john
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Everything posted by john
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by the way , the clear i use smells really sweet if that means anything, more of a sugary smell than any other paints. john.
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woa , am i mixing up the terms lacquer and clear ? because nowhere on my paint does it say lacquer( i imagined that word into existence i think!) just ms clear, so its not lacquer im using? sorry so many questions , just trying to get a factory finish!
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Hi jeremy ,just a few more question for ya if you dont mind, Im still a little confused about the different types of lacquer, i use either u-pol system-20 MS super clear lacquer or Lechler Acrifan Ms Acryllic lacquer. so are these polyurethane or acrylllic or both? they are 2 part (2:1 paint/hardner) and we use them for painting cars. When we do a car it hardens up very nicely, but when i paint a guitar in the stuff it does`nt seem to ever go fully hard, whats going on? i recently finished my 2nd guitar and brought it to my friends band practice for him to use. After 3 hours of use the back of it is heavily marked from his belt buckle(which was not in direct contact with the lacquer) i am not using any sanding sealer or grain filler, i am using lacquer to seal and fill the grain, is this the problem? Thanks in advance, john.
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beautiful man! absolutely great , i especially like the myrtle top tele! do you mind if i ask where you get your awesome woods? john.
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yeah i`d be interested in maple neck blanks too , approx 4" x 1" x 27"
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i reckon the intonation will be bad, just like my cheap classical which has a straight un-compensated bridge. if its like that, it may be worth repositioning the bridge saddle.
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i think its actually 2001, from what ive read, the current gibsons age can be told from the 1st and 5th digit of the serial no. , in your case thats '01. but i may be wrong.
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how about tapering the whole plank using a joiner or hand plane and then adding 'ears' to the headstock later? dunno if that answering your question or not , tis a tough one! john.
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on my last guitar i did it this way: 1/ plane the fingerboard to correct taper(very easy cos its small) 2/ glue the fingerboard in place 3/ run the router with a ball-bearing bit down the length of the neck with the bearing riding on the side of the fingerboard 4/ stand back in amazement at how simple that really was! but there are many ways to do it, this is just my preferred method.
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thanks for the link butcherboy!
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hey feylya, you in ireland? im studying Electronic Engineering, going into 4th year in oct. As for the wood ,i got it free! my sister moved into a new apartment block last year and the wood was found in the skip, the reason i know it was iroko is that she is an architect working for the company who designed the building so she knew exactly what it was! it was a stair-thread. so far i have not had to buy any wood axept for a rosewood fingerboard blank from stewmac.. how lucky i am. john.
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there are pics of the bass here: http://www.redbrick.dcu.ie/~daveyj/ i have not yet taken pics of the new guitar, but here is a link to the description of the wood: http://www.rampartguitars.com/w_E-Ki_3.htm john.
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Hi all, just back from paris, today i put the hardware(execpt elec.) onto my new neckthru prs style guitar and strung it up. i was fully expecting to have to tighten the truss rod as is usual, but..... NO! this wood is seriously strong! The wood is around 80 deg. quarter sawn, so the grain is pretty good for the strength. you guys gotta give it a go, It is a beautiful Golden colour when lacquered and if left natural it will eventually turn very dark. i have used it on my 4-string bass also and i am really impressed with the tone of the beast! john
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Got bored... so the strat copped it!!!
john replied to Matia's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
You guys forced me to go to a local music store and ritually burn their entire Ibanez stock!!! Wht yes, thats.... thats a good idea! burn Ibanez`s!!!! -
if its a roof joist , then it is more than likely white deal(a name in ireland and uk for Norway spruce) it is a really crappy wood, i would`nt even use it for a toilet seat!
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my frienf has an epiphone sg and as far as i can remember it is rearward facing on the rear of the upper horn or somewhere near the neck joint. on the same subject, Does anyone know if i will have any problems putting in a strap button angled slightly upwards, about 5 degrees from horizontal ? would this cause the strap to come loose? john.
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Hello André, Go to www.guitarbuild.com , they have a .dxf autocad plan for a standard telecaster available free to download. you will need to register on the website first. hope that helps.
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yeah, i personally would make new neck, but sure if not why not!
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it would easy enough to remove fretboard and add a shim to thicken up the neck, then replace the board an reprofile the neck to your own liking.
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seperated headstock? they are the perfect size to make a fender style neck. they have a larger blank(mahogany) that can be used for a 2 piece(glue in neck)
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its down to personal preference really! , i prefer linear pots! what it means is, on a linear pot ,if you turn it half way down, the volume will halve(in theory) but with logarithmic pots if yoy turn them down half way, the volume is still around 3/4 or thereabouts, it changes at an inverse-exponential rate, such that most of the difference occurs nearer to the end of the turn. but i may be wrong! sorry if this is confusing
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i`d like to try that sometime, anyone know how its done?
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Can you send it to me too derek? john.davey2@mail.dcu.ie thanks.
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and its a lot easier to make a neck with a seperate fretboard!
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Ali, dont foget that those blanks are intended to have a fingerboard glued to them, which would give you the extra thickness you desire.