Stalefish

Helloo to you too!!

I absolutely loved that game.. Nothing like some old skool blood 'n gore to cheer you up from the harsh, un-pixelated reality of this world..

Oops.. Sorry Keith.. Didn't realised you'd replied already..

Ok, let's see if I can remember what was taught in all those electronics lectures I slept through... Basically, impedance can be thought of as resistance of sorts.. A kind of obstruction to the flow of electricity through the circuit... Another thing to keep in mind is that each note has its own frequency.. For example, an A4 has a frequency of 440Hz.. The formulas that Keith posted will give you the impedance for a certain frequency... The first formula, in particular, shows that as the frequency of the note gets higher (higher in pitch), the more resistance the capacitor is going to put up when faced with a flow of electricity.. In English, it blocks the lower pitched sounds more than the high pitched ones... (Isn't school just so full of crap??) A tone circuit looks something like the one below.. The zig-zagged lines represent the tone and volume pots, which are actually variable resistors... Let's say the pot is 250k.. This is actually the max resistance the pot can show.. Let's say as well that the capacitor is a 0.022 uF one... Let's also take 2 notes, an A6 (1760Hz) and an A1 (55.0Hz)... Using Keith's formulas, you'll get an impedance of 4.110k for the A6 and 131.53k for the lower A1... As you can see, the A6 is gonna get a lot less resistance to it's flow... Bearing this in mind, let's look at the circuit.. At position 1 (solid arrow), the tone is cranked to the MAX... What happens is that the impedance from the capacitor is added to the 250k resistance which the pot is now showing.. When this happens, both the A6 and the A1 now have a RELATIVELY similar amount of resistance to their flows.. What this means is that much of the signal for both notes will go into the volume pot and out to your amp... When the tone is all the way MIN at 2 (dashed arrow), the tone pot is actually taken out of the circuit (so to speak).. This means that the difference in resistance seen by the A6 and the A1 are now RELATIVELY different, with the A1 seeing much more resistance.. What then happens is that the A6 would go into ground (and into oblivion) while the A1 would go to the volume pot and out to your amp, resulting in a muddier, bassier sound... One last thing to note (in relation to your question, Rhoads) is that with any tone circuit, there is always going to be a little bit of signal running off into the ground, even if your tone pot is maxed out.. What this means is that if you use a 0.047uF capacitor with a 250k pot, you will get less treble even when your tone is up all the way.. You can get a clearer sound by using either a smaller cap (0.022uF) or a bigger pot (500k).. This is again that relative difference thing.. I hope this is clear.. Quite frankly, it's not the easiest thing in the world to understand.. I think I'll go play my guitar for a while.. With the tone up, of course..

I actually know something about this... Coool.. That's a first.. Capacitors have an impedence that's indirectly proportional to the frequency of the signal passing through it.. The higher the impedence, the In English, that means a capacitor actually blocks off lower range sounds.. The higher the value of the capacitor, the lower the impedence at a specific frequency... What this means is if you put a capacitor with a big @ss value in series with a pickup, nothing much would happen 'cause the low impedence would let everything through.. Put a small value capacitor in series, though, and you've got a high pass filter (ie knocks off the lower range).. When you put the capacitor in parallel, it does kinda the opposite.. A large value capacitor in parallel would block off almost everything while a small value one would act as a low pass filter (ie knocks off the treble).. A tone control works like that.. You've got a capacitor in series with a pot which are then both in parallel with the pickup.. Practically, having a higher value capacitor in your tone control would bleed off more treble when you crank the tone all the way down.. The down side is that your overall tone would be muddier due to the fact that some signal will still pass through the capacitor even when the tone is maxed out.. Usually, when your tone pot value is high (500k), you'd use a higher value capacitor such as a 0.047uF or a 0.033uF one.. With a smaller pot value (250k), 0.022uF or 0.01uF capacitors are usually used.. No hard and fast rules here, though.. Sorry for the long, long post.. Hope it was worth the read!!

Oopss.. DGB's diagram was correct.. E-mailed them about it and they pointed out a little detail I'd overlooked... I'd like to stick with mine, though, so comments are still welcome!!

Helloo.. Here's the schematic of the wiring I'm planning on using for my project.. Is there anything wrong with it?? Anything that won't work, won't do what it's supposed to, etc?? First time project so if it's not there, I don't know about it.. The general gist of the circuit is actually from DGB Studios but I actually found something a bit wrong with the circuit there so I kinda added my own little mod to it.. Here's what it does (or at least should do): Switch 1 up, switch 2 up: Neck in parallel Switch 1 down, switch 2 down: Neck in series Switch 1 up, switch 2 down: Neck north coil Switch 1 down, switch 2 up: Neck south coil Switches 2 and 3 do the same thing, only for the bridge... All 4 switches are DPDT push/pull pots... Oh, and I'll be star-grounding the ground connections.. (Guitar Nuts) Remember, I'm a first timer, so go easy!! Thanks!!

Thanks a whole lot for the comments, guys.. The pictures will be up once there's actually something to take pictures of... Cheers!!

Thanks for the replies.. The neck will be angled back, if I'm not wrong.. At least I'll specify that.. Also, the body'll be pre-routed.. Kinda cheating, but hey, I'll get what I want (I hope).. I'm not too sure about the wood here in Singapore.. As far as I know, what wood there is here is for construction works.. I'll check it out, but I've never done any woodwork before.. That's actually why I'm buying everything..

Helloo.. Here are the details of my first project guitar.. Now, I'm not actually making any of the parts.. I'm buying the parts (mostly from Warmoth..) and then assembling.. I live in Singapore, see, and Singapore's not really a very DIY guitar friendly place.. That aside, I was wondering if you guys would be so kind as to have a look at the specs and tell me what you think.. If there's anything glaringly wrong or anything, please mention it.. Thanks!! Neck: Mahogany with ebony f/b; 13 degree angled head stock; 24-3/4" scale length; 6105 frets; 1-11/16" nut width; bolt on Body: Mahogany with Maple top Hardware: Pre-slotted tusq nut (haven't a clue how to slot it myself); Grover locking Rotomatic tuners; TonePros locking bridge & tailpiece Pickups: Gibson 496R & 500T I know it kinda looks like a Gibson LP but I'm kinda looking for that sort of sound.. I've already got a Strat (which I love very, very much.. ).. Thanks!!

Ooopss.. I think I've phrased my question completely wrong.. I'm buying a neck from Warmoth and I was wondering which one to go for.. I'm not making it myself... Sorry 'bout that!! Thanks for the replies, though...

Helloo.. I'm currently in the planning stage of my first project and I'm trying to decide between a compound radius and a normal fixed radius fretboard.. Any pointers or suggestions?? Opinions are more than welcome.. Thanks!!

Helloo.. I'm ordering a neck and body from Warmoth and I'd like a 24 and 3/4" scale length.. Thing is that I'm worried about intonation problems.. Is there anything I've got to look out for or anything I've got to specify to the dudes at Warmoth regarding the body?? This is a first time project, so assume I know absolutely nothing about guitars... Which is kinda true, anyway.. Thanks for the help!!

Helloo.. I'm in the midst of planning out my first project guitar and a little something just occured to me.. I understand that the guitar's electronics are generally grounded on the bridge through the inside of the guitar.. At least with those hardtail bridges.. What about a tunomatic with tail stop?? It doesn't go all the way through to the inside of the guitar, does it??

Could it be a shielding problem?? For the Mex, I mean...

Ok, you guys probably think I'm a little nuts by now.. HA HA HA!!! *ahem* Sorry.. Excuse me.. Anyway, I'm kinda new to guitar building in general so I'm asking how to slot and install a blank nut.. Links, tutorials, bring 'em on.. Thanks!!

Thanks for the help, guys... What kind of glue do you use to glue in a nut, incidentally??

Helloo.. I'm looking for a nut for my guitar.. First time project.. I'm basically trying to decide between a regular nut, a roller nut and that Earvana thingy.. I'm not a big fan of locking nuts, so I'm giving that a miss.. I'm also clueless about slotting blanks.. Opinions?? Thanks!!