Jump to content
Entry in the May 2024 Guitar of the Month contest is now open ×

rubber314chicken

Established Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    158

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by rubber314chicken

  1. rubber314chicken
    yeah, I decided to do it. took my 5 seconds to get it done, it should be quiet when I install it.
  2. rubber314chicken
    I just cut a flat slot on my table saw (made it deeper in the middle), a little wider than the rod, and installed it. the neck is all cut. the problem was that the filler strip glue oozed, and spread all along the truss rod. so I pulled it out, cleaned the slot, and am gonna go with a hotro, just to avoid the whole gluing (and to have a 2-way truss rod)
  3. rubber314chicken
    I am building my guitar, and I put a one way trussrod in, and added a curved filler strip, however it doesn't get and back bow when I tension the rod. What is wrong? I tried adding a little oil, but that doesn't help.
  4. rubber314chicken
    http://floydrose.com/instructions.html
  5. rubber314chicken
    I'm probably gonna have my fingerboard slotted by lmi, but incase its not deep enough, it there a saw I could buy for cheap that has a kerf of .023 (even .025 would work)
  6. rubber314chicken
    you COULD, but I think it would work better to buy a bigger bearing.
  7. rubber314chicken
    you could have it re-fretted, and have the edges beveled better (could be a diy job), or make a new nut with the strings closer together. which you do is up to you, but I think by the 2nd picture you need a smaller string spread at the nut.
  8. rubber314chicken
    hmmm... what about alternatives to a fretsaw. because I really don't wanna spen the money too ship them my board (I bought one I liked, so I would like it), and have it slotted and shipped back only to have to do more slotting (I don't have a fretsaw). any cheap saw with a .023 (or even a .025) kerf?
  9. rubber314chicken
    the pickup has 3 wires, the south start, the north start, and the finishes connected together. it is set up so that the south start, which is normally connected to ground, is also connected to the baseplate, so that the baseplate is grounded. but because of that, the south coil, cannot be cut, and the pickup cannot be put out of phase wile still having the baseplate grounded.
  10. rubber314chicken
    I always thought they were wire nuts.
  11. rubber314chicken
    solder them, then wrap it with electrical tape
  12. rubber314chicken
    most veneer is 1/40" thick. are you sure you don't mean a top?
  13. rubber314chicken
    how good is the slotting they do for you at lmi? is it very accurate?
  14. rubber314chicken
    On the golden age pickups, the base is grounded with the south start wire, which normally isn't a problem, but I'm going to have a phase switch, which would put the baseplate on the hot wire, and leave the pickup ungrounded. should I remove the solder to the baseplate, and add in a new wire, or leave it?
  15. rubber314chicken
    yep. I'm not really seeing how that kill switch works, most are spst, so they would have two lugs.
  16. rubber314chicken
    make 1 template, and use a different combinations of bits and bushings so that the two cutouts will be the same size. (like a 1/2" bushing and a 1/4" bit for the body, and then switch the bushing to a 1" one for the actual cover)
  17. rubber314chicken
    close, but on the neck pickup, the top wire is the south start, and the bottom wire is the north start. its is a mirror image of the bridge. the way you have it now will be out of phase. and your treble bleed cap is on thje wrong 2 lugs, it should be between the input and the output. (left 2)
  18. rubber314chicken
    if you can't find the switches for the series/cut/parallel, then you can use an on/on switch, and take a spst switch, and connect it between the jumper at the top of the switch for each on/on/on switch, and ground, to allow you to switch to cut coil with it (but only in series, so you could have parallel/cut or series/cut) p.s. sorry for the bad quality. its 1 am, and I have no skill in paint, so if someone can read it, and wants to re draw it, be my guest.
  19. rubber314chicken
    yeah, as soon as I can find the drawing, the only problem is the mini switches will have to be on-on-on if you still want cut coil, and then you can move the series/parallel and phase shift to the volumes, and then have the cap selector on the tones. lemme just find that drawing...
  20. rubber314chicken
    looks like the paint was over swirled. maybe try again with less swirling in the paint.
  21. rubber314chicken
    I don't have any schematics that I have tried myself, but here are a few pages with schematics. http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/schematics.html http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/tom/schematics.htm http://www.geocities.com/tpe123/folkurban/fuzz/snippets.html
  22. rubber314chicken
    ok, thanks. that makes sense. yea, I just want to have the arm rest covered, not to go onto the sides, and I geuss I will be using a sand bag or two.
  23. rubber314chicken
    I want to put veneer on the face of the guitar I am building. I know how to put it on and stuff, but the body is contoured, and I was wondering how that would affect the veneer? Its not just a straight cut, like on a fender, but rather a slightly curved cut. Should I make it flatter, or leave it? and what would be a good source of weight to keep the veneer clamped in place while the glue dries?
  24. rubber314chicken
    no 2 is probably oak or ash. both have pores like that, and that kind of coloring.
  25. rubber314chicken
    that looks pretty good. the one thing I would be cautious of is is to make sure you compressor is only running 1/2 of the time, so you might have to take time between passes (since your compressor is a hair on the small side), but it would work for what you need.
×
×
  • Create New...