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PRS kit neck glue

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:D Ok so I"m gettin one of the PRS style kits from Bryan here within the month and I wanted to ask a few questions. First is the finish. I want to do a paint job that is a tinted laquer or clear coat of some sort. The very thin veneer wont allow me to sand so I'm trying to find a way to get the same dyed wood effect with just spray paint, anybody that can give me the type of paint and where to buy it would be greatly appreciated. I'm new to this so I have no clue at all where to look. Another hting, It's a bolt on neck I see but can the neck joint be glues perhaps? Maybe Brian can answer that question. Would it be worth it and whats the chances of it going wrong? Thanks a bunch guys. B):D:D
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there is a coat of sanding sealer on the guitars already, you can sand it off so you have bare wood and dye like a normal piece of wood then go through the normal finishing process, just take your time and be careful sanding so you dont sand through the veneer


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^^^ there may have been a thread like that questions about the kits come up every so often take a look through the archives and youll prolly find your answer

also sc, check the tutorial page there is all sorts of tutorials about finishing to help you out and :DB):D books

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Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars

The CE models (and Roman Quicksilvers) are all the same. The CE or bolt in necks are the same, just not glued. You can plug the bolt holes and glue it in, but be absolutely sure to remove ALL the sealer so the glue can pennetrate. Also, clamp it very vell.

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I pulled this comment of mine from another post...

"A clear finish is only as good as the surface it rests on... If you really want a nice finish that shows depth then you should be using a base sealer coat (sanding sealer) after finish sanding the maple. The most overlooked step here is keeping the wood clean and free of sanding dust. Use a can of compressed air and a tack cloth often. It should be absoluty free of any dust before applying the sealer coat.

Next apply a dye - not a stain - a dye. Minwax if for footstools and shelves...not guitars. Pick up a color that you want in powdered form. I suggest alcohol soluble..although people have had good results with the water soluble dyes.

Apply the dye on top of the sealer coat...let it dry...re seal. Sand this flat with wet sanding paper starting at 600. Once all the "hills and valleys" are gone, you can begin shooting your Nitro Lacquer. Apply 2-3 coats a day for 3 days. Lightly sanding between sets. Before the final finish, let the nitro gas out for ~4 weeks. Then start with 600 and go to 2000. You should be spending about 1 hour on each grit to get the proper finish. Resist the temptation to use a sander...do this by hand and dry the surface often to check for scratches etc.

After you've reached 2000 - use something like 3M's Machine Polish to buff out the shine.

Note on guitar finishing...you'll get out of it what you put into it. If you want a great finish, you need to follow the proper steps. There is more than one way to skin a cat - but if you follow these steps, you'll have a very impressive looking finish. Spend some time on ReRanch reading their tutorials...very helpful."

Also found this post that has some pictures of my last guitar during the above process..


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