LGM Guitars

for getting rid of the overspray, knowing you're going to spray again, I'd use 600 or 800 grit. use a hard block again, not just your hand though. When you have your final coats on, I start with 2000 grit, it takes longer, but it doesn't put really deep scratches that become really hard to get out into your paint.

you've probably just got overspray on those spots, or, didn't spray evenly enough there. Give it a few more coats, and wet sand the entire thing smooth, then spray on a few more nice even coats.

I inlayed a .020" thick piece of Ebony between the maple fretboard and maple neck when I swapped the board, because the brand new maple board, was much whiter than the oxidized maple neck, and the 2 pieces, once glued, looked funny together, so I routed a thin slot, and put the ebony in there to break up the color discrepancy. I ended up REALLY liking the look, it really ties the neck into the body I think

That's what I get for letting Kenny proof read and rewrite! LOL it's fixed, the Truss rod cover says "Dedicated to Stefy"

looks good, althought the ones at the 24th fret need to be smaller or the frets will cover the edges, especially if you use a jumbo fret like the dunlop 6100's or 6000's

The one in the middle is the trem cavity cover, the one that is right next to it is the electronics cover, the one beneath that is the Jack cavity cover, and the one at the bottom as Dan said is the 9 volt battery cover

I should have mentioned, the picture, is a clickable link that goes to a bunch more pic's, click the picture, there is a pic of what it started out as in there LOL!!!!!

Here it is, just packed and ready to ship out tomorrow, let me know what you think!!!! since I"m a dummy and forgot to say, click the picture, it's a link! LOL

Never dealt with, but haven't heard much good about them. the ones I've seen being sold on ebay are never good pictures, nothing up close, and always around the hard edges, pickup cav's, routes etc, it looks bubbly and chipped. Rich Harris I think has seen one, and he basically calls them butchers as I recall from a customer I had who wanted to do that. I know from plating motorcycle parts, that for what they charge, they can't be doing much of a job.

damn, why do you have to live so far away dude!!!!!

well, I'm going to play devils advocate, and say, the work looks fine, but dude, paint it a solid color LOL!!! I don't like the cedar top at all personally, but then, I don't like figured tops either with the odd exception. It's nothing against your work though, that looks class, I just think the veneer looks to much like furniture or something. I say, seal that sucker, and paint it LOL!!!! however, it's only my opinion

Hey dude, there is a ton of info here Airguns and spraying Info on spraying, mixing, and polishing I just didn't wanna have to retype it all, I'm lazy

Do NOT do this if you're spraying laquers, all you're doing with a hair drier is drying the surface, if laquer flashes on the surface to quick, it will crack as the paint under the surface cures and shrinks, you're better off to spray in a warm area where the paint can cure through. letting the top flash to fast is not the best idea. This is where I like the 2 and 3 part paints I spray, you can use accelerator's to speed dry time, but they cure through with a chemical reaction, not air dry. You know you're cured through with them.

yeah, $300 a quart is what it costs me. Best thing to do is tell a body shop you're looking for some, and when they do a vehicle, ask if they will sell you the leftover.

I'm sure they could hand pick a longer compound radius board for you, just call and ask, they're only a 1 800 number away

I've never understood how a trussrod that is tensioned properly and working in the neck as it should can rattle anyway, I've never had that problem. I would check to make sure it's actually tight in the neck (just snug, but tightened) before I try adding anything or pulling fretboards. Unless you REALLY screwed up the route

it will work, to get that factory shine you'll still need to polish it, but it will work just fine

Well, not really spring cleaning, but the spring special for members of PG only!!!! Orders for Jem style vines, or pyramids are being taken now, for delivery in mid May. Special spring pricing of $375* USD for inlay with refret!!!!! *excluding chrome and real shell vines. Please inquire for spring rates on those. Also, I've got that "I'm sick of winter and need spring" fever right now, and in a pretty spirited mood, which means, custom inlays, probably will be quoted a little more charitably than usual *hint hint Check out the site, and email me with any questions edit: forgot to mention, orders accepted now, but please expect mid may on finished necks, I'm booked until the end of march, but this way, guarantee's you a spot. 50% deposit required with shipment of neck please

Sold pending funds

I got rid of the frong LOL Yes, you can walk all the way around it, but you need to flip it from the back to the front, you don't want to be spraying upwards

Not to be a dick, but, thin necks (like ibanez) once the fretboard is removed, will twist really easily with pressure. Be VERY careful if you are doing this as it will take nothing for you to hold the neck flat to start with, and just remove wood while keeping the twist in. I have successfully straightend necks by applying an equal twist in the opposite direction, and letting a kettle boil under it for a while. then let it completely cool and dry still with the twist in it. when you remove your clamping, it will come back very close to flat. On a thicker neck I suppose it wouldn't be as big an issue, but I know from experience, a wizard neck will twist by hand without a fretboard really easily. The ironic part is, on a neck like a wizard neck, it's just as likely that the fretboard is the culprit, especially if it's not a quartersawn board. when you remove the fretboard, the neck might be dead flat already

The really simple way, and cheap, is....... make a fake neck from 3/4" plywood (that's plenty thick to support any body) make it about 30" long. Fit the neck cavity so you have about 1/32" gap all around, and put a shim on the bottom so there is a gap between your fake neck and the neck pocket. Then, go buy yourself a $19 sawhorse, and a spring loaded squeeze clamp. Bolt the body to the fake neck, and using the squeeze clamp, clamp the other end of the fake neck to the saw horse. The saw horse I have is 30" tall, which is the perfect height for me when spraying. I spray a perimeter pass (all edges) then the back, then just grab the fake neck, unclamp, rotate the body 180 degrees, and spray the front, and you're set.

I think Krylon has their own clear, I would stick to product specific paints. As for the dust spots, first of all, when you sand, use a hard block or you'll see funny ripples when you clear. your fingers are not an acceptable hard block. If you use a hard block, any dust specks you end up with will be knocked down with the rest. What I would do now, is use a hard block, and go over the entire front and back again and try to blend those spots. You could spot spray them, but I'd try to get rid of them first. A very important note, clear won't hide anything. It might disguise it, but it won't get rid of it. Your finish will only be as good in the end as it is in the beginning Sounds like you've got some rain there anyway, so spend another day just to go over it again with a hard block and you'll be fine

Typical Ibanez radius is 430mm, almost 17". There is no easy to get board with that radius pre-slotted. BUT, Stew Mac sells 25.5" scale preslotted fretboards, and will do a hand pick for you for the longest one's possible, there is plenty of room to cut the last 2 frets. They are 12" radius, but while you are ordering fretboards and a fret slotting saw, order a 16" radius sanding block as well (they don't make a 17"), and modify the board, it's really simple to do, and won't take long

No worries, would you still like pics? I was just waiting to get batteries for the camera (the world lives on batteries) I can still send pics if you like