black_labb

looks like a bigger version of the guitar im working on. similar idea with the shape and the deep heel. being a guitar i will be putting my neck pup on the neck itself, as it is closer to the neck. im not nearly as far along as you as ive had a busy semester at uni. here is the body only, havent done much other than working on the inlay on the fretboard.my walnut body i would be estatic if mine ended up as clean as yours.

it would be possible, but id suggest to just rewind it, but that depends on what you are using to wind it. if you are going to wind it by putting it onto a drill chuck or similar, then id do the whole thing, but if you were thinking of doing it by hand completely, then messing around with the soldering suddenly seems like an easy, not too time consuming job.

a 12 string, that has a 6 string headstock + neck ferrules for the octae strings, and with a homemade tuning mechanism (got the concept in my head, started drawing it all out but not to scale). would be a neck through and a shape silimar to a les paul special (double cutaway) a 6 string bass for the bass player in my band quite possibly. ill make the pickups aswell as a preamp so that it is suitable for such a range of frequencies. probably make it so that it can be tuned to EADGBE , where the DGBE are a few half steps below the normal bass tuning. would work well as he is primarily a guitarist (alot better than me too) to simplify playing and remembering scales. my current guitar is pretty unique in its construction, its a bolt on, with a deep and odd shaped join, with the neck pickup on the neck. im pretty psyched on it. it wont look amazingly unique, kinda uniqueish shape though. it is walnut and does have a nice figure so it wont be boring to look at either

that sounds good, do you know where i colud find a schematic for that? thanks basically you want take the 2 pups toy want to do it with and make it so that the leads coming out (other than the ground) are attached twice, not sure how you would want to do it but there are a few ways, take the second pair, and put them so that the 2 are in series (from one to the other) behind eachother, (make sure its start to end into the start then the end, as opposed to start to end to end to start) then run that to one selection of the dpdt switch, and run the other wiring to the other selection of the dpdt switch, then run that into the output. that will give you a choice of regular wiring, or the series with the ones you wired up.

german silver is nickel silver as someone stated, but i thought id just state it again as it wasnt stated outright. just to avoid any comfusion

or just turning the tone pot down a bit, to the same level as a 250 k

as for making things overseas, when you go to the lowest bidder, things get bad, if you find a quality manufacturer then it will be quality. korea and china are known for their bad stuff, but there are plenty of good ones aswell. having something made in japan or america basically shows they value quality, as alot of the cost goes to the workers, so the chinese undercut them, making them focus on quality, as opposed to value/cutting every possible corner. on the other hand, with a korean/chinese manufacturer, if they dont cut corners then they can be just as good as the usa or japanese parts, for somewhere around half the price or similar. if ibanez or whoever spends a bit extra moitoring Q C then they can lower the prices for us, and is good for everyone.

sounds like he wired the master volume pot so that the banjo is where the ground should be, and the banjo pup wire should be going into the pot where the guitar pups are soldered to as well. i dont know where he put the ground though...

where do you live, i live in sydney and got some from blackburn electric wires (addresse is below) i got 1.6 kg of 0.06 (in between 42 and 43 awg) because it was the smallest roll of the right size. if your only looking for a small bit it might be hard to find in small quantities. i dont think ill go through this anytime soon, but it should be good for experementing, as im making the bobbins and such myself. i havent tested the pickups yet, as i am waiting for the guitar to be finished, but hopefully it wont be too long before i finish the guitar. id suggest calling some local electrical repair shops that rewing motors and see if they will sell you some (i dont know if they use that gauge much so im not sure) i could probably send you some for a price if your really stuck, sure beats shipping the stuff from overseas if thats your only other option. Blackburn Electric Wires Pty Ltd 55 Garema Cct Kingsgrove NSW 2208 ph: (02) 9750 3133

shouldnt be an issue the aluminium's protective coating will not be useful as the copper will make the aluminium corrode (the aluminium will corrode instrad of the copper, but copper isnt very reactive so it will be slow anyway)

when routing the electronic parts, you dont really need to vary it aslong as you know how many switches and pots your using and where they are, then just make sure that you have room to run a fair few wires between the different cavities.

why not put 2 of the pickups in series to give it a himbukerish sound? (id do the middle and the bridge as the middle is usually out of phase with the others to cancel hum. the bridge just because you usually want a humbucker for heavier sounds. doign all 3 in paralell wont give a sound all that different in my opinion. if you get another dpdt you can get an out of phase sound aswell, which will be the wiring setup on the guitar im working on now,expcept i will be using 2 single coils instead of 3

bubinga? just a guess, but it seems ot be the right tone possibly cocobolo, but id say bubinga is more likely it

ive been slowly building up to the idea of making a amp. might have a go at it during the summer holidays (im in australia, so its your winter). im not too big on electronics, might have a go at it with a friend or 2 who would be interested.

id sa the strong as steel is a bunch of crap. steel with alot of impurities is pretty weak, and im sure its not strong as steel. its probably quite brittle. having said that, theres no reason not to try it, but why not encase an actual piece of steel inside the jb weld? id suggest a bar thats higher than it is wide, and put it perpedicular to the fretboard.

in actives, the preamp is usually seperate. hence me saying that you connect the preamp to the active. passives dont need a preamp, but depending on how much the active is boosted then using a pre to boost the passive can be a good idea so that seperate volume controls are not nessisary.

i actually meant the active, but i may be wrong, arent active pickups low impedance pickups (giving a low output) and then amplified by the preamp to get them to the same signal strength of passive pickups? going by this logic you would want the active pickup going through the preamp and then into the circuit as if the preamp and anctive pickup were a single passive pickup. i think the confusion is active pickups generally will be amplified more by the preamp so that it is of a higher output than the passive, so you are thinking of the active as louder, but this is only due to the preamp amplifying the signal. thats why i mentioned that having seperate volume controls for each pup may be desireable.

personally id go 1 meg pots, as they can be turned down to 500k and 250 k for the tone. why put the tone pot on for 250 when you wont use anything but full. why not use something that has the ability to go brighter and then put it where you want it. might as well not even have the knob there and just bleed put a 250k resistor to ground in the circuit through the tone cap.

no im not, but i am thinking i may at some stage, but i dont know too much about elecvtonics, i may make a pedal and see how that goes then decide if i enjoy the electronics. i am prett psyched on my wiring design, but i cant see myself designing the amp due to the complexity. when i get some time id like to make an amp though, but im rpetty busy with university and such

if your guitar is between the transmitter and the reciever is there a problem? id say that the fact that it is in the guitar shouldnt be a problem. dont shield it obviously.

sounds like were both in a similar boat, but im working on a guitar.

im not 100% on the wiring, but you should be able to figure it out. id put the active through the preamp adn then put the output from that into the circuit. just imagine that the active pup and the preamp are one passive pup. the active pup may be a bit louder than the passive so if you have volume controls for both pickups you might want to use them, but i havent ever had active pickups so that may not be a problem

thanks for that, i wasnt looking for any specific specs. ill be making my own bobbins any way. i was just curious wether its a similar wire and dc resistance with different magnets, or if it was something different.

i quite like the shape, headstock could maybe be a bit less square, would look better in my oppinion and also get the strings to pull straighter

it will work inside the guitar, when the guitar is between the antenna and the reciever the thing still works (or atleast it should)