killemall8
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Everything posted by killemall8
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I have learned that tearout pretty much only comes from 2 variables, separate or combined. Taking off too much material at once, in terms of the amount away from the template. Going too fast. If you go go fast around any place with end grain or runout, you are going ot get tearout. You have to go really slow on those parts. It may burn, but burn is better than tearout.
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Haha, as true as that is, i dont think the customers quite feel the same way.
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Thanks scott. Construction and visually this is probably my favorite i have ever made. I wanted to shoot it with poly, but since i already waxed and buffed it, I can guarantee i would get fisheyes everywhere.
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So here is a mockup. Looks cool, but i always make the stupidest decisions regarding finishes. I should have done this one the way i normally do, with a open grain satin poly. But nope, i had to be an idiot and try to do an oil finish because people have been suggesting it. So now i have a very sticky, easily fingerprinted, very easily scratched finished guitar.
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Do you see the gorilla with wings?
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Thanks scott. I always dye or stain the top before i sand the rest of the guitar. So if i get bleed through onto the bevels, it gets sanded off.
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Fortunately all the problems ended up not being an issue, aside from the ferrules being to small for the holes. Messed around with some oil and dye, and this is hwat i got.
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I also dont get how this happened... I drilled the holes for the string ferrules on the back. They were to big for the holes, they are a strange size. So i spent forever finding a bit that would fit them. I found a bit that was just a hair bigger than the previous hole, and of course, now they fit insanely loose, after i couldnt force them in if i tried. So there goes that part. Now i will have to find a way to line up a retainer bar.
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I got the rest of the construction work done on this one. Just glued the neck in now. Like always, i screwed up a few things. I always take the volute area and the heel area down to almost exact thickness before i start carving, so i can connect the two areas. About every other guitar i screw up the thickness. Its always the same thing. Check with caliper, too thick. check with caliper, barley any difference, too thick. check with caliper, .1" too thin. Every time. So the neck on this is probably screwed. It will be thinner at body joint than what it should be at hte first fret. Go me! Cant wait to be done building. In other news, just glued up another blank.
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So here are some pics. The mahogany in the neck has some dang good color and grain.
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I have gotten some work done on the first explorer. I decided to try something new with the neck blank. I made it a 9 piece, counting the veneers. Came out kinda cool. I also used a longer version of my headstock deisgn, the tuners fit better. I am still deciding on what kind of finish i will do on this. I am still leaning towards oil.
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Thanks. From the side it is kind of scooped. It is deepest in the center and tapers out leaving the edges thicker as you go further out. I'll get a picture tomorrow.
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Most of the time a 13" planer is actually more like 12 7/8" wide. Mine is a few clicks under 13". It is pretty rough putting a whole body through a planer that size that takes up every bit of the blades. I have done it, but it really puts a lot of stress on the planer. You really cant do any Vs or explorers with one that small. They wont fit at all. YOu will have to plane each piece separately and level by hand or by another method after.
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Finally picked up some more wood for my last few builds of the year. I got a wide mahogany board that i thought i coudld get necks out of at hte same time, but it was just a bit too narrow. Also, after using that unrealistically light mahogany, this stuff is heavier than average, which makes it feel insanely heavy. Threw a quilted sapele veneer on this one too. This one will be a 26.2" scale. We'll see how that sounds and feels at C standard tuning. Also threw a big bevel into the back. And here is a test piece with some black/ grey dye. Looks insanely intense. But of course, with an oil finish it looks pale right after it dries.
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Pretty much all ibanez necks and bodies are interchangable. AS long as they all have the same amount of frets and heel shape.
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eek, yeah i would stick to the bandsaw. I dont see any reason to try a different method. The strat looks well made. But i was never a fan of combining natural woods with painted finishes.
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You have to be careful using a ROS on the sides, or anywhere on a guitar really. It will cut more on the softer grain and leave it wavy. I stopped using them on any guitar years ago.
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Bought these with the intention of building a 7 string, which i no longer want to do. They DO come with the connector wires, i just didnt picture them. Post here or message me if you are interested.
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There wasnt any stain added to that. I sealed it with epoxy then sanded it flat. Sprayed a few coats of 2k clear, waited for it to dry, then leveled it. Then i hit it with the black burst then clear coated again. Even through a coat of epoxy and a sealer coat of 2k, it still sunk in and the grain shows through the clear now.
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When done right, it looks amazing. Check out what i did with my last guitar and redwood burl that looks similar.
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You would need 3 different input jacks.
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Just a heads up, unless you really seal the crap out of that redwood, it will sink into it forever. It is like a sponge. Even after epoxy and 2k clear, it still sunk into the shape of the grain on my last guitar.
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I have never actually tried shellac. I was going to buy some of the bullseye shellac, but read the can and it said not to use under poly as a sealer or base. I am pretty sure it was the dewaxed kind.
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Looks good so far. Just a tip for veneer, you dont need anywhere near that amount of tape. I only use like 5 small pieces run vertically along the join. Also, looks like they werent quite flat or square to each other. Next time clamp them together between 2 pieces of wood and use a long sanding block to get them flat.
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I have used many different pore fillers. All have the same affect. They all still shrink back even though they claim they wont. I have used that exact epoxy before. The epoxy i currently used is extremely low viscosity, and is meant to be poured and used as a finish.
