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Posted

For taping or masking binding while finishing, what is the product of choice? I have used regular painters masking tape (low tack) but I have to fiddle with it given its width. I am interested in thinner material to make taping the top edge of binding easier. I went to the automotive shop and asked for pinstriping tape, and was pointed to pinstriping material - the actual vinyl stripes to apply to auto bodies. Didn't think that was right. Also, if taping off to create a faux binding ala PRS, what's the best to help prevent bleeding under the tape? Many thanks. A search didn't turn up much.

Posted

I don't recommend that at all, ESPECIALLY if using celluloid binding and laquer paints, they'll discolor the binding. I use the 3M fineline blue tape, it's available in 1/16" 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" widths. It's a little pricy, about $8 a roll, but it's worth it, you get a perfect edge and it goes around curves excellent.

Posted
You don't have to use tape at all. Just spray over the binding, then scrape it off before clear coating.

this is plain nonsense, even thought it might be done, you run the chance of scratching the binding... use the 1/4 or 1/8 tape used for pinstripping, the one must custom painters use to make flames or custom grafics, and cover the rest with painter paint, this is what I will do on my LP once I finish with the body work... don't rely on scraping the binding you may run the chance of messing it up... If you ain't got the knowledge don't reply NONSENSE stuff, please... If I was a complete NuB and I had followed that advise and scraped my binding beyond repair I would have been very ....... mad!

Posted

I definitely plan to tape.

LGM, I haven't seen the 3M tape you mention, where do you find it?

Maiden69, I think you are referring to latex pinstriping tape, where do you find it? I asked for it at my local automotive supply house, but they didn't know what I was talking about. Stupid chain stores. :D

Which of the two - 3M fine line or latex pinstriping tape is best for creating a faux binding like on a PRS?

Posted
I'll have to look at the model number on the tape, the green stuff works ok but not as good as the blue, I might have the manufacturer wrong, I'm pretty sure it's 3M but I could be wrong :D

The blue one I have is 3M, and it's great but like you said pricy. I use it for the outline, then use a (imitation they sell (blue to) from there on to cover for the overspray. I guess we were replying at the same time, I wouldn't have posted if I had seen you, but it was plain ..... (can't come up with the word in english, so this is spanish) iresponsable (I think it's spelled almopst the same) to post that reply...

The latex one is sold at Stew-Mac, I can't find it here in the area I'm at in Maryland, the local paint shop sucks here, I'm new so I need to move around to see if I can get it... but the 3m is great if you can get it...

Posted
this is plain nonsense, even thought it might be done, you run the chance of scratching the binding... use the 1/4 or 1/8 tape used for pinstripping, the one must custom painters use to make flames or custom grafics, and cover the rest with painter paint, this is what I will do on my LP once I finish with the body work... don't rely on scraping the binding you may run the chance of messing it up... If you ain't got the knowledge don't reply NONSENSE stuff, please... If I was a complete NuB and I had followed that advise and scraped my binding beyond repair I would have been very ....... mad!

Sorry, I should have included more info.

I saw the technique of scraping on the StewMac video "Spray Fininshing Basics" by Dan Erlewine and Don MacRostie.

So, it's not nonsense.

I've only built 4 guitars and none of them with binding, so maybe I shouldn't have said anything.

Anyway, check out the video, it's pretty good for beginner and intermediate finishing techniques.

Posted

If one does not think bindings should be scraped...... Take a tour of the CF Martin facility.

The raw binding is not a perfect thickness throughout its entire length....Most likely, you will have to do some scraping on every binding, to a certain extent.

Posted
If one does not think bindings should be scraped...... Take a tour of the CF Martin facility.

The raw binding is not a perfect thickness throughout its entire length....Most likely, you will have to do some scraping on every binding, to a certain extent.

you are right but if you don't know the material or type of paint that the person is using you shouldn't just say to paint over it and then scrape. Binding has to be shaped to the guitar you are mounting it, this often include scraping and sanding. And like Jeremy pointed out,

ESPECIALLY if using celluloid binding and laquer paints, they'll discolor the binding

I had a bad experience like this and I messed up the binding trying to sand out the stain ...

Posted

Howdy,

I have done one guitar with binding and nitro, and I did the spray and scrape routine. I have had no problems it.

Pin striping an edge is a different story, one that I can not address.

Guitar Ed

Posted

engineer meant well at least. i wouldn't use the scraping technique on a natural faux binding like that but you were on the right track as far as regualr binding goes. somebody correct me if I'm wrong but isn't scraping what gibson used to do to virtually all their guitars?

Posted

Sorry, I should have included more info.

I saw the technique of scraping on the StewMac video "Spray Fininshing Basics" by Dan Erlewine and Don MacRostie.

So, it's not nonsense.

I've only built 4 guitars and none of them with binding, so maybe I shouldn't have said anything.

Anyway, check out the video, it's pretty good for beginner and intermediate finishing techniques.

well, with all due respect to Dan Erlewine (and I have heaps of respect for the man) one persons method is not the all end all and I think it's a poor idea for more than one reason.

1: For reasons I stated before, you can discolor the binding so easily, especially if you use a celluloid binding and a caustic paint like laquer. If you are using a wood binding you'll totally screw it up as the grain will soak up the finish.

2: The ONLY way you could scrape the binding and NOT damage the color finish is to scrape it down to an angle slightly into the body, this kills the nice crisp edge IMO and you STILL run the risk of damaging the painted finish.

For what it's worth, scraping the binding is a very good method for levelling the binding to the body or neck, and is the accepted and probably best method for doing so. Anyone who'd tried sanding plastic bindings knows how hard that is, it doesn't sand worth a damn. I scrape all bindings, but I do it BEFORE the guitar is painted.

Posted

Sounds like Engineer may be confused as to what we're "taping" vs. "scraping".. I have seen the Stew Mac video on sunbursting, and I'm fairly certain they didn't scrape the sides of the binding. The binding showing on the face of the guitar is dificult to tape, and easy to scrape with a razor and a steady thumb guide. But the sides should absolutly be taped off.

I used pinstripe tape (the actual pinstripe) that johnsilver saw at the store.. It has worked great. Of the different tapes I've used, it's the best. Haven't tried the other pinstriping tape yet, but this is 4 binding jobs with no complaints.

And I should mention that I always shoot a sealer coat over the entire guitar (including the binding) before colors/dyes. It's MUCH easier to scrape off something shot over a sealer coat than it is if shot directly onto the binding. It also prevents the binding from being stained... Hope that helps.

Posted

OK, maybe I should have said-

I watched the StewMac video "Spray Fininshing Basics" by Dan Erlewine and Don MacRostie. Don did a finish where he painted the colors without masking the binding. Then he scraped the binding and sanded just before the clear coats.

Or, to be more more vague but providing information -

Check out the StewMac video "Spray Fininshing Basics" by Dan Erlewine and Don MacRostie. The video shows a scraping technique that doesn't require taping.

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