or 45 or 22.5.  

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54 minutes ago, RVA said:

Nice work!

 

I bought one of those zero play rails at your suggestion (thanks again!). It will be used for this jig.

 

So that Infinity blade has 40 teeth (as per a quick google search)? I would have thought a higher tooth count would be needed (but I don't know that much!).

yes... it's a finish cut blade.  they say you can do just about anything with it (hence the "general") but I will cut my scarf on the bandsaw first and just trim it on the table saw.  I put that blade on just to take 1/64+- off of something.  I actually also have a glue join rip blade from freud/diablo and it will def do a glue up worthy joint as well... and is 25 tooth and rips through stuff like butter... but I have a sawstop and I'm told those chip breaker teeth that follow the cut teeth can cause the saw stop mechanism to "no worky".  since I'm absolutely paranoid about tablesaws... I bought the super general.  again... I think just about any really quality saw blade would do a glue ready join using that zero play rail.  if you adjust it just right... zero play!

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Was looking on facebook for a used toolbox... and man I wish this guy was closer to me cause I'd just really like to meet him:

"Tool box. Holds your tools. organizes your tools. Drawers slide out so you can see how organized you put your tools away and you can easily find where they are. 100% buy for any dude that does man stuff. If you see this and think its not for you, you're probably not a man, dude. "

just wanted to share cause it cracked me up!

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Just now, RVA said:

Ok, so I went to Harbor Freight today and checked out the Hercules 12" miter saw. It was rock solid even when extended and tilted. Normally $399, and on sale for $339 until 6/19. Not bad at all

sounds like a winner.

 

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for the record I'm working on this jig today... but it's 113deg in my city and that probably means 120 in my garage.  can't run my garage ac and my cnc at sm time so... 10 min at a time is about all I'm good for.  probably have heat stroke already!  anywho... enough of my complaining... onward to results!

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pretty anti climactic... but this is my jig.  still need to cut some handles... will do that out of scrap hardwood later in the week... but this is the jist... just some rabbets and a fence and some holes that would allow a 10 deg or 14 degree placement of the zero play rail.  

image.thumb.jpeg.70be30c182f562f2f1db7db8ed2a4cc4.jpeg

 

image.thumb.jpeg.0b5ee8815e1bf2cb02b8b0e91ee621c3.jpeg

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5 minutes ago, RVA said:

Looking forward to seeing the rest. I am too green to have any good ideas of my.  You seem to have plenty of them. Please bear in mind that imitation is the purest form of flattery!

 

 

flattery... hehe, I say that all the time.  honestly my jig is a bit more complicated (rabbets) only because I have cnc so... not much extra effort.  You could accomplish about the sm just cutting some 45s on a chop saw and using the face of the wood.  Getting the perfect 90deg on the fence, and the perfect 10/14 deg is really the only crucial parts.

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