stratovarius Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 Ok so I"m gettin one of the PRS style kits from Bryan here within the month and I wanted to ask a few questions. First is the finish. I want to do a paint job that is a tinted laquer or clear coat of some sort. The very thin veneer wont allow me to sand so I'm trying to find a way to get the same dyed wood effect with just spray paint, anybody that can give me the type of paint and where to buy it would be greatly appreciated. I'm new to this so I have no clue at all where to look. Another hting, It's a bolt on neck I see but can the neck joint be glues perhaps? Maybe Brian can answer that question. Would it be worth it and whats the chances of it going wrong? Thanks a bunch guys. Quote
aliendude012 Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 Check this page for aerosol paints and dyes. And im new, too. Who is this bryan fellow and whats the PRS kit like? I wanna build one too. Quote
MzI Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 there is a coat of sanding sealer on the guitars already, you can sand it off so you have bare wood and dye like a normal piece of wood then go through the normal finishing process, just take your time and be careful sanding so you dont sand through the veneer MzI Quote
Devon Headen Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 I think somebody here was talking about wiping the dye over a sanding sealer coat. Maybe it was Myka? don't really remember that well. Maybe somebody could find that thread. It seems to me like there was a thread almost identical to this a few months back. Maybe I'm just having a deja voo. Quote
Santa Claws Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 yeaA whats a sealer coat, and do i have to do that before i laquer ? Quote
MzI Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 ^^^ there may have been a thread like that questions about the kits come up every so often take a look through the archives and youll prolly find your answer also sc, check the tutorial page there is all sorts of tutorials about finishing to help you out and books Quote
Devon Headen Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 Isn't it "Isn't it "Brian", and not "Bryan"?", and not "Isn't it "Brian" and not "Bryan"?". Errors happen bud..I think everybody knew who he was talking about. Quote
spirit Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 Yeh, but I'm just pedantic (apart from when it comes to my own grammar, it seems) Quote
spirit Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 pedantic What a fine scholastic word! Why thank you sir! Quote
Devon Headen Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 I had to look it up lol. I say there's no bad way to learn a new word. I might have to use that although the fact that I had to look it up means I'm not pedantic I guess Quote
Bad Moon Guitars Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 Since we are on the PRS KIt subject.........could the neck be glued in to make it more like a PRS? I have had the kit for about 3 months and today I thought maybe I would start to put it together. Keith Quote
Devon Headen Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 I guess you could glue it in if you really want to, but it's not gonna have a heel like a PRS, and you're not gonna really get any better of a joint. I think the CE models have bolt-in necks anyway don't they? Quote
Devon Headen Posted May 6, 2004 Report Posted May 6, 2004 Here are some threads about applying the dye over the sealer. It's Morben not Myka doing it this way. He seems to be really good, so I trust his opinion though I've never tried it. 1 2 Quote
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted May 7, 2004 Report Posted May 7, 2004 The CE models (and Roman Quicksilvers) are all the same. The CE or bolt in necks are the same, just not glued. You can plug the bolt holes and glue it in, but be absolutely sure to remove ALL the sealer so the glue can pennetrate. Also, clamp it very vell. Quote
jimmyb Posted May 7, 2004 Report Posted May 7, 2004 im getting really interested in these prs kits now!.......... Quote
Morben Guitars Posted May 7, 2004 Report Posted May 7, 2004 I pulled this comment of mine from another post... "A clear finish is only as good as the surface it rests on... If you really want a nice finish that shows depth then you should be using a base sealer coat (sanding sealer) after finish sanding the maple. The most overlooked step here is keeping the wood clean and free of sanding dust. Use a can of compressed air and a tack cloth often. It should be absoluty free of any dust before applying the sealer coat. Next apply a dye - not a stain - a dye. Minwax if for footstools and shelves...not guitars. Pick up a color that you want in powdered form. I suggest alcohol soluble..although people have had good results with the water soluble dyes. Apply the dye on top of the sealer coat...let it dry...re seal. Sand this flat with wet sanding paper starting at 600. Once all the "hills and valleys" are gone, you can begin shooting your Nitro Lacquer. Apply 2-3 coats a day for 3 days. Lightly sanding between sets. Before the final finish, let the nitro gas out for ~4 weeks. Then start with 600 and go to 2000. You should be spending about 1 hour on each grit to get the proper finish. Resist the temptation to use a sander...do this by hand and dry the surface often to check for scratches etc. After you've reached 2000 - use something like 3M's Machine Polish to buff out the shine. Note on guitar finishing...you'll get out of it what you put into it. If you want a great finish, you need to follow the proper steps. There is more than one way to skin a cat - but if you follow these steps, you'll have a very impressive looking finish. Spend some time on ReRanch reading their tutorials...very helpful." Also found this post that has some pictures of my last guitar during the above process.. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...wtopic=6194&hl= Quote
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