LGM Guitars

so this is legal then? just no clickable?

So far LGM Guitars is a non-profit organization too! LOL Can we still post our business in our signature? Just not as a link? ei ------------------------------------------------------- LGM Guitars turning dreams into reality.......... _____________________________________ but nothing as a clickable link?

oh well, sponsor protection is needed, I wonder if I'll get a new status name on here though? hehehe

I think that's an RG PAINT, ask Kevan, he'd know!

Nope, according to Brian, I handled it correctly, and, I am only waiting on a price from him to become a partner, he is aware, he and I have discussed that.

check your email

Ok, interesting, I just did a search on Yahoo, and found some info, the PRS logo, is in fact a decal that is clear coated over, just like Ibanez, that being the case, forget everything I told you LOL. You could inlay it, but even PRS didn't do that. So, to get a new decal, take your neck with the headstock and no hardware to a local sign shop, they can scan the headstock, and make you a new decal to apply to the refinished headstock. Yes, I could do it, but think about the decal option first if you want to do the veneer yourself as well. If you want it done, just shoot me an email, I don't think I can quote prices in the forum. Jeremy lgm_guitars@hotmail.com

Dave, First of all, believe absolutely nothing you see on Ed Roman's site. The guy is a ****** ***** ******* ***** **** ******* =not a nice man who may not have the best business practises in the world . That said........... Removing the logo is easy, removing it, and salvaging it, near impossible. You can try heating the logo (assuming it's shell) with an iron after removing the finish. This will hopefully melt the epoxy it is held in with. You MAY be able to pry it out with a small pick. Likely, you'll just break it though. You're best option, is make an accurate tracing of it, including locator marks from the headstock. save this template. then, remove the inlay, you will ruin it, but that's ok. Next, you now have a cavity, leave it alone, or fill it with epoxy, your choice. Apply your veneer. Then, place the template you made earlier over the headstock in the exact location again. Transfer the inlay cavity and re-route it, using your tracing, transfer onto a new piece of inlay material, shell etc, and cut a new piece to re-inlay. I think though, that the PRS logo is that really fine gold? You may just need to make an accurate route, and get some gold wire (brass wire is cheaper and easier to find and looks almost identical) to form into the route. Of course, with a custom headstock, I'd opt for a custom PRS inlay anyway EDIT abusive comment

Well, this isn't Jemsite, but how about RG550 parts? I have a body, neck (somewhere) trem, basically everything but the electronics if you are interested. The body is already stripped as well.

I wonder what gauge those strings are? bet it's low action though!

I've never seen a vine that went right through, and I've changed fretboards and vine colors on those. I route as deep as I need to to leave a very small amout of my material above the board to level, for ex, if my material is .050" thick, I'll route .040 - .045 deep. I don't like to go any deeper just because it's a pain, the glow in the dark vine has to be routed .120" deep to keep a good thickness of material to hold the glow charge.

well, for Christmas this year, I had to do something special for a very special little girl. She has become a bigger part of my life than I ever thought anyone could have, I love her more than life itself, she is like a daughter to me, and I wanted to do something special for her, so here is the beginning of her Christmas gift, the detail work and clearcoating is not done, but here it is in the raw stages. Let me know what you think

Think I might have found one dude, thanx though, by the way, word of advice, change the font color, blue on black is way to hard to read

that's what I need, a 43mm chrome lock nut and maybe a string tree if you have one

Ok, so I'm a copy cat, I don't care JEM911USA

yeah, acoustics are fun!!!!!!! I'll be starting another one here in a couple weeks time!!!!!!

out of an aerosol can, I wouldn't be surprised if it takes you a good 15 coats or so to fill the weave. Fabric will absorb alot, and aerosol is the thinnest mix of paint you will find. Spraying with a gun is much simpler, you can lay on a heavier coat without fear of runs like aerosol, I'd say just keep applying it, then sand it lightly to level it, you'll know when you hit the fabric if you go to far.

first of all, the spruce, you can buy it in 1/8" x 1/4" strips from model airplane suppliers, then you can cut yourself a strip 1/8" x 1/32". it won't expand enough that you need to worry about it, and I usually soak it, and put it in the route and let it dry, it won't go all the way in, but once it's dry, it's shrunk back down,and will hold the shape (the truth is, you don't really need to even soak it, but it does curve nicer without kinks) then you can glue the preformed piece in. As for the resin, it's a product that model railroaders use to make lakes and other "bodies of water" it's just an epoxy resin, but it doesn't have that yellowy tinge most epoxies have. It hardens every bit as hard as plexiglass. The problem with using plexiglass and lexans, is not much sticks to them, the bonding becomes an issue. As for the paper, since the resin is in liquid form, you have to lay the paper into the route first, I like to glue it down, then pour the resin on top, but do a test piece first, you want a paper that won't absorb the resin, or it will change the color. Another little secret, to a plastic that will work, but is kind of a pain to use, is cut up a jewel case for a CD. that plastic is crystal clear, polishes up great, and is cheap

Welcome to the Forum!!!

Hey dude, check out the LGM site, you'll see some different examples of the Jem vine. The actual stem, use a single piece of wood the full length, don't try to cut the curves, it is so thin it will bend into the route for the stem no problem. I use spruce usually for the vine, but I have even used Stainless Steel on the Chrome vine I did. soak the stem in hot water for about 10 minutes and put it in your route, it will bend easily. I do mine about 1/32" thick, that way I can use a standard inlay bit to cut the route. The actual Jem vine leaves are neon paper under resin, there is a product called crystal clear that dries dead clear. fill the cavities with that so it's flowing up higher than the fretboard, then warm it just a bit with a hair drier and all the bubbles will come out. Then you level and polish the same as any other material. Jeremy

nope, it definitely has the flat, all my jems have them for sure. if you don't put the flat in, it's not comfy to hold at all, put it in, and don't be afraid to round those edges over, then it's more comfy

I chose custom color, but only because inlay wasn't up there hehehe. I like em alll!!!!!!! (although, I don't seem to have a love affair with the monkey grip LOL)

Looks decent, just remember on the neck relief to make sure it's flat, the neck plate needs to fit there. For the handle, the back still needs the flat cut in it, try the tutorial here. http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/handle.htm

It's in excellent condition, I'll get some pics tomorrow. The only guard I have right now is a Chrome one from a Jem7DBK, it's mint, if you're interested in that, I'll swap for a clear one.

I have a cosmo black Edge trem I wanna sell, $80, interested in that?