billm90

well so far it has taken up $2.44 lol actually it will be more of time. and the price for new strings. I have everything I need from other projects or laying around. as for building from the ground up. already started one, and backed off in fear of not being ready.

Just a few Q's about some things I came across. I have been doing some experiments. If a classical guitar had electric strings put on it, will it play in tune? I was reading some scale length info on the wiki, and it said some guitars (string or frets) are built with some extra in them to compansate for the bending of the string when you fret the notes. I am wondering what should I expect? I would just put the strings on the guitar already and see, except I have to rebuild it, and that, plus the experiments I am going to try will take up a lot of time. when I got this guitar it never played in tune. I was a teenager and did some math somehow and moved all the frets up a hair towards the bridge. I have no idea how I even figured that was the solution. I am guessing the bridge was in the wrong location. I dont remember if this ever worked out. Anyhow, much older, I pulled the guitar out (most people would throw it away) and decided to do lots of strange thing to it. I have to rebuild everything on it but the neck, top needs to be reinforced, and sides. I already cut out a new fret board and cut the slits based off the scale from a standard classical guitar. if the nut to 12th fret length is the exact same as the 12th fret to bridge, would any set of string tune up and play fine? I am posting it here, because my experiments will probably take me away from acoustical, and into electric solid body. And it may end up with a couple more strings then stock.

I am now wondering about this. How many guys here who use the tones controls playing a single coil guitar? And the guys who dont use tone, are you all humbuckers?

I agree, dont paint it. I have painted lots of items your not suppose to (mainly junk pieces). most the paint has worn off. you will wish he never sprayed it.

I dont want to get into too much here, but I just started doing this since I am doing a death march on my 15 fixer upper guitars. I have done 4 this way now and I am very happy with it. The poly stuff I dont like, it has flaked off on me in 3 years. I use lacquer in a rattle can. First and foremost, like with everything I have read on the net, and I have several hobbies. you read enough to get some info. the real process is practice. I have spent a while reading all sorts of stuff and often it never really added up to me. I took a different approach. I am that guy who jumps in head first. it is the only way to get somewhere quick. Being once you have an idea of what you are doing. For me, I said F-it and my LP copy just refinished with clear red got the lacquer treatment. I did not even test it. lol. So here is the basics that no would ever tell me. this is really all it is. give it a shot. practice on a piece of wood if you want. I sprayed 3 seperate coats (allow a little dry time between like 3 hours) of lacquer from a can (gasp) and let it dry a day or 2. wet sand lightly with 400 Spray 3 more coats, dry a day or 2, wet sand 400 again. Spray 3 more coats, let dry a few days. wet sand 400 again. Now wet sand 600, could go upto 1000 or 1200, I stop at 600 just fine. Polish. I used a drill with a 5" disk and a simple polishing bonnet used on cars (My other hobby) I used 3m rubbing compound found at most auto chains. then swirl remover. then turttle wax polish. all these on a drill. keep the pad a little damp, dont stay in one place too long and you wont burn the finish. the damp pad cools the finish from burning. Not soaking wet, just lightly damp. The amount of time spent sanding will remove the orange peel. you do a half ass job, your results will show. polish simply removes the scratch marks. if you totally make a mistake like a drip, Just stop, let it dry, sand it smooth, restart. Caution about sanding the curves/edges. Curves and edges are very easy to sand through. I did not even sand my edges. I just used rubbing compound on them. I start this off by hand and see how it is going. yes I did use the drill on it. very quickly. spend as much time on the edge as the front and you will tear the whole clear off. This is my process. I would not do this on a valued guitar of mine. Just project guitars, or home built guitars. I would want me valued guitars taken care of by a pro. I have done 3 others, my med/dark wood stained flying V copy looks awesome. It looks wet just sitting there. For anyone who says I am doing ti wrong. Prove it! lol

hmm... I have a best I can describe jazzmaster copy body and neck. I am building the pickguard, bridge, and tailpiece for it. (I dont have these parts) Anyhow, this has a swimming pool route and some extra removed. it has a huge opening in it. I have been debating on what to do with this guitar to take advantage of this. I was thinking clear pickguard with a hole like and acoustic in it. throw a piezo bridge on it. then I was thinking dual humbuckers and a piezo bridge. Maybe I can get some subtle 355 sounds mixed with some archtop like piezo tones? or maybe it will sound like crap and I will spray right stuff expandable foam in it.

wow that is awesome.

I dont see how an on/on is very different from an on/off. on/off has 2 terminals. one missing. there is nothing to ground it to unless by some odd chance the metal on the body acts as a ground. even then on something like a plastic strat gaurd, you wont have a ground connection. I will check with my ohm meter tonight. on/on has 3 terminals. just dont use one and you have on/off. I have 3 on/on used as coil on/off on a strat instead of 5 way switch. 1 on/off for master piezo and 6 on/on sliders for piezo selection. Not one od these make a peep when swicthed to off, all are broken circuits minus the master piezo switch. I guess if you are getting noise, the on/on with a ground is the only way to go. If this is a master kill, this would be the only way to go. Instant silence. I just installed a master kill push button on my V. thinking about rigging it up so it works both ways. master kill, or master on.

I have never used bread boards. I just wire the stuff up. but I have not had to do any hardcore diy stuff without a supplied board. but for something like this you may want to just find something that is made to do this function. IC chips can be programmed to run a function. this may be modded to do what you want. email the guy. he helped me out with my project. http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=579 as for grounding. you will not be grounding your LED's to the guitar. your leds will be a complete spereate circuit.

Trust me, you wouldn't be able to build your own for any less than that. why is that? I agree 35 is not much at all. but 2 switches and a stereo cable. hmm.

You can't see this guy on stage with the guitar staight up, headstock in front of his face. He slaps the neck back and forth between left and right hands, and you get the stereo field effect of this ping pong open string distorted sound? I can see michael angelo batio doing this in my head right now I dont know what I would do with it as well. I guess for fast agressive side to side ping pong effects, jerking the guitar would be a lot faster then the pedal fade. Given I dont know what I would use it for, I some how still feel like I need one.

The fader pedal is the easy way out.

I agree with paul. It is going to be tough to say what will happen as they can be wired the same, or totally different. I am fairly sure with a little know how you could get it to work by rewiring it if it did not work out of the box. the trick would be a wiring scematic, or to actually have both pedals to take the vox apart and see the wiring and then clone it in the marshall. At that point I would just build a new pedal if you have to rewire.

I personally like this aproach. But I know what you are saying. I was going to build something on a foot switch that did the kill, but I wanted to increase it with a pedal much like a wah. push down and the rate would increase.

so you did this one?

What does the plug look lik eon both amps? Is it a 1/4 inch stereo jack?

Just roughly thinking about this for 40 seconds. How about a slide volume pot, like in a mixing board. Maybe a 2 large metal balls on a track could push the slider side to side based on gravity? guess I would need to spend a little more time thinking about this.

Not so much. I see the 13 pin connector there The 13 pin connector is the only connector I know that would allow him to parallel wire in multi buttons. He could get 6 buttons working off it. Or he could make his own cable, but it would take a ton of wire to do so. or he could pair up tons of 1/4 mono cables. lol. Make a monster cable. Maybe midi would work with a 5 wire cable, but I dont know enough about midi, and I asume he would need some sort of computer in the guitar. I am trying to give him the simplist solution without causing major damage to something. As for the graphtech hexpander. I tried to make my g2k pickup versital on several guitars with piezo pickups in the bridge. I tried to use telephone cables and jacks. this way I had 4 wires per telephone cable. I used 2 for a total of 8. the g2k needs 7 wires. 6 leads for each string and a common ground. The idea did not work well, as I had noise and a bad signal. I dont think it was due to non shielded wire, but do to the pickups maybe needed a preamp on each pickup. Anyhow, the same kind of idea might be able to be used. Now I think sometime this weekend I will pull apart one of my digitec floor boards and take a peak at the foot switching.

I found this http://www.flickr.com/photos/ericmckenna/2233968442/

rereading the post over and over.... If you did have a pedal unit like an rp10 or 12. I think they just use momentary buttons. Perhaps you could parallel the wiring to the button in the floor board, run it to a 13 pin connector, put the same 13 pin connector on the guitar, and install momentary push buttons on the guitar, you would be able to change effects/presets with a guitar button press, or by floorboard.

This is a very confusing post. Do you have individual pedals, or a digital effects processor, or willing to buy whatever it takes to work? You basically want buttons on the guitar that you can press a button and a predertimined set of effects are enabled or disabled? I once had a set of 5 buttons, one is always pressed down. when you press another one, the previous one deactivates. Similar to 1970's AM car radios presets. Maybe something like this? I have several processors. (I think these are the right names) Boss gt5 or 6, digitech GSP 21, blues one as well, DOD g7, digitech rp12. They all have foot pedals or built in switching. the button basically enables of disables a certain effect, or changed to another preset number. It is all computer controlled basically. I picked up a few cheap Zoom floor mounted pedals that do multi effects. I was thinking I would mount them in a guitar at some point, but they are only 2 button operation. so I could cycle presets only. But I am going off on another topic. Reply back if any of these points are on target and we will see if we can work something out with those of us here. I did an image search for starr labs and this came up.

Say someone here in the states just mailed it to him like a card or something, would it be taxed that way? Back in 2002 I bought some race seats from a place in the UK and had them shipped to me in california. I think the value was 500-600 dollars. Some months later I got a tax bill for around $25.00 for the import tax. It was still cheaper then buying local, just a suprise to me.

I think is is a bolt on. It's pretty bad when you dont remember. I have more guitars then the wall is big. Mostly project guitars and a few acoustics. corvus? Im not familar Is this a corvus? http://www.shikbyrd.com/GibsonCorvusPage---_0012.jpg

Someone say Iceman? I have the Ibanez, with floyderose. This is the only pic I have thus far of it. If you wanna see more just say the word.

I have wired several guitars in the past and present. Just recently I did one and made a stupid mistake. This 1/4" jack was different from the rest, and it took a close look to make sure I had the right tip and ground. I actually wired it wrong and had to re-do it. I would carefully look over the guitar wiring again. and perhap see if you have a ground loop. I had my strat with fishman piezo bridge (no magentic pickups) do this very thing when touching the strings. I tore it down because I could not find the problem and re wired it. it was finally silenced. I suspect I had a ground loop since I was sloppy with that part of the wiring. I agree a diagram would help a ton. Maybe a picture of the wirring as well, but often these are too hard to tell. Also make sure your bridge ground is in fact going to the ground wire.