Phil Mailloux

Looks like no one's interested in trading tapes and dvd's from my other post I'm now selling this tape. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=7418902434

Bump.

I'm interested in trading my 5 videos/dvd's I've had them for a while and seen them numerous times. I want the info I don't have, that's why I want to trade those videos for those I don't have. I am not interested in selling them. Only trade What I have: -Spray Finishing Basics, video -Sunburst Finishing, video -Using the Erlewine Neck Jij, video -Larry Robinson, Intermediate Inlays, video -Fret Basics, DVD What I really want: -electric maintenance and setup 1 and 2 -advanced fretting 1 and 2 -nut making I'll probably be interested in most guitar making videos stewmac also carries. Please don't bother to ask to trade with anything else than whats mentionned here. Please PM me with your offers.

Makes sense, in my application my neck was unfretted and I followed the main site's tutorial. There was indeed some cupping of the fretboard but nothing that couldn't be fixed by clamping it flat for a few days.

You're steaming the wood a lot more than you're heating it. As a matter of fact DON'T heat the neck, you can burn the wood. Let as much steam flow from the iron and work slowly. It took me about 15 minutes to get the whole thing off when I did that. No point in trying other techniques that might not work as well and scrap you neck in the process. As for heating a knife to melt the glue, don't forget the glue line is usually invisible on a fingerboard/neck joint. The steam from the iron softens it which is what gives you space to start pushing in a blade or scraper.

Depends what you want to do with it. I will only use it for binding bodies and necks, I don't do acoustics. My option is Stewmac because I just want the bit with one bearing for now and plan on getting additional bearings as I need them. I just can't afford the whole set and would never use it to its full extent anyway. At $11.25 per bearing the lmi set is too much for me, stewmac's $5.60 is better in my application. On top of that there's always the option of putting a couple of layers of tape on a bearing to make a smaller cut instead of buying more bearings. Additional, looking at the lmi picture, I think their bit looks sorta dodgy, I like the look of the stew mac one (I'm sure it works fine though before I get flamed)

I'll be sure to ask for them next time I'm in an hardware store

wow... they must have some serious overstock

Thanks for the tip, Meguiar's one of the products I can get locally that I've thought of using, probably be trying that one. Did you have problems shipping stewmac's compounds to Holland? (Isn't that flammable?)

Thanks for the compliment Wez, I just had a look at the progress section and I must say I'm impressed too. You've got some nice instruments there Sounds like good advice to me I wish I could have the time or money to build 20 also

Very nice gloss to that guitar Mattia, what's your wet sanding/buffing routine?

20 guitars! You didn't feel comfortable selling them before number 20! I don't know about you but I'm starting my third one and I plan on selling it already. But then again I'm confused, you say you built 20 but that it's taken you 3 years of building to get there on average 7 guitars a year for three years.... I don't know if I'm getting this correctly or not, please tell me if i'm not. The way I see it (for the original poster) when you start building take your time and try to do the best you can, don't rush it. Concentrate on making the best instrument you can. Don't think:"next one will be better" and rush to start another one. Make sure the one you're doing NOW is the perfect one. You learn tons during your first build, If you're good at analizing what went wrong with it and making sure the next one's good and if you're as good at making a setup as building an instrument then there's no reason why you couldn't sell your 2nd, 3rd or 4rth instrument. I don't know how rich some of you are but it costs me 700$AUD of material to build a bass, bear in mind that I build my own pickups so I save the complete price of them or that number would be 200-300$ higher If I have to wait to build 20 to sell one (20 X 700$ = 14000$) then I'll still be here in 20 years No way in hell my wife will let me spend that on a hobby

Looks like the add you're running in Australian Guitar mag is paying up, you need an aprrentice now. Good on ya mate!

If you want to see what you're in to to build a winder with a sewing machine motor, here's a picture of Jason Lollar's book. It's a bit more complicated than just sticking a bobbin on it. If you really want to get started winding for really cheap and don't want to spend time building this thing then let me show you my setup (until last year) right here It's a simple hand drill with a sanding attachment. The bobbin is stuck on it with double-sided tape. The paint roller is holding the wire bobbin. One bobbin takes me 15-20 minutes to wind. Right here, is a picture of me in action.

Carba-tec is the place to go my man! They've got Titebond (all versions), hot stuff CA glue, shellac, hide glue pellets, tons of luthier friendly tools including those violin maker planes, lots of guitar building books and more! For the sandpaper look up those car places as mentioned, they've got all 3M products including those blue or green binding tapes, sandpaper, polishing pastes ect...

I completely disagree. I completely agree... with Setch

Sorry, I don't cook outside of work hours, the wife does that. I'll buy the peanuts to go with that beer

It's a deal!

Whatever happened to that beer we were going to drink in The Hague last year?

Here's more of my take on that too 99% of the maple necks out there aren't figured, obviously you don't need figured maple for your neck. You can use this wood in laminates if you plane it flat first. Whether you want to add contrasting layers of veneer or figured woods to it is fine but you can also only use the maple by itself. By gluing several laminates of that wood (planed flat first) together you'll end up with a much stiffer neck than if you used it on it's flat side.

In my personal opinion, it's a bad idea to try to straighten a neck blank. Buy one thats fine in the first place, don't try to fix a lower quality piece, it'll end up being a lower quality neck if you do. Use that wood for laminates or jigs or whatever.

Definitely the first link, the second one will screw up your bass big time. Use a 30 watt soldering iron. It's not really explained in the first link but what you need to do is stroke your fret (going up and down) to warm it. Once you feel it get warm and start smelling the wood burning (a few seconds) then it's time to pull your fret out with end nippers by squeezing gently under the fret. DO NOT pull out the fret once you gripped it. Just let the nipper squeeze it out by squeezing it in different places in the length of it ( the fret, that is) What the soldering iron does is melt whatever glue that might have been used to put the frets it and lightly burns the wood of the fretboard which helps prevent chipping of your fb when you pull out those frets. If you see any chips come out, glue them back in right away before you go on.

This is the best part of the Alembic website. Click on a link and see an Alembic being built.

Thats David Myka's setup he stuffs it up his drill press. I think that pic is in his big archtop guitar building tutorial thread.

There was this beautiful tutorial here made by Jay5 but unfortunately it seems that the pics are gone from his picture server. Maybe if you ask him nicely he can send them to you. Here's the thread in question http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...4098&hl=stewmac