Phil Mailloux Posted April 8, 2004 Report Posted April 8, 2004 The LMII website doesn't offer much information about their alcohol based dyes besides the fact that 1/2 an ounce will make 1 to 2 quarts of solution. That's fine but I have no idea whatsoever what those measurements are. I thought I worked it out and tried mixing 5 grams of dye into 100ml of denatured alcohol but after shaking it up like hell and letting it sit for 45 minutes, I still get a hell of a lot of deposit at the bottom of the jars (5 different colors mixed in 5 jars). Ok, so I tried dyeing a piece of scrap maple with a rag, I tried the red, amber and yellow colors on different spots. I can barely see what I dyed, it just looks like dirty/lightly shaded colors. At this rate I would assume I would have to do 10-20 layers of dye before I get a proper dyed color. Is this normal? Anybody got experience with LMII alcohol based dyes and want to share some tips? Anybody knows what the proper mixing ratio is in metric ? Quote
Scott Rosenberger Posted April 8, 2004 Report Posted April 8, 2004 I mix all of my dyes very strong except for the black. I't all really comes down to trial and error as far as I'm concerned Quote
Phil Mailloux Posted April 8, 2004 Author Report Posted April 8, 2004 what's very strong? Could you tell me how much dye to alcohol ratio? Quote
Scott Rosenberger Posted April 8, 2004 Report Posted April 8, 2004 I have no idea. I just keep putting it and testing it until I get the strength I want Quote
Drak Posted April 8, 2004 Report Posted April 8, 2004 I have had the same problem with alcohol-based powders before. That's why I always use Solar Lux alcohol based anilyne dyes now. They're already in liquid form. If you read the directions carefully, I wouldn't be surprised if it states somewhere in there to also add water along with the alcohol for your powders. Solar Lux dyes rule. I still mix my water based powders w/ water, but not the alcohol based ones, I got tired of experiencing exactly what your experiencing. And when you're putting them in a gun to shoot, you can't have any of those particles, they'll block the tip of the nozzle, so I stopped using them, and my water-based dyes don't do that. Use Solar Lux and be happy. Quote
Morben Guitars Posted April 9, 2004 Report Posted April 9, 2004 Phil, I use Transtint Alcohol powdered dyes. I'm sure they are similiar to the LMII dyes. I typically use a Mason Jar to mix the power into, and have found that 1/4 of the small bottle of powder is necessary. I fill the jar 3/4 of the way full. After I mix it in, I need to let it sit overnight to properly dissolve. Then I strain it through a cheep paper paint strainer to remove any small particles. In my experience, I don't like the look of dying the wood directly. Wood can absorb the dye differently on different spots - leading to a "patchey" finish. I have found the best results come from first sealing the guitar with a sanding sealer - sanding flat - then applying the dye to the sealer. Goes on very smooth and evenly. I put a tutorial up a few weeks ago detailing this process for a sunburst guitar. Hope that helps! -Ben Quote
GuitarMaestro Posted April 11, 2004 Report Posted April 11, 2004 1 to 2 quarts = 1 to 2 liters Nonsense Quote
Devon Headen Posted April 12, 2004 Report Posted April 12, 2004 1 to 2 quarts = 1 to 2 liters Nonsense "1 liters = 1.0566882 US quarts" --Google Quote
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