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skibum5545

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Everything posted by skibum5545

  1. skibum5545
    Unfortunately, the instructions at EMG's website are for if you plan to use the pups as replacements on a currently routed body. Also, this is my first bass EVER, and since the pickup doesn't come with mounting screws, I know just less than diddly squat. How does the mounting work that you can screw down a screw, and have the pickup follow it, instead of just sitting there in the bottom of the rout? Is there a spring pushing back? Also, is it a wood screw directly into the body, or a machine screw into a nut or insert of some kind? I'm talking SERIOUSLY back to basics here. Sorry to be so naive about this, but a 2nd grade level lesson here would really be a lot of help.
  2. skibum5545
    I have an EMG P-J set of pickups, and am using them in a body I am about to build. However, I can find no mention anywhere of how to install them. For one thing, how deep should the routed cavities be? Also, the pickups I have were purchased used, and did not come with installation instructions or adjustment screws. Is there any place where I can buy new screws, or any screws I could buy from a hardware store? What would be great is a step-by-step description of going from paper to router to installing the pickups. I couldn't find a tutorial on the site. Thanks!
  3. skibum5545
    We also spent hundreds of millions (if not billions) putting a man on the moon, but hey, if you can get the government to put you in their budget, props to you! One small spin for mankind, one giant spin for staplockkind (or something like that).
  4. skibum5545
    Unfortunately, the bandsaw isnt in working order (and yes, it's a Delta). My dad got it from a friend many years ago, and never got around to fixing it. Luckily, a carpenter friend of ours will be able to use his bandsaw to cut out the body for us. And the 60's will NEVER DIE!
  5. skibum5545
    I got my wood planed today, will start building the body next week (school's off for midwinter break). Me and my black walnut. It's 1.75" thick, and we'll be using about 24 inches out of the middle. While we were at the mill (whitmore lake, MI) we bought from them a piece of 1/8" thick wenge for the control cavity cover: This is the wenge (left) and the walnut (right) side by side, with a little water on them to add some color, and give an idea of what they'll look like when completed.
  6. skibum5545
    Hey man! Happy b-day, and keep crankin out those killer guit of yours for many more!
  7. skibum5545
    Icemans (Icemen?) are pretty tight, I'll admit. They'd be a pretty cool shape base for a guinea pig guitar: experimentally progressive, yet still very sleek.
  8. skibum5545
    Actually, I was lucky enough to see Wooten do it live in concert. Pretty tight trick, but it can't be overused. Anyway, Vic doesn't needstage gimmicks. not to imply that it's cheap, but he's a good enough bassist that he can do without.
  9. skibum5545
    To be honest I'm not sure what punchy means. I just read that description somewhere, sorry!
  10. skibum5545
    I have heard that it has a punchy tone; i think it was used for early stingray basses. There was an earlier thread here. Scroll down and there's a lot of talk about poplar
  11. skibum5545
    I have been looking at rockler lately, but ebony has been back-ordered for months now. I was thinking of just gluing ebony veneer on the face of another thin piece of wood, but you're right, all I REALLY want is 1/8" ebony.
  12. skibum5545
    hmm... how big is the average control cavity cover on a bass (for a rear rout), and would that cover it?
  13. skibum5545
    Does anyone know where to get really thin ebony (gaboon, i think, black ebony anywho)? I only need a small patch, maybe 4 in x 6 in.
  14. skibum5545
    Actually that would be a rather tight badge... I say give it to him, but that's just me!
  15. skibum5545
    Have you considered walnut? Inexpensive, and looks really nice with maple! Other than that, I'd go with purpleheart, or if money is no object, even ebony.
  16. skibum5545
    When practicing your routering, is it important to use the same kind of wood that you are using for your body, or will a different scrap hardwood do?
  17. skibum5545
    A friend of mine has/had (I haven't seen him in a while) a clear lucite (or other plastic, I'm not sure) BC rich Warlock guitar. It actually sounded pretty sweet. This was back when I knew very little about tone, sustain, etc., and although I can't define in detail the sound, it sounded very good. I've been thinking it'd be cool to get a glass shop around town to make me a cut crystal body... expensive, but way cool.
  18. skibum5545
    Amen to that! Sounds kinda like one of Warmoth's Dinky P bodies sounds awesome, good luck!
  19. skibum5545
    Pretty sweet, dude! I'm 15 too, gonna start work on my first bass in about a week (mid-winter school break). It sounds like it was pretty smooth sailing, but do you have any tips from first hand experience that might come in handy for a first- timer?
  20. skibum5545
    WHERE THE HELL IS EDDIE VH!!!!!?!!!?!?!?!!!!?!! I CAN'T WORK WITH THESE PEOPLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  21. skibum5545
    Poplar isn't dark per se, I read that early Stingrays were poplar, which helped give it its punchy tone
  22. skibum5545
    i dont know much about guit bridges, but i like the table!
  23. skibum5545
    I like the stainless idea. One guy I know simply filed his frets off, leaving only the tangs (?) in the slots. He did it to his Warwick, too, which is braver than I'll ever be...
  24. skibum5545
    this should do it... It was in the Project Guitar Ref section.
  25. skibum5545
    assuming the neck pocket is standard to something or another(strat or otherwise), MAKE SURE you have the pocket size and depth correct. I also assume that the truss rod access is at the headstock not the body. If at the body, gluing on the neck isn't too smart... Also, if necessary, check the neck angle in accordance with the bridge. Good Luck! PS if you decide to go with a design that would require taking the neck off and putting it back on multiple times, have you considered using threaded inserts? $.02
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