lovekraft Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 Why does the preamp section prevent loading? Is it because of the 1Mohm at the input?Basically, yes - any preamp (or buffer) with a fairly high input impedance will eliminate most of the extra load on the pickup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted November 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2005 Got an Email from Argentina...Welcome Lucas My answer could be of interest or encouragement so I might as well post it here... First...here's a pic of my strat hi PSW! Iñm new, and registered s i could send you an email. I have a question for you: How is the complete process, to make mi stratocaster have a sustainer..some easy way..to do it I saw your prototype strat.. Can you still use the neck pickup ? Hi there Lucas Well, the strat is a little difficult because there are three pickups. Mine works fine but in the end needed a complicated switch (4pdt) to switch it on and off. Hardly anyone seems to have actually done a full install of the system though many have got it to work. It's not a hard project but you have to find room for the circuit and battery...and you will have to get to the battery! There could be enough room in a strat in the tremolo cavity if you can live with just 2 springs. My strat has a separate cavity under the jack socket. You could use one of the tone controls as the sensitivity control with a simple rewire. As for the neck pickup...mine works fine (when the sustainer is not operating) but you will need to modify it. By making a Pickup/driver like mine you are using the existing magnet in the pickup so that's something less to worry about. The pickup is already there so the space and mounting issues are solved...so that's good! Each pickup is different. A pickup with staggered poles (not flat across the top) is going to be tricky. I'm not sure if there is an "easy way"...it really isn't that hard to do, now that it's been done. What needs to be done is to: >>>Build the circuit...fetzer/ruby from the tutorial in the tech section is fine Mike's Sustainer Tutorial Thread >>>Build the Driver...take the cover from the pickup, add some steel 3mm high, a bobbin top, and wind 8 ohms of 0.2mm wire. >>>Install the pickup, circuit, battery and wire up to bypass pickups when circuit is switched on and to select bridge pickup only! Here's a picture of my strats driver/pickup... Anyway...that's the short version of my strat set up...feel free to join in on this thread...thanks for the mail... If people have missed it, you may be interested in what it sounds like...Here's a clip of my strat... Beckistan pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucasbeat Posted November 24, 2005 Report Share Posted November 24, 2005 Pete! YThanks a lot for your help! I´m studying the possibility of adding this to my stratocaster. I don´t understand the thing about the driver.. I know i must do a 8 ohm coil, but do i have to rewind or disassemble mi pickup? thanks a lot again regards, LUCAS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mathleflan Posted November 24, 2005 Report Share Posted November 24, 2005 Hi, I'm deseparated, I lost my steel core , I have to find an other... one thing I Find important. a general multimeter cannot give a real value with small ohm values. I mean when I test a 1 ohm resistor with my multimeter, I have 1.5 ohm and not 1, so We have to consider a certain tolerance to acceed to 8 ohm . For my part, the driver must give 12 ohm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted November 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2005 mathleflan For my part, the driver must give 12 ohm... Seems a big difference to me, multimeters aren't usually that far off. Should work still but would be slower and less efficient...I'm assuming. Why not try 7-9 ohm, 12 is a lot more wire and size really! I don´t understand the thing about the driver.. I know i must do a 8 ohm coil, but do i have to rewind or disassemble mi pickup? Check out the picture above. I've removed the cover, added a "blade" of steel about 3mmx3mm and a very thin plastic bobbin top. The wire is wound between this top and the top of the pickup bobbin. I then cut out the top of the pickup cover and replaced it for a neat look...you might find a different way... Another way would be to make one completely separate and sticking it to the top of the pickup, buying a new cover to modify and assembling it together (driver on to pickup)...this way the process could be reversed and/or different drivers could be experimented with. This will work just as well... Good Luck...pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted November 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 Hi again... Sustainers are in the press lately... Guitarist UK and Guitar Player's latest got something on the fernandes guitars...rave reviews for the sustainer systems (so-so on the guitars) "the sustainer is amazing on clean tones, as the sustain swells in slowly for tones that range from the weirdest, coolest pseudo-reverb to synth like pads..." GP Of interest is that fernandes have ditched the sensitvity control...just two small toggles... This was something I'd thought would be better...you really don't use the sensitivity control...set for playing style, or full and control with pick attack, etc. They have 4 trim pots on the circuit board 1...sensitivity..."how fast the sustainer kicks in" 2...active neck pickup output...for when sustainer off 3...sustainer gain...??? 4...balance between Standard and Harmonic Mode... 1 + 3 are probably preamp and amp gain controls 2 is a preamp for the low output neck PUp/driver 4 is a cool feature...possibly they use a stereo amp (or quad preamp for all of above controls) Anyway...neat install...photos in the Jerry Garcia issue just out... The DIY could be made just as small or smaller, even without the SMD they use as this thing is a simpler device... So, encourage people to consider a circuit with trim pot for setting over a dedicated pot as we've been using...much slicker and i never use mine anyway... Good to see it getting reviewed....everyone is wrapped in it, it would seem, but you still don't hear too much feedback on the radio and stuff...shame that... psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucasbeat Posted November 28, 2005 Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 HI! I fou d something on the web, tahat shows the Fernandes sustainer circuit and is a tutorial on how to mount it into a Kramer guitar. Maybe it can helpful... The circuit is in a sort of advanced DIYer type... Not for me ! Good Luck! LUCAS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucasbeat Posted November 28, 2005 Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 I forgot to paste the link: http://www.kramerforum.com/wiring/sustainer.html I´ve been reading the manuals for the FS101 from Frenandes Guitars, and the PCboard looks quite complicated, if you want to see how it looks like, go to www.fernandesguitars.com, then to CUSTOMER SERVICE,TECHNICAL SUPPORT,MANUALS,and download the SUSTAINER FINE ADJUSTEMENTS, yo will get a back close up of the circuit. Bye! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoneBone Posted November 28, 2005 Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 I´ve been reading the manuals for the FS101 from Frenandes Guitars, and the PCboard looks quite complicated, if you want to see how it looks like, go to www.fernandesguitars.com, then to CUSTOMER SERVICE,TECHNICAL SUPPORT,MANUALS,and download the SUSTAINER FINE ADJUSTEMENTS, yo will get a back close up of the circuit. ← Here are the direct links (all PDF): FSK101-Manual FSK401-Manual Sustainer trimpot functions FoneBone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted November 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 Thanks guys...thats good stuff... You see that, although the principle, driver, circuit and stuff is not that hard with the system on this thread...getting it into the guitar can be a real problem... I suspect that there's quite a bit of electronic switching going on to control the pickup systems...they run allthe pickups to the board and out again... They also have put the switches on the board but in that Kramer Link the guy has had to take them off and hand wire them back on...12 wires to the switches alone...You can see by the end of it there are A LOT of wires coming and going... I can vouch for the thin driver idea and it working (tho i never did solve the pop thing) but getting it into the guitar....was tricky for me... You'll notice they have to have a fair bit of room in the guitar...or make some...and then, don't forget the battery... Here's an idea...how about a circuit and driver with batterybox...in the size and shape of a neck humbucker...so you loose the neck pickup...you gain the sustainer, use that space for everything...and....as there is only the bridge pickup...you avoid the complicated bypass switching required...(well it's an idea) The other idea is what we were working on with the surface mounted box (hows it going tim)...but the problem there was the interfacing, still got to wire it up... There's been a few sustainer devices made here on these ideas...how many have made it into guitars...I really think this needs a little attention and some clever ideas...anyway...there's a challenge for you...psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE MAD GUITARIST Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 I was reading this topica long time, and i just ned to have this thingy. I have few questions. 1) i'm using a magnet as mi inner coil do i wind teh wirwes straight on the coil or do i place something betwwen it, also where to conect the cables on the coil? 2)Also if i have this thingi moded and built directly in my guitar which is a strat with an single splitable hotrail, what drivers should i use? Booster I know those are stupid aquestions but i didn't do such a thing just the booster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted November 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2005 OK...hi and welcome Mad-G... I need a few more details... Is this right, a Strat type guitar with a single bridge hot rail pickup in the bridge (ie no other pickups) and a booser already on board...???? If so this is ideal... You make a driver buy winding the wire around a core...sounds like you want to use the magnet as a core as other's have done... Check out Onelastgoodbye's first post on page 70...beautifu construction by Tim (as always) and a good picture...be VeRy careful trying to shape magnets...I could never do it successfully and it can be very dangerous...Neodyminium (Rare Earth) Magnets are a definite No-NO... A lot easier if you cant get a suitable Magnet, is to make a steel core and place the magnet, or magnets below...See FoneBone's also beautiful driver construction on the same page...this is a steel core job. The trick is to make a thin driver...well that's the formula I've put forward...mine is only 3.5mm thick, Tim's was 5mm...it really is a very thin driver. It's my "belief" that it's this design that overcomes the phase problems and makes amplification so simple... On which...you have a perfectly good preamp in that booster so you just need the LM386 component... However, it will need to be on (probably max) when the sustainer is engaged or permanently on...I would suggest perhaps a whole Fetzer/Ruby circuit...even though the preamp is effectively duplicated it means you'r booster will run as normal and you just take a line from the pickup before it...If you check out the tutorial, Mike made his very small on perfboard as I recall... You shouldn't have trouble if you run the whole lot from you're single 9v...though you may want to use rechargables...it will use batteries like an effects box, not like your tiny booster, so expect to have to change batteries a lot more often than that... So...if your guitar only has the one pickup, you have a distinct advantage... 1...it's a humbucker and so is quiet and fairly powerful 2...you don't have the problems of switching, bypass, etc... 3...I suspect, as you already have active circuitry in the guitar and power on board (attached to the earth) you already have space for a battery and this arrangement will probably avoid the power-off pop that I get on my passive setup currently... On point 2...the huge number of connections as in the fernandes/kramer articles (linked above) can be avoided...with one pickup, it's obviously already selected and no other pickups need to be disconnected to turn on...so your switching is easy, just a simple switch to turn the power to the sustainer circuitry...nice So every encouragement....psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THE MAD GUITARIST Posted November 30, 2005 Report Share Posted November 30, 2005 Wow thanks for the great answer you just answered all my questions . You got it just right Strat with an extremly hot humbucker. another plus is it has a giant root under the stringst nit just for each pickup lioke normal strats but a ****in swimingpool! so i'll place the whole thing there, i'ts my main guitar right now thoug so i'll make the circuit and test it externaly, and later i'll mount it in, i'll send some progress pics soon i hope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted November 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2005 No problem...it sounds ideal for the project...yeah, the whole system can be tested outside of the guitar holding the driver above the strings...wish you all the luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightstring Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 R.G.: Before reading your posting, I finally understood that the driver needs a magnet.However the driver still only pull and not push. In the begining I thought a frequency divider or a dc shift was needed to avoid "attraction rectification". Dc shift is energy consuming. The answer was simple!. A magnet is the same as a dc shift but with no energy consuming. The magnet is used to bias the coil attraction and make it entirely positive (or negative, depending the placement). This explains why lead reversing or magnet polarity reversing did actually change the sound of the strings in your cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted December 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 Correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RV2 Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 This thread is really superb, very good work! I've read all the 70 pages and decided to give it a try. I have allready made a driver from a 6x6 mm steel core, bobbins from a cd case and 0,2 mm wire. The first time i winded the wire one of the bobbins got loose The second try went very well and I ended up with a nice looking driver with 8,3 Ohm. I've ordered rare earth magnets and the parts needed for the Fetzer-Ruby Amp, but about this amp I got a last question. In the different sustainer setups in this thread you see some setups with one control knob, some with two. In the scheme of the Fetzer-Ruby there are three potmeters, so I was wondering which one you will need to control the sustainer. What I now think is that only the volume pot is necessary, is this correct? I will post some pictures when I am a bit further. Greetz, Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted December 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 Hi RV2...and welcome...you are now apart of the development team Good on you Randy for getting stuck into this project (and trying to read all those pages - you really didn't need to but I'm glad you enjoyed it!) After reading your post I revisited G_Mikes Pictorial and have quoted some pictures from there. (If anyone would like to see that thread press the little pink arrow on the bottom right of the quote/pictures) ← 3 pots... The top pic is the circuit diagram. The pots are the zig-zag resistors with an arrow pointing to the middle. The first pot (100k trim) is a trimmer pot, in Mike's photo it is the blue rectangle. This adjusts the bias of the transistor and is set once. This one is necessary as each transistor is made a little differently and needs to be "tuned" if you like. The last pot (1k-B gain) coming from pins 1 and 8 of the LM386 adjusts the max output of the amplifier stage. This pot too is typically a trimmer but Mike has used a full sized pot as you can see. The circuit is in two parts - preamp and poweramp. Between these is a pot (100k-B volume) but I actually think this should be a 10k audio taper pot (perhaps this is a mistake - it will work either way). This pot is typically a sensitivity control and is mounted on the guitar. So...the first and the last pots are typically set and forget and the middle brought out for a control. However...I recently saw a review of a fernandes guitar in Guitar Player, Dec 2005 and noted that all the pots are trimmers with no sensitivity control at all. On my guitar I have a sensitivity control but in practice it is never used. I would very much suggest that all of these pots could be made trimmers and only two switches used to operate the device. This would be neater, smaller and easier to wire as youc could keep everything on the circuit board. All you need do is adjust them to your guitar's output and your playing style...or set to max (like mine ). In future my circuits will likely have no pots at all!! Now...on your driver. This will be interesting. Your core will be very similar in size to the one Mike made also. In the Thread, Mike describes it as being "stainless steel". If this is so it would not be very magnetic at all! Ordinary steel is the go but paint with nail polish if you want to keep off rust! What is interesting is that in this article, Mike complains of a very poor high string response. This was a problem and is for many technical reasons that have been discussed a lot. I think the thin driver concept addresses it by being "faster" (quicker to respond). I am pretty much convinced (or have convinced myself) that the "narrow core" (mine are 3mm wide) have an advantage here too. This is why I feel that a Humbucker sized (very wide) driver is not practical at all. The "narrow core theory" is that the high strings and high notes (harmonics, etc) vibrate faster and their wavelengths are close together. A wide core then would try to drive an up and down swing of the wave and cancel them out because it would span both of these states...if that's understandable. Perhaps the best core would be eliptical (wider under the lower strings) but, as it happens, the lower strings are easier to driver as there is more metal in them (ie thicker) for the driver to work on. The narrow core then may also aid in balance by working a little less efficiently on the easier to drive strings. But...that's a theory. Drivers have been made in all sorts of designs. The more variety, the better to understand and improve the drivers...so lets see how it goes. Rare Earth Magnets (warning: Do not attempt to cut or Grind them Please) Any magnets will do but don't make them too strong. If you are sticking multiple miniture mags on them beware. As you pop them on the core the core becomes magnetised and it gets harder to stick more on of the same polarity (opposites attract) so you may end up with the wrong side down for half of them. Mark the poles by measuring each with a compass so you know which side is up. Rare Earth or common Ceramic...it really doesn't matter. Both have worked fine. I've found the old ceramic bar from a pickup really good, or my driver/pickup combo idea, but they are not as small as these little critters. The ones I used to use were only 3x2 mm or 5x1mm discs by the way...very small. There is a lot of concentrated power in them. But any appropriate magnet will do. Anyway...I thought I'd see out the new year with a typically long post from me. I was astonished that even though the thread had slipped to page 4 there, it was still being regularly visited and has now topped 30,000 visits. I remember remarking way back an the feeling of pride that 1000 visits had been made by people interested in the project...it's all truely astonishing! Thanks to everyone who has ever contributed and to those who carry it on with their own projects, comments and ideas and sheer enthusiasm...may it sustain it for a long time yet to come. Best wishes to all...Peter Warmington, Melbourne, Australia...alias psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelastgoodbye Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 Now you know the box aint gonna look right if you leave out the drive pot . Not a bad idea at all actually, if you looked at the sustainer as a 'natural' extension of the guitar, you'd be expecting to control it's intensity with well..the volume pot. Which is exactly what you can do if the sustainer's output is trimmed to equal the stock pickup's output. We're venturing into cognitive ergonomics (basically the relationship between the product and the human way of (sub-conscious) thinking) here,really. Ideally, a sustainer guitar should be just as easy to use as a non-sustainer one. So you can do that by grouping the functions that intuitively go together, and if possible control them by just one knob (or pot, or switch,or...). Why would an amp need a gain knob if you could control it's gain by the amount of slamming it's input stage (ergo controlling the guitar's output). Anyway enough industrial designer-speak from me, If you can leave out a knob, I'm all for it. Technically you could even combine the on-off switch with the harmonics switch. Say... a three way switch: fundamental on -- off -- harmonics on. Or a sort of push -push (blend)pot, where you'd have fundamental mode on one end, harmonics on the other, and push it for on and off. just some thoughts, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted December 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 We're venturing into cognitive ergonomics (basically the relationship between the product and the human way of (sub-conscious) thinking) here,really. Ideally, a sustainer guitar should be just as easy to use as a non-sustainer one. So you can do that by grouping the functions that intuitively go together, and if possible control them by just one knob (or pot, or switch,or...). Tim ← I love it when I hear design speak...thanks Tim Yeah...after my last post I had a whole range of thoughts. For instance, if the power consumption was tollerable or could arrange remote power (as Ansil and others have put forward) then the sustainer could be on permanently. The sustainer circuit could be attached directly to the volume control so with reduced volume, the sensitivity would also reduce...It could be a push-pull for the harmonics as that only requires a DPDT switch. This presupposes a single pickup guitar however. It would also inhibit a popular effect of having the guitar sustaining and "violining" up the volume. You ceratinly wouldn't have any pop issues. It could be worth investigating electronic switching too. I found the installing into multi-pickup guitars like my strat quite difficult and I suspect this technology is incorporated into the Fernandes and Sustainiac systems to cut back on complexity and switch size...though possibly not. I can still see merit in an outboard device. A stomp box linked by a stero lead sending the signal back to the driver with all circuitry and power inside the box would be neat...no need for batteries either. Would this work do you think...signal out and signal back with a shared earth. I can see reversing the phase may be an issue (earth reversed) but I'm not sure. Could be a wha style footpedal for sensitivity...with outboard power you could dramatically increase power to the driver and responsiveness of the feedback. This could be similar to the ModelC sustainiac but without the cables hanging off everywhere! For the experimenter you could similarly have an effects loop to add effects into the drive chain...if you've a mind to. Lately I've really been sold on a single pickup plus driver guitar. So many problems are solved by removing the neck pickup from the equation...EMI, switching, pops, earthing...etc. If I could afford it I would get a two pickup guitar and simply replace the neck pickup with a driver, use the selector switch to control the sustainer/harmonics. In a neck humbucker space you could probably get the driver (since they are now so small as devised in this thread) and the circuitry in the one HB sized unit. Switching and battery placement would have to be arranged somewhere in the guitar I guess. With electronic switching you could use miniture SMD tactile switches. Built onto the circuit board this would be tiny really and could be stuck onto the guitar (no drilling). Or we could go back to some of our other ideas of a circuit, battery, driver add on device. Certainly the pot's take up room and expense. Eventually I'd like to see a more efficient, smaller circuit that these LM386 devices. These are fine but are very old technology and have really been replaced by a lot of other chips...not so easy to locate, but they are out there. As a production thing using SMD technology, even with electronic switching you would be creating something very, very tiny. When you look at how small our fetzer/ruby circuit is with standard components (as in G-Mike's photos from my previous post) and imagine it 20x smaller...the wires take up more room. Our thin drivers could also be developed more. Considering that the thin drivers made since outlining the concept...and that each person has made only a few...there are some amazing constructions there. Very neat, small and compact. I have made at least 60 drivers in the course of this thread of various designs. But I didn't get to work continuously on this design as I was sucked into the whole Hex drive concept for a very long time. Some of that work is applicable still, and much of it was never documented, even here. I'm not sure if the Hex driver thing was a backwater, but there was a direct link from my work in miniturizing drivers for the Hex stuff and the "thin driver" concept. Perhaps there are improvements yet to be explored with magnetic shielding and multi-phase cancelling drivers to reduce EMI into other pickups and improve efficiency. Anyway...good to see that there's still life in this old thread and the interest is still there. Perhaps in the new year, and me being back on line (if not actually building these things), people would like to explore some of the design possibilities again. I'd really like to see some installations too. Sometimes I feel as if I'm the only one with a fully incorporated installed and working sustainer guitar! I'd also like to hear some sounds. Hopefully I will be able to get together some new stuff if people are interested for people to hear of the sustainer-strat. Keep up the good work and interest...psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RV2 Posted December 14, 2005 Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 @ psw: thanks for the reply! and 60 drivers... wow I'm a rookie I haven't had the time to go on with the amp, but I did make some pics of my driver. So feel free to give your comments on it. I received today the rare earth magnets and I will have to try how many are needed. They are very strong for the size (5 x 4 x 1,5 mm). Also I've decided to try to make the amp with 3 trimpots and then try to set it to unity gain, so that I only have to put on the sustainer. But hey.... first have to get it all going Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted December 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 Wow Randy...another fantastic looking device! Congrats!! I used disc versions of those type of magnets and they worked fine. You may need some more but probably not...just be sure that they are all the same way up and not cancelling eachother out. It's a little tricky with a little compass to tell, especially when they are stuck to the driver. I had a special electronic polarity checker and was surprised to find how often I'd got them around the wrong way! The best way to check i guess is just to choose a magnet and mark one side. Opposites attract so if you try to stick another on it, the opposite side will stick to it. The side that doesn't stick is the similar pole...mark that. It's important to mark it because...once stuck to the steel core...the core becomes an odd shaped magnet itself! The behaviour of the next magnet reacts to that. These things are very powerfull...great photo of them by the way. The steel becomes an extension of the mags but gets saturated...the steel is not able to absorb the energy anywhere like the amount of Neodyminium (Rare Earth). You can get odd/unexpected shaped fields and as a result odd interactions with multiple magnets. Playing my sustainer guitar yesterday, I'll have to admit that there is a bias towards notes of the harmonic series of the open strings (i.e. the key of E minor). This is because it is on top of the neck pickup which is pretty much where the 24th fret would be. This bias is less on the lower strings, and less on the upper frets. There are a number of reasons for this. I mention it in relation to your driver as it has a wider core. The "wide core theory" goes that, because it possibly straddles a few nodes at once it will be less selective of harmonics and so less key biased (work just as well on any note). You will be able to provide important feedback (pun unintended...hehe) on this theory. With my bridge mounted ultra-miniture hex drivers this bias was less. At the bridge end the harmonics are very close together so the driver must have straddled a few harmonics. Similarly I have no trouble driving strings freted on the top fret of my guitar. Like the bridge, these notes harmonic series are very close together (notice how there are more natural harmonics as you move closer to the ends of the strings - these are created by hitting nodes of vibration). It is also the case that the Harmonic mode is a little less predictable. Normally the harmonic driven is an octave or an octave+a 5th. It could be that other harmonics are favoured on different notes that are a little less predictable. They may be difficult to drive (less responsive) or be cancelled out. Again, I think it was G-Mike that reported some of these problems with his wide driver from the tutorial. I'm not sure that his harmonic mode worked at all! So...you can provide important info to the project...you may have made an improvement or proved a theory. If not satisfied, well, you got some good practice in for the next one...now, onto the circuit...trim pots will be cheaper and smaller (and less outboard wiring if they are on the board) so sounds like a good plan... Thanks for the pics...psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r00key Posted December 14, 2005 Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 Still watching the thread... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted December 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 Hey there... I have placed a link again at Aron's DIY stompbox forum and there has been some interesting and valuable contributions about circuitry and implimentation in a guitar. Also some theory...and another indicating they are going to give it a go. Sustainer Thread at DIYstompbox Forum worth checking out...psw Hi RooKEY...sorry I'm not able to put anything together at the moment for a 7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RV2 Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 Hi psw, cool to see my pages on the other forum as well! This weekend I have some time for making the amplifier, so maybe I will also be able to get my guitar sustaining Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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