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Phil Mailloux

Blues Tribute Group
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Everything posted by Phil Mailloux

  1. Thats not a finish. That'a a polishing compound to make your guitar shiny once you've finished with... the finishing read all the finishing tutorial on the LMII site after that you should have an idea what to do. http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/FinishOverview.htm
  2. Drak, I'm interested in finding out more about catalized finishes. Did you use that stuff on this beautiful "Bones" super-high-gloss wet-looking sunburst? (guitar of the month for August) What do you use? Where do you get it? Is it expensive? Any new or special equipment needed? What's all the extra precautions we should take? I've heard face mask, body suit, maybe a dedicated room? explosion proof vent? Anything else?
  3. I doubt it, there's no 3-way switch and there's a coil splitter. But he can find the proper diagrams at guitarelectronics.com
  4. Nah, i'll stick with my original sunburst idea. i like that better I'm picking up my brand spankin' new el-cheapo compressor next monday. Can't wait!!
  5. Thanks Killahworm, but there's no finish whatsoever What you see is the body that was sanded back to wood. The darker spots are simply the spots where the sanding sealer/wood filler is incrusted inside the grain.
  6. So if I understand properly,"grey-remover" is actually lacquer retarder, right?
  7. and spacers for the HB, then again you can always make wooden ones.
  8. Hey guys, Well I finally got a digital camera a couple of weeks ago. I figured why not post a picture of where i'm at This is my first instrument. I stole the body design from Warrior Instruments' Signature models (www.warriorinstruments.com) Its a bolt-on maple / purpleheart 3-ply neck with Pau Ferro fingerboard and mahogany body. The sole pickup will be a homemade musicman humbucker type with alnico 5 rods. I originally sunbursted the thing but after 2 failed attempts I sanded the whole thing back to wood (see other thread somewhere else here about my sunburst screw ups) I started this bass in december and will be probably ready in a month or two. I'm on a strict monthly budget here (The wife, ya know!) or this would've been done faster Not to count that I started this project with NOTHING which means more than 70% of the costs went into tools
  9. Jeezus H Christ Drak!!! 10 bodies!!!! and this in the summer of '99!!!! I read on a different thread that you'd never dream of selling one of your "babies" Would you care to tell me how many homemade guitars now fill your basement and probably everything else in your house????
  10. Hi kench, My german is non-existant but I noticed that the cans of Clou are written in both french and german. Since french is my first language you can write down what it says in french on the cans and i'll translate it for you.
  11. That's perfect. Clou is what I use for nitro-cellulose. "matt" is the satin finish one. The high gloss one is "einkoponent glanzend nitro lak". At least it's what its writen on my can.
  12. Yes, I've seen a webpage before where someone had build a sort of fence to be able to join with a router table. It was on a woodworker's site. Make a couple of google searches, who knows what you'll find.
  13. 4 washers and 4 screws. That's what I have on my Ibanez SR800le I like ferrules better. Get them from LMII or stewmac (one size fits all) while you're there grab the neck screws at the same time. You can buy a neck plate at stewmac for a couple of bucks too. It's pretty much a question of what you like best. They're both pretty cheap and easy to install. I bought the LMII powdered dyes and never got them to work properly. So I ended up buying stewmac's liquid dyes and I love them.
  14. Gamma had a Ferm router on sale for 35€ not long ago. I don't think you'll find it though, it's probably sold-out. I know Praxis sells another no-name cheap one for 65€, it even comes with 10 different bits and it's better quality than the Ferm one. Bosch makes very good routers and sell one at 99€ at Praxis. Pine (vuurhout) just like multiplex is not really recommended. Where are you? I'm in Den Haag.
  15. I think you'd be much better off with any other hardwood than multiplex. If you can't afford a router you might want to look into using a chisel, rasps and files. It's a lot more work but you can still get decent results. Look at the stratocaster and les paul "built the hard way" tutorial on the main site. Where are you located Zeegeit? Zeegeit: translated from Dutch = Sea Goat (go figure) Could you be in Holland? If so you might want to check out the A'dam fijnhouthandel or the Arnhem fijnhouthandel. You'll get ash, maple or mahogany there (or whatever else) for a body for probably around 30€ If not you can find meranti pretty much in any Gamma or Praxis for pretty cheap. It's not a tone wood and probably not recommended but I found a website of someone who did build a bass out of meranti once and he seemed to like it.
  16. Here goes: 1. Take this image; http://www.myrareguitars.com/airlinewshires.html 2. Throw it into photoshop 3. stretch it until it measures the same as a full size instrument. To do that calculate the distance from the nut to the bridge (likely 24 3/4" or 25 1/4 or whatever) 4. print the body on 4 sheets, tape, cut-out and voila! one full size paper body template
  17. Oops! I just noticed you had asked them the question already. Anyway, these guys know a lot more than you're likely to find here. If you own one of those pickups you might want to study it a bit. Find out how its built, what the output is and all other specs. That'll help you. If you haven't built pickups yet I would suggest reading up on the subject first.
  18. This is the pickup builders forum: http://www.firebottle.com/fireforum/fireBB...m=pmgd&enter=go You might be luckier there.
  19. Go to: http://p219.ezboard.com/fthedudepitfrm30 This is the dudepit's music man forum, make a search. They've discussed this hundreds of times. The general answer from these guys is that the stock pickup is better. But then again this IS the MM forum so these guys might be a little bit biased
  20. A neck through body guitar usually has an angled neck or the neck is cut so that it is higher than the body part. (to present the string to the bridge at proper height) It's definitely not recommended to use a one inch thick maple board. You couldn't make a good angled neck guitar by glueing a few boards of wood to make up for body thickness. The top part where the neck is would be too weak. The easiest would be to use your 1" thick maple board for a neck and build a separate body. You could also make a neck-through guitar by cutting your 1" X 6" boards in the length and glueing them in laminates. Three or four 1" X 3" X 40" boards glued together should be allright. The 3" of thickness is also deep enough to give you an angled neck and an angled peghead.
  21. have a look at www.stewmac.com They're the best place to buy anything related to guitar making. At the level you're at you definitely need to read a guitar building book. It'll clarify everything. You can choose from a couple of different books on the stewmac site. The best one was already mentioned (Hiscock) And read every tutorial on the project guitar main site
  22. Don't forget that the B+ and the filter caps can very often carry upwards of 800 volts, a hell of a lot more than your average tv, vcr of even household electricty switch. Be sure you know ALL of the safety rules.
  23. I'm building my first bass, I totally screwed up my neck had to start from scratch again but that was allright cuz I got to make the neck like I REALLY wanted it in the end. Also screwed up my finish on the body twice, had to sand back to wood both times
  24. The pickups are placed at a certain spot for the proper sound that they're supposed to make. It's not a good thing to place them somewhere else. Take a picture of a P-bass somewhere and calculate where the pups are installed. You should install them in the same spot. If by that you mean that you want to bolt them directly on top of the body that's also a no-no. The height is ajustable with screws just like any other single coil or humbucker pup. I'm afraid you'll have to do those routs To make your life easier just think of a bass as a big-ass guitar and make the same preparations you would do if you were to build a guitar. i.e. check your templates, dimensions, make sure where the routs need to be ect...
  25. LOL, apparently the maker tried to make P-style pickups but with the wrong bobbins. I wouldn't advise just sticking in new pole pieces. I doubt that would work. Either the wires will be in the way of the empty holes or you will have to rewind the whole pickup if you add the pieces. If you DO add pieces and rewind the whole thing you will end up with something very different (in sound) to what you've got now. By the looks of this bobbin it would look more like a J-type humbucker It's your choice if you want the easy way out and buy something or if you like to experiment with pickup building/rewinding
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