truerussian558

you need to ground the bridge, and also any cavity shielding that you have,

found one on ebay here, looks like it needs some major work, but you can decide if you want to buy it. and here, a minor repair, compared to the other one (replace the ebony bridge), but about 3 times more expensive.

seconded, and florentine cutaways do rule.

I beleive his are a six way switch,

could be to screw/solder to the cavity shielding.

well you usually solder them all from the sources to one point (usually the top of the volume pot), and then from there to the ground prong on the jack, *when looking from the bottom its usually the top prong, but to check, look at the conections, if it connects to the center and not the claw it is the ground) also you have to solder the bridge ground to ground/volume pot also, and any shielding you might have (in the cavities), though if the pot is in direct contact with the cavity shielding then there isnt a need to solder to ground, to chec if a point is grounded, take a multimeter, and select the ohm reading. connect one to the main ground (the jack), and then poke the other around to parts that should be grounded, if it shows a reading (even a very small one), then its grounded, if not, then check your grounding.

also small correction, you solder the North finish to the South finish (as opposed to north start and south finish) to get rid of the coil tap. and the north start is the hot signal the wire color codes should come with your pickup, and also dont forget to solder the shield (the fifth wire), to ground

oh and if you dont like which position picks which pickup just swithc the wires on the switch(the pickup out put wires that is)

here , but its a schematic, im didnt realize you ment a diagram. basically, you connect, the south start (or coil start) of both pups. to ground, and solder the south finish and north start together (your not using a coilt split, so if its a 2 conductor pup, just leave the coil tap wire alone) on boht pickups, the outpur from the first pickup, solder to the left most lug on the switch in one of the two rows (doesnt matter which), the other pickups hot output solder to the right most lug on the other row of lugs. solder the 2 middle lugs together, and from one of them take a wire to the top posistion of the potentiometer (right most lug when looking from the bottom), and then connect, the leftmost lug on the pot to ground, for the middle lug connect it to the output/signal lug on the jack (when looking from the bottom, the lower lug), and then connect the ground to the other lug on the jack. it might be confusing but it is a very simple schematic.

i can, but what does the on on switch do, select between either, or 1/both

seconded, it really cluters up the page. or you can resize them

ahh nothing, just that it isnt that bad as you made it out to be. but proper safety is always a good idea. its just that if i never knew about it and read that it was nasty and dangerous i would be discouraged from using it, and it would be sad especially if it isnt as bad as it was made out to be.

im not an expert in this, but the the obvious thing is to use some painters masking tape, and cover the insides of all the cavities and the sides, and then when your done (you can even keep it while finishing), just peel and it shoulld be fine, just make sure you dont cover any of the finished parts, or else a guitar you jsut refinished in gold, might have a little red line along the entire edge of the cavity

also strat tremelos have either 6 screw vintage style mounting screws, or 2 screw mounts (others too, especially if its an imported guitar tht is trying to get around patent infringments), also somehting to kee in mind

nope not any bridge, hardtail strats wont cover the hole (were the trem arm will screw in), and floyd rose will require heavy modification, i beleiv wilkinson does make bridges (tremelos) that will retrofit strats and are quite nice (look and play), but for any other bridge, you will have to deal with the trem hole or fill it in and remake it for your bridge. tutorial for refilling the cavity here

make your own guitar by Melvyn Hiscock best overall guitar building book, i have a summary in this thread, it can be had off amazon for 19 dollars plus shiping (last i checked) btw welcome to the forum , and you have the exsact same avatar as krazyderek (a member here, and he sells ofr's cheaper then anyother place i know)

well they say the same thing for rubber cement, of course it isnt healthy,, but unless your stupid, like mistaking it for soda, pouring it in your eye, standing over it for hours and breathing in the vapors, soaking your fingers in it, and other idiotic stuff, it shouldnt have any adverse affects on you.

its not that bad, doesnt do much to your fingers (still not a bad idea to wear gloves), but it does stain, and dont drink it, its Ferric Chloride (iron and chlorine)its used to make pc boards, because it desolves copper, You can find some in radioshack.

warmoth, they can cut any pickup combination, and any control combination.

well putting a classical headstock onto a tele shouldnt have any problems besides maybe weakening of the neck from the truss rod acces cavity. but putting a classical neck would. since classical necks are designed for nylon strings that exert a lot less tension they are ususally made without any neck support (no trussrod and rarely a stiffenening rod). So putting it onto a tele would have disaster coming from the steel strings, it might even look like one of those chineese 2 stringed violin things, and then theres also the problem of the neck join, since a classical neck isnt designed for a bolt on, it would require modification to the tele design to fit it onto the tele body. but im not sure that you ment putting on a classical neck.

well i have a very basic description here, first on the blank pc board you raw out the diagram, in an etch resitant pen, or a rub on decal (that leaves a trace of the picture) with a etch resistant ink (basically permanent ink/marker will do), when the circuit is drawn you drill the holes (or you can do this later), and then you dip it for about 20-30 minutes, in an etching solution (basically its a chemical that disolves all the copper except for the parts protected by the permanent ink), which as i recall is ferric chloride (i might be wrong). after you take it out, and wash off the ink (another chemical which disolves the permanent ink) your left with a printed circuit board. that is ready to solder.

how is it stereo, it still only has one output claw.

it doesnt have to be stereo, it jsut that if you want it to turn off when you take the input out, you need a 3 prong mono jack, instead of the regulat 2 prong mono jack, or you can use an on/off switch

just take the distance from the nut to the 12th fret and double it. and times by .39 that gives the inches

the thing that darren added on seemed to me to be the best control positioning (that is controls in the back, behind the bridge)