truerussian558
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Everything posted by truerussian558
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more specifically here, great overall shielding and grounding mod, can fix many problems arising from shady wiring and ground loops and the such (probably about 90% of all noise problems)
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sorry, that made me laugh on topic: yes building a cnc would be a sweet project, but id hate for some one like monkey, to go out and buy all the expensive hardware and plans, and then turn out with either a cnc that is totally crap tastic, and even if by an off chance it really does actually work semi well, a thousand dollars is invested in something he totally doesnt need even for starting a new guitar company. my sugestion is to use the money to build a few guitars instead to gain experience (since i doubt many people would buy from you, even if you had a cnc and it might even discourage some people) , or invest in good/better tools.
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as many people have explained to you monkey, almost nothing in this world is free. as my granpa bluntly puts it, "free cheese exists only in mouse traps", thus dont expect everyone to do the work for you, let alone for free, go out and research yourself, and i doubt you will be able to get ready and build a cnc by next summer, sorry to disapoint you,but it aint probably gonan happen, and aside from that, it is seriously expensive, so unless you have a feasible reason i (like asm said) beleive that you should instead consider building a copy carver, itll be good experience, and is still chalenging enough to be somewhat fun
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basically its a type of transistor, thus it increases a signal, but unlike a normal transistor, its workings are controlled by voltage rather then current, which is much like a tube, and odlly the construction is related to the a tube (but much smaller), and in turn the MOSFET sounds remarkable like a tube, but it doesnt use a filamnent, is much smaller, and doesnt use extremely high voltage, but it is more linear then any tube. edit: damn lovekraft you beat me to it
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basically you get a midi editor/creator and open the midi file in it, there you see all the notes for each channel and the voice assignments for it, the "patch" is the voice assigned to the channel (a number and a name, like 1-grand piano) and to change wahat sound instrument it uses you change the patch number or if its a it more advanced it uses a fancy scroll down menu thing. like i was saying, i use guitar pro 4 to open midis and play with them since it also gives me tabs instantly.
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or you might be ablke to find a shareware of a different program
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just for your information there is no difference between the 486's used in a laptop or used in a box. (unless i am seriously miostaken)
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thank you! finally i can play doom1 and doom 2 and the kings quests with sound! anyway i have a bent up old p 133, and a in use p166
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unless somebody can elnlighten me, it shouldnt matter if the power came from a set of tubes or a handfull of transistors, so a solid stape suldnt be louder, the only difference is that tubes generally go into a sweeter overdrive and dont muck up the signal to much, so even though your technically distorting its still bearable for a clean sound, whereas with solid state, once it goes past that clipping limiot and starts to distort, i genrally sounds like crap. also i dont like all this tubes are better solid state stuff, its too much of a hype, a good mosfet amp sounds damn near to an all tube amp and cheaper too (not too mention not as much deadly voltage). now of course buiulding a tube amop is mighty sick and fun, and owning that tube head youve been wanting since youve heard its name is also sick, but hyping that tubes are better then solid state is too much.
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You know you're a guitar dork when.....
truerussian558 replied to krazyderek's topic in Players Corner
lol, i didnt even notice, seems like everyone didnt, since theres three pages of new posts with only te first 3 being of the original time -
youll find that a lot of stuff people do that is very common isnt neccesary at all. but i still dont see why yuou need 4 diodes, maybe its so you wont have to use the inductance and/or caps and resistors , but can anybody please explain the purpose of the 4 diodes.
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i like it too, as for the switching, it depends on how your going to play it (in which postition), as for the guitar, the headstoc makes me feel like something is missing, since it seems a tad small and ends abruptly, maybe elongate or draw out that offset a bit more or maybe even turn it into a 4/2 tuner hole style.
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i use guitar pro 4 (or was it 3?) you can get it for like $1.00 or other legitimate ways *cough cough* open your midi in it, and slow down the tempo, plus it shows you the tab and the notation
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explain why you need 4 diodes the way i see it, is that the tube rectifier is just basically 2 vacuum diodes in one tube (or at least the one for my princeton is), it works by when the ac is switching back and forth, it only lets positive voltage values through, and then the humps are flattened out by the use of a inductor and caps, thus if you replace the tube rectifier with 2 diodes, it does the same principle thing, unless i have the whole concept wrong (from my grnadpa's electronics lectures over the summer), so if i do can you please elaborate.
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as it wont affect the sound, im leaning towards going for a solid state rectifier (2 diodes), as it will give me one less thing that is rediculously over priced also id love those mods. and i got the schematic from fender field guide.
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the AA964. i thought of doing the wide faced princeton (5b2 is it?), but it was a bit too simplistic, so i went with the black faced (non reverb) princeton, plus i got the whole push/pull tube workings (of the power section) explained to me by my grandpa (i thinks its called something like working mode b (sorry russian to english translations can get confusing )) also ive decided to call it "stanford"
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Redwood semi-hollows
truerussian558 replied to MurphC's topic in Acoustic and Hollowbody Guitar Chat
no a different female luthier -
well obviously wear safety stuffs (i pity the fool that does it unprotected). but i was saying it as a side note, id be thankfull it wasnt my eye when if that happened to me becuase as dr. jabsco pointed out, if a a brass plate didnt stop it, i wouldnth think a bit of plastic (or worse your skin) wold stop it. also i got earmuffs for my router since i got annoyed with that ringing that followed me for like 30 minutes folllowing usig the rouiter.
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id be thankfull it wasnt your eye
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as i am making a fender princeton amp in my electronics class (its electronics 1 and i know msot of the stuff we will be doing), i was wondering what is the best way to discharge the caps quickly after you turn off the amp
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probably a belt sander (jsut dont take too much out), and an oscilating spindle sander (or a drum sander on a drill press) for some harder to reach places. and/or the tried and true sandpaper for final smooting or the whole job itself
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just curious, how would one go about determining if a bit is nearing the end of its life?
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simply said it isnt a good idea, it would be cheaper to buy one, as people making one, i doubt anyone has, but your best bet is too look at the patents and try to discern from them how it works.
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sorry, but I tending to beleive christopher parkening, in his classical method he describes these as being artificial harmonics (when you play a harmonic with a fretted note), thats why in a lot of classical pieces it is written as art. harmonic, or natural harmonic over the set of notes to be played with artifiical harmonics or natural harmonics what you described in the first part of that post was a natural harmonic, the second part is an artificial harmonic thoguh all this bickering can be because we where taught with different terms. me being classical and learning classical method i was taught that what i described was an artificial harmonic
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Redwood semi-hollows
truerussian558 replied to MurphC's topic in Acoustic and Hollowbody Guitar Chat
thats actually my next project 3 piece neckthrough, with redwood wings, thankfully because i live in the bay are redwood is quite easy to come by