stringkilla

Does anyone know if there has ever been fine sand blasting medium in aerosol cans. I have this idea to sand balst letters onto stop tail piece bars. I think that using the industrial size is overkill. Anyways, I don't have access to one. Does it come in rattle cans? What if any, sources for same??

Forgive me if this is in the wrong place, I need the exact dimmensions or templates for the back covers of these giutars Les Paul's and Ibanez. I hope you guys can help. I'm too cheap to buy them all. Both cavity covers for the Les Paul, Ibanez guuitars. I know the LP has only two but the Ibanez has at least two different very popular models with three covers on one and two on the other. Can anyone help??

Here's a question I've always debated with my friends, to no avail. I have a Schecter Omen, along with a Strat and a Tele and a LP, and I have them on stands in my cnc laboratory. In the summer it's air conditioned, and in winter just standard electric baseboard heat. Niether source is excessive. Here's the deal. Each one of them is always in different degrees of tune. Meaning they are out of tune differently. The Shecter is the worst. The others have maybe the G and B strings just slightly off. My take on this is the neck woods are all curing at different rates. Taking in varying amounts of moisture at any given humidity or dryness in the air. I live in New England, and it's true, wait five minutes and it will change. The Omen is about ten yrs. old, the Strat a pre CBS. The neck is stamped 1964, The Tele is a Squire, reletively new, maybe 3 yrs. and the LP is 42 yrs old . I bought it when I was in high school. Any comments on this. I'd like to know what you all think about this.

So, I've got myself a HVLP setup and was wondering what types of paints I can use. Can I spray, nitro, poly,laq with a gun like that. Also can I use just any type of gun with it or does it have to be an HVLP type? I'd like a gravity feed gun for cheap, can I switch out the guts and interchange the needels and such?

OK Let's not obsess over the metal chrome issue, but look at the Crazer stuff. Man if thats not a mad crazy easy effect to have, I just don't know. Yeak and what about that psa metal material, could be used as a great material for inlay effects and logo's. Use the mind, this is the weapon of imagineering. Think outside the box.

I have seen this thread many times here. It always leads to expensive solutions to Chrome and other metalic type finishes. I stumbled upon a site where it comes in self adhesive sheets, plus, many different exotic finishes are availible. Yes some of the equipment can be pricey, but, a trip to Rokler.com will get you a HVLP setup for under $80.00 . The site I've found is alsacorp.com. Check this one out, it may provide seeds for future reference. Good luck.

Yeah. This leads me to think all mfg's use the same tricks. My buddy has an Eppy LP copy that is made from plywoods, and a Gibson SG that also has plys in it. So what does it all mean???

Brand new full version of a top name in cad/cam, Bob Cad. This software will turn your designs into machine language and mill it out on a cnc. Generates G code common on all cnc machines. Great for 2d to 3d conversions. Full series of toutorials on cd's covering every aspect of creating 2d and complex 3d drawings toolpaths. Perfect as a design tool for any body man, or build a neck without all the math envolved. Let the software do it for you. Also Bob Art Pro. This lets you create logo,s and decal designs from any picture or jpg, bitmap or image you can find. Asking $950.00 for this design bundle. This is a legal version, I own the license,and is transferable to the buyer.

I know this is definatly the wrong place for this but, I need to know is anyone from New Hampshire , Hillborough county having trouble with Hotmail? I can't seem to access it from my isp, Adelphia. HELP!!!!!

Done some degree of research on this subject. Do not use any kind of lube for linear bearings. They run on delrin bushings,good for at least 20 yrs. at the frequency it will be used.

Rigdity is not a question here, it's cast alum. Probably pressure cast no problem.

Yes that will work. One caution, I'd use a longer srew to reach virgin wood. Hey a good name for a song. I got dibbs. lol lol. BTW I dont have any pads on my factory made guitars. Iguess you don't really need 'em.

OK. I've just invested approx. $4k in a desktop machine that can use a dremel, wood router, or custom made spindle. Commonly a dremel is used to drill holes for electronic components. The CAM software alone cost me $2k. The control software hit me again for $1k and I still have'nt turned the darn thing on yet. It is capable of up to 6 axis. In milling turms that's about every direction possible to complete the machine profile task. It will also mill profiles on circular objects,( the 4th axis everyone is talking about). If you can use this stuff to create any kind of object you can think of and are willing to sprout the cash, then it's easier to do that than learn how to do it by hand. Just my .02 cents you see.

I know this design. It appeared in the fifties for school boys to build. I'm not being funny it's true, it's an old tried and true design. If one uses baltic birch plywood for all the parts and some tubular support where the bolts go through it becomes a very servicable unit. Just don't over stress it and you're in.

I must add my 2 cents in here. I can argue for Stanley Bailey planes. I have all the numbers except for a no. 1. There should be a slight crown to the sole. It is there because one must apply pressure to the infeed stroke and at he the end of cut. It is a technique one must learn over time. Don't expect to buy a plane at The Despot and claim you can use it. One must hone the blade first then test it to insure it is parrallel then and only then can you commence to cut. Oh, the first time you plane an edge, do not expect it to be flat. That is a learned practice the comes with time. And one more thing I have thirty seven years experience as a precision wood worker. Five and one half years as an apprentice so I know from which I speak

Does this site accept dxf. or dwg. files for upload?

Hey fellas, anybody interested in cnc dyi. go to cnczone.com and check out the forums plenty of info on all aspects of the art of building a cnc machine. Good luck, it can be a let down. Enter with an open mind.

OK you're right my bad

OK here's the deal. Using Guitar ReRanch Tinted clear coat Nitro Lacquer from a rattle can how many coats to use and what polish to use to get a good clear top finnish? Thank you in advance fellas.

G.I. do this. Don't try to print directly from that dwg. save it first as a dfx. or dwg. file then open it . You will see it opens full size, then zoom negative until it fits in the screen. When you print it out make a rectangle that is Eight inches by Eleven inches and print it sections that way. I've done two full size templates that way and find the accuracy to be within .032 ". Good luck

Hello Rocket Stringkilla here. The real trick to drilling or routing plastics is speed. The drill press is best or a variable speed hand drill Dremel or RotoZip. A moderate speed of approx. 300 rpm and a sready feed rate is best for drilling. DO NOT USE A FORSTNER BIT OF ANY KIND HERE, NO SPUR BITS either if you dont want to lose the job. These type of bits are good for wood only, the brad point drill bit is good but a standard jobber bit with a 86 degree included angle tip is best. Simply drill through and go straight to the router and template. Good Luck

Mint 60 watt amp and speaker cabinet. Four 12 inch Jensen in sealed cab. No covers. Buyer pays shipping. Asking $750.00. This is a clean no nonsence amp made for power and durability. Pure tube sound great for blues and heavy metal. Original owner cica 1968. Hendrix used these before his Marshall days.

Well I finnaly got a responce from Delmar Prod,s. Whoever said you have to buy alot is right. The smallest quantity is ninety sheets 24x54 at $110.00 per sheet, thats $9900.00. Holy plastic man,I'd better rethink this whole idea. Man I thought it was going to be easy, HA HA.

I like the saran wrap idea. It clings to the surface without the risk of chemical reactions. The only thing is I'd use Aluminite availible at your local hobby shop. It is a aluminum dust filled resin that mixes one to one and takes a beatinf and keeps on ticking.

Does your lathe have an outboard spindle attatchment?? If it does extend the arbor some to get some space between the buffer wheel and the headstock and you're good to go.