LGM Guitars

As much as it pains me to say this, this one is sold :'(

Somebody looks to damn happy for such a pointy guitar, I say it's my shop, and pink it is! http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/IMGP2778.JPG http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/IMGP2777.JPG

Paua heart isn't MOP, it's abalone

I'm not nuts, I'm simply entitled to my own opinion. What I don't like about how the lamination ends there is that it kills the curve of the body. If it had been carved into more of a compound curve, like the tummy cut on the back, I'd probably like it more, but it's the straightness of the line interupting the flow of the curve around the body that bothers me. And true, I don't like laminations in a body like that, I think it looks like mistakes more than planning, but again, that's my opinion, doesn't make it right or wrong though. I like the way the laminations work on the tummy cut, it continues with the flow of the tummy cut, stll sweeps through, but on the top, it's just a straight line that seemingly comes from nowhere.

Had to give my vote to Stew for the police guitar. Here is why, forgive me for being harsh, but after reading nothing but praise on some of these instruments I'm going to be straight. The police guitar, though probably not the most complex instrument here, is different, graphics aren't done often, and I liked the concept and the execution looks very well done. De-Fre's SG guitar. Well, first, I don't like SG's, but I don't take that into account. What did strike me as poor was the cutaway's in the horns, perhaps it's in the picture's, but they look very rough. Also, the piece of maple between the pickup cavities makes no sense to me. Don't understand why you wouldn't have painted that as well. Honestly, I'd have given it higher marks without the pinup sticker as well. Godin's guitar. Well, you've done well with building Godin, and I've read tons of praise, I like your design, but this particular one, to me was not executed well. IF (and that's a strong IF) your headstock is truly designed with the tuners spaced like that, then I'm sorry, but it's a poor design IMO. Not being symetrical is not a big deal, but the uneven spacing of the tuners looks like you screwed up. Next is your finish. I've seen you give lots of advice on achieving great finishes, so what is wrong on this one? There is more orange peel than the last orange I ate. Sorry to be harsh, but I can see it in the pictures, if you can see it in the pictures I'd hate to see how rough it is in person. I've been doing this long enough to know that pictures hide a lot of finish flaws. Southpaw, There really isn't anything negative I have to say about your guitar execution wise from your pictures. Looks good, I don't like the neck pickup treatment personally, and I hate tele's but the guitar looks good, the reason I picked the Police guitar over this one is that the police guitar, although a strat, was something different finish wise, not another transparent finish on figured wood. Phil, the bass guitar. This is a great looking instrument, however, whether it's this guitar, conklin, or anyone else, the part that always looks amatuerish to me is when an arm cutaway is done so that the back body wood shows through as in this case. To me, it took the nice smooth curves of your body design, and put a hard edge into it. Killed the look of the lines. Also, to me, it just looks like exactly what it was, the top wasn't as thick as it should have been, however, this is just my opinion, it's something that's been done by manufactures many times, I've just never got it, nicely done instrument though. Big D, another nice instrument, another tele, but nicely done still. I guess I'm just getting pickier lately, I hate wipe on finishes, had you done a nice high gloss finish on this, I'd have been more excited about it, again, just me, but a nice high gloss finish gives a much more professional look IMO. Can't really say anything negative about the overall guitar though, it is nicely done Perry, hard for me to pick your guitars bro, only because I expect nothing but the best from your stuff, the only thing taking me away from this guitar was the color really. Just didn't like it personally. But that's certainly not a crack at the guitar, just personal preference. thegarehanman, I just really don't like the design on this guitar. The upper horn and the F hole look like mistakes to me, the upper horn just looks odd, really odd. And the F hole, I don't know what to think about it, it doesn't flow with the rest of the guitar at all. Just kind of ends in an odd fashion. The "launchpad" of knobs looks weird to me as well, I think with the heavy carve in the top recessed knobs would have looked a lot better, can't knock the wood work you did there though, I know from experience it's not a simple task. Not sure what the inlay looking part inside the horns is supposed to be either, but it doesn't fit with the flow of the guitar IMO either. Just to many things look out of place on this one. Having said that, the work itself looks good. Cudbucket, Your guitar is very nicely done, I don't care for the color on it, particularly on the back, but color is a moot point. Overall the guitar is very nicely done. I think it the end, what really stuck out to me with Stew's guitar, is of ALL the guitars this month, it is one of two that was not a transparent finish over figured wood. Figured woods are nice, but everyone does them. Having painted over 300 guitars to date, I would rather see a perfectly executed solid black, or Kandy color done to a transparent finish. There is so much more effort and technique involved in getting the PERFECT black, or the perfectly laid kandy pearl than spraying a transparent. That's not saying at all that a trans finish is easy to do, far from it, it's probably harder when you really have to consider the color and grain of the wood to end up with the perfect color, but the actual spraying, and clear coating is more forgiving than the others. Black means you have to be absolutely perfect in your finish or everything jumps out like crazy, Kandies mean you have to spray perfectly or you will see grain lines in the metallic or pearl from gun overlap. Having said that, as I mentioned earlier, pictures can hide many imperfections in a finish, so you really don't get a great idea of what things REALLY are in the finishes here. More than anything I was trying to judge all the guitars this month based on final execution, some I thought were really good, some really bad. That's how it goes. No, I'm not becoming arrogant, I think my guitars are nice, but I know they still have a ways to go before I'll be totally happy with them. Most of it comes down to personal taste, but then really, that's what GOTM is anyway, a popularity contest of sorts. So, I really tried to be objective in this months vote. Sorry if I hurt any feelings or offended anyone, but the only way you really get better, is when people give honest criticism and you can take it and use it to your advantage for the next ones. Peace......

Well, have fun with the guitar, but that's far from 5A quilt.

Ibanez AANJ body for an edge or lo pro edge trem in Matte grey nickle finish. Some small chips but nothing major. Great project body or good to play right now. Also: Ibanez AANJ 24 fret neck. Excellent condition, ready to bold on Asking $125 for the body, $150 for the neck, or $250 for both plus shipping. Email lgm@lgmguitars.com with any questions. Jeremy

I have a very good condition Jackson "performer" guitar neck with tuners lock nut, and truss rod cover. 24 fret neck, standard headstock, dot inlays, jumbo frets in very good condition. One small chip on headstock. Perfect for that RR V project that so many of you are doing Asking $150US plus shipping.

Item for sale: Custom JEM911USA Description & Condition: As new Asking Price: $2600US obo My Location: Alberta, Canada Terms of Sale/Purchase: Paypal or certified money order in US funds Other Information: Well, you guys know the guitar, I hate to sell it, but I've had some major bills come up with LGM Guitars recently that require some $$$ immediately. This is a custom JEM done as a collaborative effort between LGM Guitars, EKG guitars, and About Time Designs. Lots of pictures here http://www.lgmguitars.com/guitars/custom_electric/911.html Some info, Mahogany body from EKG Guitars. Neck started life as an RG neck which had the fretboard replaced with ebony, red white and blue pyramid inlays, and "USA" replacing the word "JEM" on the headstock. Pickups are red and white Evolution humbuckers and a blue HS2 single. Red white and blue swirl from About Time Designs. All hardware was bought new and is in as new condition. This guitar was and is very special to me, however, getting the shop back in top running order is more important to me. We've suffered flood damage this year and in an effort to rebuild from that I need some money to help pay for damages. So, hopefully there is somebody else out there who this guitar could have very special meaning to as well. Email me for more info on this beautiful on of a kind guitar. Will ship anywhere in the world at buyers expense, will ship to lower 48 and canada if asking price is received. lgm@lgmguitars.com Thank you Jeremy

Item for sale: Leviathan 6 string hardtail Description & Condition: Prototype guitar Asking Price: $1400US My Location: Alberta Canada Terms of Sale/Purchase: Paypal or certified money order Other Information: This was the prototype for the 6 string hard tail Leviathan. There are no playing issues with this guitar, it plays and sounds fantastic, being the prototype, there are some finish flaws. The biggest being the line down the bookmatch quilted top. The paint itself has no runs or anything, but is not absolutely perfect, you have to look to notice the marks, but I just want to be straight up with it. Pickups are dimarzio Evolutions, hardware, hipshot bridge, gotoh tuners. This is a chance to get a Leviathan at a low price, body is mahogany with a quilted top. Ebony fretboard, reverse headstock with quilted veneer. This is the FIRST Leviathan hardtail that was ever built. I will supply a certificate of authenticity stating it is the first hardtail leviathan built, and the 3rd leviathan ever built. There are no chips or dings, but as I say, the finish isn't perfect, I would give it an 8 out of 10, playing wise it is great. I was hoping to keep all of the Leviathan prototypes, but getting the shop back in top running order is more important to me. We've suffered flood damage this year and in an effort to rebuild from that I need some money to help pay for damages. So, hopefully there is somebody else out there who this guitar could have very special meaning to as well. Email me for more info on this beautiful one of a kind guitar. Will ship anywhere in the world at buyers expense, will ship to lower 48 and canada if asking price is received. http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l.../lev_red_02.jpg http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l.../lev_red_03.jpg http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l.../lev_red_05.jpg Please email me for more information lgm@lgmguitars.com Jeremy

Maiden, It's not a carve no, just a standard wood violins viper. I'm not going to get into detail on how I did the finish as I'm still working to get it perfect, and, it took me forever to come up with a deadly solution to this finish and part of me wants to keep that a secret. The paints though were all SEM or HOK Kandy concentrates. The yellow is under all the other colors, then touched up over them again. Since they are all Kandy's, you see through them and see the color changes happening in the fade better than if they were solid base. I'm thrilled with this finish, all that's left is to sand it and buff it out now Jeremy

Well, here was my latest challenge, the surface looks bumpy, but it's dead smooth, sadly, pictures cannot possibly capture what this looks like in person, it's wild! http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/Mark%20Wood/viper1.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/Mark%20Wood/viper2.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/Mark%20Wood/viper3.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/Mark%20Wood/viper5.jpg

Here's a couple more pics of Matt's impaler for you all. http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/IMGP2716.JPG http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/IMGP2717.JPG

I had the first set of these after Lea (from Graphtech's) own set. They were on the NAMM Leviathan. They are very cool, they made a couple small changes from the ones I have, but they work very nicely. Don't hold your breath for a piezo version, I've been talking with Lea for quite some time about that and the problem is the baseplate for the floyd has to be machined. No big deal if you have access to the right equipment, but the hardened baseplates aren't easy to just drill for the piezo element wires. The only way they're considering offering them is if they can offer them with a full baseplate that is machined for those saddles. Otherwise it is not a DIY project, it's barely a guitar tech project if machining is involved. But, if you just want to have a smoother saddle, and a nice comfy feeling, then these are the ticket

Hey guys, Just logging in to tell you a little about Matt's progress. First, he's a cool guy, a little intimidated by some of the work I think, and I'm probably not the best teacher, I was kind of noticing today, I tend to blast through things pretty quick, so, like I did, he's probably learning somewhat "trial by fire". He does listen though, he does things as he's told which will certainly help his learning process. I think if I had to say something negative, my only comment would be his confidence in himself, which is picking up, and probably just shaken being in a new shop with unfamiliar tools. He's made a couple of minor mistakes (which I have totally expected) and they're no big deal, but he gets kind of down about them, so Matt, don't worry buddy!!!! it's no big thing, unless I get mad it wasn't a big enough mistake to worry about! Anyway, I think the biggest thing that Matt is learning so far is design refinement. He came up with his headstock design, and it was cool, I made a couple suggestions and it went (in his mind) from cool, to HOLY F*** THAT'S COOL!!. So anyway, I won't tell you everything about everything, I'll leave that to Matt, I'll just leave it at saying he's doing well, and I'm happy to have him here, this impaler will certainly be a contender for GOTM when it's done Jeremy Here's a couple pics of his neck that he asked me to take for him. http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/Impaler%20two.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/impaler/impaler%20three.jpg

Well, I'm taking a break from the forum, not leaving permanently, just taking a break. I am just frustrated with reading posts still from people offering advice when they obviously don't have a clue about things. I've seen so many people talk the talk, but don't walk the walk on here lately, I'm just tired of it. So rather than turn into an asshole on the forum, I'm going to walk away for a while. This isn't directed at anyone in particular, and the only reason I'm posting at all is so nobody wonders where I've dissappeared to (if anyone would really wonder anyway ) So, have fun guys, just remember, when you ask a question, take the responses with a grain of salt, there seems to be a lot of self proclaimed experts on here lately who, even if their methods work, will be causing you far more work and hassle than necessary, and in some cases, will be detrimental or damaging to your instrument, or financially pointless. Pay attention to the guys you know are capable of this trade and listen to their advice. Remember, post count doesn't mean anything, lots of posts just means somebody likes to type, knowledge is not gained through theory or assumption, it's gained through experience, trial and error, and listening to those who can teach. There is nothing to be gained from not asking questions, but bad advice is just as bad as not asking the question in the first place so be careful. Take care Jeremy

Any paint with high solvents can attack the laquer and cause it to wrinkle or adhere poorly. Laquers will continue to shrink indefinitely so that may be an issue to the smoothness of the finish later. The best bet is to use paint systems designed to work together.

Actually, that is the picture that convinced me it was 2 tone, that is the one where it's obvious to me, but then, I've sprayed a bunch of different bursts and worked with kandy colors time and time again. Still don't know where the black on yellow comes from though.

you can paint anything you want over a poly finish with no issues, painting over a nitro finish can yield very bad results, he never stated any type of paint he wanted to use anyway, but seriously, sanding back to the wood is a poor idea, you're going to be sealing it all again anyway and you don't seal with nitro, so you're using dis-similar materials again anyway. It's just a waste of time unless you want a trans finish. If I was going to bare wood, I would never use 40 grit either, the second you touch the wood you've wrecked the contour, there is on "touching it up" unless you want to alter the shape, once wood is gone it's gone. Anyway, no big deal, just differening opinions I guess.....

WHAT??? It's a 2 tone finish, yellow and the trans red, the color overlap makes the orange. Algee, what are you talking about with the yellow and black edge???? Black and yellow will NEVER make red, ever look at a color wheel? Go through 2nd grade art? The red trans over the yellow trans will easily make the orange, but there is very little orange in this finish if you look closely, the transition is pretty obvious from red into yellow. I don't know where you are getting black over yellow making red though...........

GOd, I've said this a thousand times, and in response to you algee..... DO NOT sand it down to the wood, the ONLY time you should do this is if you want to have a trans finish or the original finish is TOTALLY screwed. The factory paint is the best seal you can get. You take it down to the wood and you just have to seal it all again, not only that, you risk altering the contours etc. It's a pointless waste of time to sand a body down to the wood UNLESS you want to put a transparent finish on. If the factory finish is in good shape with no chips or dings, sand it until it's all over flat with 600 and prime and paint.

Thanks for the info guys, I hate selling guitars that I have no idea what they are

Ok, a couple of things from PM's I've received, first, some more info on the guitar as was received in PM Secondly, I know nothing about these guitars, I know what was paid for this one, and what the bill owed to me is. I'm open to offers as well, I hate to take a loss on the bill owed, but anything is better than nothing. If you are interested, email me with your honest offer, don't send me PM's that insinuate I'm an idiot or trying to rip anyone off. I'm not a gibson person and don't know anything about these guitars. If you're interested, I've been straight up in my description and such, do your homework, and come back to me with a realistic offer. Thanks Jeremy

Sorry, had the year wrong, 1978 is the correct year.

Item for sale: 1978 Gibson Les Paul Pro Description & Condition: Good Player condition, belt buckle rash and a small burn on the body, see pictures. Asking Price: $1200USD My Location: Canada, will ship anywhere at buyers expense Terms of Sale/Purchase: Paypal or certified money order in US funds. Buyer to pay shipping Other Information: This was a guitar a customer of mine won on ebay and had shipped to me, it was destined to be a custom job but he has since dissappeared without a trace, no contact, and an unpaid bill to LGM Guitars. This guitar is now being offered for sale to recover lost costs. The frets look like they've been levelled once but are still in very good condition. As seen in pictures there is a small burn in the body by the toggle switch. There is some belt buckle rash on the back as seen in pictures also. Everything is original as far as I can tell and it also includes the original case. All latches on the case work including the lock latch but there is no key. All hardware is in Very good condition with little to no pitting anywhere. Sadly the guitar is stamped "Second" under the serial number, not sure why really as it is a beautiful example of a Les Paul, my guess is that the mahogany used in the body is not as perfect as some I've seen. But then, comparing a 1978 second to what gibson is putting out today isn't fair, this factory second is far better than the highest end gibsons we see come into the stores here. The guitar is clean, plays great, and has a beautiful tone, I'd keep it except I do not like Les Pauls. For any other questions please email me, post here, send a PM, whatever, you know the drill. PM will likely get the fastest response. Pictures can be seen here http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/Les%20Paul/ Thanks for looking Jeremy