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Primal

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Everything posted by Primal

  1. Are badass bridges really worth that much money? From pictures I have seen I dont see anything special about them. Maybe I just need to play one...
  2. Well, you could always make a wooden pickguard. That would solve the issue of the hole and wood is much classier than plastic. You could always sand the finish off and refinish with tung oil. If you do this, you could even get matching wood for the pickguard.
  3. Any Lowes or Home Depot should carry one. Sears as well.
  4. Could you post some pictures with better lighting. It is so dark that I cannot see any detail. Nice piano.
  5. I think its easier to just use your neck stock for the scarf joint and then add wings for the headstock. Here you can see the 12 degree angle drawn on the neck stock. The two piece after being sanded flat on a belt sander. Gluing the pieces together. This gives you a level surface for the fretboard (after minor sanding on the belt sander to remove glue).
  6. I would also like to volunteer to admin/mod if you still need some.
  7. Has anyone had any experience with the PRS guitar kit from www.guitarpartsonline.com? The body looks to be pretty nice.
  8. If you are going to go to all that trouble, why not just go ahead and make it semi-hollow?
  9. This has absolutely nothing to do with your neck, but on your first picture you have some major orbage going on! Call the ghostbusters!
  10. You may want to recheck your calculations. I bought bass plans from the MIMF and it actually looked larger than it should...
  11. Thats kind of what I had in mind skibum. Frosted plastic with clear eyes so that the whole inlay would glow with the eyes being brighter.
  12. Just an idea for your next LED project: What if you used some type of translucent material for the inlay that way the whole inlay would glow so you could see it in the dark?
  13. Wow, I was out there when I wrote that... DOH! After school brain fart I guess.
  14. I would say find the 12th fret harmonic. Then you will know if the side dots are where the frets should be or not. Then measure from the nut to the 12th fret harmonic. double it and thats your scale length. From that you will know where to position the bridge.
  15. Lex Luthier: Jamcams are actually pretty nice for their price (CHEAP!!). skibum: That is a pretty cool idea, but I wouldn't want to have to install the truss rod from the back of the neck. BLS: No, its the ugly blue one.
  16. Thanks Wes. Took it using my Jamcam! (horray for 1/3 megapixel!)
  17. Ya, I was just searching for one of those (apparently you cant remote link from geocities anymore =P). Thanks!
  18. This is what I have so far. Here are my parts. Double action truss rod, Bartolini MM pickup, satin chrome tuners, custom shop parts chrome bridge, pau ferro fretboard, strip of maple, and a strip of african padauk. Here is a picture of my neck blank. It is maple/walnut/maple/walnut/maple. Wood for lower wing (walnut): And upper wing (walnut): Here is a picture of my scarf joint cut and sanded level. And the joint glued and clamped. Comments welcome!
  19. I would still recomment using an LMI rod (because of the channel width). The downside to a single action rod is that you have to have an arched channel. Best of luck!
  20. It would be really cool if you could control the effect with a fake tremolo bar. Not sure how this could be done but I imagine it would be very possible. Would make a great mod for a non-trem guitar.
  21. If you are using a double action truss rod, I would go with LMI's rod instead of Stewmac's. LMI's rod uses a standard 3/8" router bit while Stewmac's uses a special 7/16" router bit that you must buy from them. I plan on using my router table and a fence to do my truss rod channel. Be sure that you use multiple shallow passes rather than on pass at the desired depth! This will decrease the chances of the router jumping and prevent wood burning. Hope this helped.
  22. If you could rig up some kind of flat support for a dremel router base to sit on you should be able to route the fretboard fairly easily. As for radiusing the inlay, I would take a piece of wood (pine would even work for this), draw a 12" radius arc and cut it out. Then take the concave piece of wood and make a sanding block out of that. I would suggest you then put some foam or something along those lines along the bottom in case your cut wasn't perfect; it should average out the curve and be good enough for sanding the inlay. It may not be the best way but it would be the easiest without having to buy any new tools.
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