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soapbarstrat

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Everything posted by soapbarstrat

  1. soapbarstrat
    I think others have suggested ways in which you can make the ferrules look perfect even in your given situation. If those methods still need to "sink in", you can always , for now, slip small washers onto the ball-ends of the strings, and string the sucker up without added ferrules.
  2. soapbarstrat
    I've seen these "bars" that can be inlayed in the back of the guitar. Of course this bar has recessed holes, so it's doing the same thing the ferrules do, just that it's a one piece unit instead of six individual units. Can't think of what the damn thing is called.
  3. soapbarstrat
    Yeah, I did that, but maybe the conductive part went into a really thin layer that dried hard on the bottom. I didn't pour it all out of the can to see if something like that was going on. Can't find that can now. I sort of remember a while back I shook it and it was just dried chunks rattling around in there. Maybe took it when they had that hazardous materials drop-off.
  4. soapbarstrat
    I had less than 1/2 a can of the conductive paint sitting around for several years and found out of wasn't conductive anymore. I also didn't like how you'd paint it on end-grain and had to recoat 'cause it would soak in so much. Down-side to the foil is I've found the adhesive doesn't hold up too well. I think right now, I might have a piece loose in my guitar hitting the pickup switch and killing my neck pickup !. But I like the foil better. It's either there or it ain't. Or in other words, "what you see is what you get" with the foil. I mean ever since I had that paint loose conductivity, the paint is too mysterious for me now. I also like add-ons that can be completely taken back out easily. A little glue next time I have that guitar opened, and I should be good. Not going to even bother checking if copper film is still conductive !
  5. soapbarstrat
    Never mind. Didn't realize your smaller holes were off. Was going to suggest the pin in the DP table trick to center 'em.
  6. soapbarstrat
    Doubt any regulars on this board have a Suhr. If you want to find more Suhr owners than you ever wanted to, go over to the Gear page. Average member there has Suhrs, Andersons, etc etc coming and going. Also good chance if you'd go to Suhr's own forum, he might give you those specs.
  7. soapbarstrat
    Don't have the bass they were on, so I don't know.
  8. soapbarstrat
    Phil Mailloux had one bored out bigger to fit his chop saw. He's in the land of Oz too, so maybe he can tell you where he had his done. Google his name (he has a website), or look him up here at this forum.
  9. soapbarstrat
    Measured 2 strings off a 30" scale bass. Got 31.5" between ball and where full thickness wind ends.
  10. soapbarstrat
    Found a JRC386D on an old PC modem board. The MPF102 might be the only thing for this project not in my junkyard of electronics parts, but I'll keep looking. Anybody know how low I can go on the voltage rating of the C8 220uf cap ? (yes, I'm too stupid about electronics to answer this myself).
  11. soapbarstrat
    Corian is my zodiac sign.
  12. soapbarstrat
    When I saw that pic, first thing that came to mind was a new project to go into the box that I had built my "tube screamer" into years ago (it died, plus it was too "over the top" sound-wise). Was originally one of these Escort radar detectors Cast aluminum, with plastic front and back (which I replaced with aluminum), and little shallow "tracks" inside where a circuit board can be suspsended if made the right size to fit. A little bigger than 1x4x5 (inches), and of course a long-shot any of us can find any, but a good head start if you can get a free one.
  13. soapbarstrat
    Did Modulus start using truss-rods at some point ? I'm only "familiar" with Modulus necks with no truss-rod. And if they did start using truss-rods, is it like Stew's 2 way ? Just saying, 'cause if you're trying to copy a certain neck for a certain sound (being more so in this case, since a graphite/phenolic combo would be quite consistent from one neck to another , unlike wooden necks), then you could be changing how the neck will make the instrument sound.
  14. soapbarstrat
    Yes, Memorial Day. Even though he's buried about 2 miles from here, I'm still afraid of that particular 'iron fist' Grandfather, so I guess his excuse to kick my ass from beyond the grave will just have to continue. By the way, I was checking out the 7/8" fret-board over-hang extension at the heel end of that neck on the bottom, and noticed that I had roughed up the surface of the phenolic before gluing. I guess I didn't trust the shiney smooth surface it came with and maybe it was a wise choice, since nothing has ever gone wrong with the glue joint. Looks like about 120 grit scratches.
  15. soapbarstrat
    If only all the companies that you actually wanted something from, would see you as a business worth dealing with. But, I keep getting these damn catalogs from these Industrial warehouse safety and company uniforms, etc places. If it wasn't such a waste of paper it would be funny. I even email them to say take me off their mailing list and they keep sending the catalogs anyway. Maybe they know something I don't ? Maybe next time I spill a few drops of super-glue I would really be better off to bring out the big orange cones and warning posters ? Isolate that area of the workshop, Maybe have a couple drum barrels of some special clean-up foam on hand to really get the tragic spill under control ?
  16. soapbarstrat
    Too bad the previous owner didn't put the ' Wake me before you sell my guitar for $4.00' sticker on there.
  17. soapbarstrat
    I meant *when SS frets were hard to find*. They're easy to find now (except I got mine much cheaper). Maybe when you contact companies, you should mention you need the phenolic for building a bass. If the person is a music fan, or part-time musician, they might bend the rules for you. Keep it short and friendly. Americans have an extremely short attention span and get rubbed the wrong way easily. 3/16" thick is too thin for a bass, IMO. But maybe this ebay guy has something else closer to what you need that he doesn't have listed. In case the link don't work : Item number: 190305589680 NorVa Plastics
  18. soapbarstrat
    Just keep contacting every company you can find on the internet. Glad it wasn't that hard when I bought phenolic. I paid $6.00 per board, so I thought it was worthwhile to experiment with. I had thought I paid $14.00 per board, but that was what real ebony was selling for at the time. Funny how my brain stuck the price from one onto another. I have spent great lengths of time trying to get supplies. When stainless frets were only available to big companies, I spent 2 years trying to track down the sources. (not 2 years full time, but you know what I mean). There have been other things that I had to give up on. Sometimes it was for the best, because there's been a few things I realized I was better off not getting. It would really be best for a supplier to cut the pieces for you. That Phenolic is a little hard on blades.
  19. soapbarstrat
    There are companies that cut to size, and ship anywhere, so it seems, by what I've come across on google. Maybe contact this place : http://www.professionalplastics.com/ All those little flags looked so festive, that I spun round and round in my swivel chair. Felt just like being at a theme park. I doubt this helps, but I've heard from some that black paper phenolic has also been called 'ebonol '. If you do finally find a workable deal from a supplier, don't forget that maybe you need some other plastics materials too, like white rod for dots, etc
  20. soapbarstrat
    End grain is where you can wet first to keep it from sucking up too much stain.
  21. soapbarstrat
    You could have also put a "zero fret" right there at the end of the fret-board, and then a string spacer somewhere behind that. I'm sure glad the older members get paid royalties whenever these old threads get brought back from the dead.
  22. soapbarstrat
    The European thing makes it rough, I see. Have you asked Martin Koch if he's ever bought Phenolic in Europe ? I once contacted him about finding tools in Europe and he was quite nice (he had a funny story about what it took for him to buy an Austrian made drill bit [ even though he lives in Austria !] ). Thomas Dramm is another European Luthier (an innovative one too). Can't think of any others off the top of my head, but just thinking what murder the shipping would be for a huge sheet from the US. Plus the paper phenolic is certainly not damage proof. I could imagine a huge sheet getting busted into pieces during a long journey.
  23. soapbarstrat
    sounds to me like you better get a milling machine.
  24. soapbarstrat
    He did get it wrong. Reverse slant rules.
  25. soapbarstrat
    Modulus used to sell seperate graphite/epoxy bass bridges, but maybe only through dealers, but it *was* a part. So maybe a fret-board blank isn't too "out there" (even more so in bad economic times when factory supplies start gathering dust) How about the 'talk bass' forum ? Perhaps a member there has some extra phenolic.
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