Mahelcaya

that looks great Morben !

Ok I got my hands on some nice lumber of zebrawood. I am planning a 7 string on a zebra 3 piece body, and was thinking to use it for the neck, to make it necktrough. Is Z wood ok for necks?

Since you will be sanding it to level, it's best to blend it in . If not you would probably sand the colored part right off

Welcome onboard

BRAVO !! Amazing work !

Should work fine, you can put anything in resin (at least epoxy resin, for my experience), just make sure you have enough paint dust to color evenly the resin for inlay

Thanks ! May come useful to somebody that does not like their pickguard

Curtis : I finish the resin inlays with shellac, have not tried it on a fretboard. Epoxy resin (in my case ) cures hard and for what I heard it will last a reeeeallyyy long time, so no worries abot that. The only thing I mentioned before, is that if u blend in a lot of color paint , the inlay does not cure so hard, worked great in the case of "the cross" were there is only resin and alluminium powder, it's really hard ..... so just do not exagerate with the white paint . I think I used in the black inlay, about 10 % of paint. OH and do some test on scrap before, don't forget to seal well the grain before routing, to avoid the horrible bleading , like in my case

Amazing work !!!!! Defenetly tutorial ! hehehe I bought some 1 mm optic fiber, and will attempt to use that instead of leds, for the sidedots. Anyone ever try this? I kind of have an idea , but would really appriciate tips !

Oh boy, that wood is beautifull! It will make a pretty guitar !

usefull link....thanks WWW !

Hi Today I was bored so I thought I'd make an experiment with my pickguard.....what do you think ? Pics , it's a 0.4 mm mohogany veneer. I hated that black one ! hehehe

I'll just leave it in the house for these 3 weeks I'll be gone....I covered the edges of all the blanks with paraffine to avoid cracking.........may be usefull knowing to somebody

Thanks guys ! I am not really so happy with it, mostly cause there is some bleding in the grain , and I did not really do a great job routing the sides straight....it was ment to be a present for my aunt and uncle in US ( it's not a fretboard , just a little thin square board cut from a rosewood future fretboard ! ), dunno if i'll give it to them yet....not too satisfide about it. The alluminium is for metallic paint blend i guess, the guy at the shop did not say much about it, but seems to work fine. It has a really shiny effect when dry , but then when i sand it with 80 to 400 grit, and can't get it shiny that much. anyway it's always a good idea for some original inlay material..... ! - Little bit : i think i'll try some of that fluorescent powder from that RISK .....company. They sayd, in a inquiery email i sent them: that it should last 20 years ! (the glow effect ) I was told to blend 1 : 2 (catalizer) : cures quite hard if i dont put too much pigment paint in it, and I usually leave it 8 / 10 hours at least before sanding

Thanks for help guys. I was getting scared cause the mohogany body thats moving is for my bass, so no problem, but I have even 2 blanks of nice expensive walnut for a customer (maybe friend sounds better, since no profit work) and I need to glue it in 2 weeks when I get back from US (my bro is getting married ). I am just a bit paranoid that the guitar body I'll make for him, may warp once the guitar is fully finished in his hands, and he will be like : HEY MAN what's this! Anyway Since most of the wood is in the houze from 3 weeks, and will all stay in the same place for almost a month, I'll see what happens when I get back to Italy, and probably just plane it straight again. Good tip Lex, I'll try clamping them to straigt surfaces

looks NICE ! Pouring the resin on a glass mirror will make it uniformly flat like a sheet of paper or veneer, or did you do something in particular like fine sanding it before peeling it off the glass? What do you use for hardner? Are you talking about a product that is not the catalyst?

I have bought some walnut and mohogany lumber for body blanks, hade it planned to thickness. I got some maple for laminated neck blanks. All this wood, that was ment to be super dryed out (that is what they alway tell me at the lumber store ! ), after 3 weeks it has been laying on my livingroom table ( i put little wood tripes inbetween every piece of wood, to let the air circulate on all the surface ) , with a lot of dissapointment I noticed that the lumber and the maple warped a little! In my house I have 22 ° C and 30 / 40 % humidity....the ood at the lumber store is outdoor with baut 5 ° C averagely and variable humidity. I cut out the mohogany bass body blank 2 weeks ago ( I have planned it and glued the blanks a month and a half ago) last nignt i noticed that laying flat on the table, the body is forming a slight C shape ! What is the best thing to do? Keep it in the house 2 weeks and then plannet flat again? Will it continue to warp? Is there anyway I can buy lumber and avoid it to warp or crack, most important, is to know when is the right moment to start working on the wood you buy, to be shure it will not warp once the guitar is set and finished......... I think it's very frustraiting to buy good wood , start working on it, and after a wile se it moving ! Thanks

I see, well the other guitar player in my band has a Jackson flying V , with 2 Duncan D. , and sounds quite good thinking of it.......anyway I find it strange that people are selling used Seymour D and Dimarzio Pups for like 20 $ !!!! Is it safe to buy on Ebay?

Good evening...! Can someone tell me if there is a big sound quality difference between : The quite unexpensive DUNCAN DESIGN , and the SEYMOUR DUNCAN Hums?

In my case I routed the cover cavity (3 mm) with the dremel, but the next ones I'll be taking time to make both templates and just use my router......better cut and much faster, I reccomend first the cover shape routing , and then the deep cavity routing

Pics of a Epoxy resin with alluminium powder, blended toghether, it has a few handcoats of shellac. ..... Still need to seal better the grain before pouring the resin.....any suggestions?

Great links ! thanks If i make an epoxy resin inlay with that it should look great in the dark, does it last in time (I mean does it ever ware out and not glow after years? )

BELLISSIMO ! great work

I am looking for some glow in the dark paint ( fluorescent may be the name...dunno) to blend with the resin. For now I am testing the opaque pigments, I have some alluminium fine dust to blend in for metallic effect, and I tried some thick bronze color metallic waterbase thick paste (WOW that was long). Post pics , I am interested in the subject !

You are doing a great job ! Looks nice