Kenny

bench top anything is not ideal i just got a belt sander and the drive belt broke a day after i got it...grizzly is great about that though, i had a new one within the week craigslist FTW

this is one of the projects i have going ATM; i have a top secret one ill post when its completed, but this is one thats nearing completion All wenge detail (including but not limited to: TR cover, Fretboard, Scarf and Neck laminations, Kaye inlay, bridge (not including base plate), and knobs) hond. mahogany body and neck. Sherman style neckjoint; Sorbera/Pederson scarf detail i apologize for the messy room! its been raining (i don't know what that has to do with it) and ive been very lethargic im thinking about just a tru-oil finish nothing fancy what do you guys think? Kenny

Im so sorry to hear that Daniel; it is terrible that death leaves us behind, but shes in a much better place now; i will keep you in my prayers

i do the exact same thing as southpa, never had any problems i would never try measuring out fret scales with a ruler i did it once and... (puts hand to head) i use cad now

the obligatory lots of clamps pic looks like a good build so far! personally, i wouldn't put the arm contour in there; i think it would kill the looks; however if your going for function over form, go for it! BTW: ive recently given up on clamping on veneers, ill stick to thicker pieces thank you!

Good luck chuck!!! (had to) are you going to slot, radius, and fret the fretboard yourself? thats where most things can go wrong..

here is what your job entails http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...amp;hl=fold+top

hot looking V quick question, how do you route your neck pockets? i usually do the myka method, but i dont know how to do it when its an extended joint (like you did) the one thing that im not to fond of is the neck heel, i think with some more refining it could be much better other than that, super nice guitar! Kenny

well get back to your shop soon

i agree, i use 11.13mm string spacing and even thats pushing it; for me 15mm is too large i did the same method erik did for my multi scale, which was build a wooden bridge that held the saddles, it was the more logical solution given my options Kenny

Chuck! good to have you on the forum! guitar building...according to the DEA is more addictive than heroin...so beware. you might find yourself spending all your spare money on parts and equipment, then reminisce a few years and realize that you have a wood shop in your garage equipt to the hilt with the best instrument making equipment lots of friendly people here, so if you need any help, opinions (there are lots of those!) or ideas, you know where to look! Kenny

ah that sucks! get better man!

hahah...thats funny :-p i was talking about just a glass board...thats no problem, now that i know glass can be sanded, but ideally i would want titanium, in the next few weeks im going to be going around various mills to see if that have some scrap sheet titanium i could snag, or buy i dont want to spend 120 for a sheet thats 3x larger than i need...

i really should have specified what i was doing more i was originally going to build a fretless guitar with a glass neck, however i couldn't find anyone willing to cut and round the glass for me (its to "small" a project i guess) the reason i didn't want to use wood for the fretboard was in my experience(especially the half fretless guitar i made...bad idea) it seemed to have a very dampened tone(fwiw it was an ebony fretboard) . i would say 1 metal is more resonant than another metal just the same way i would judge woods. some woods are just better than others at transmitting vibrations (same reason people use spruce instead of purple heart as acoustic guitar tops in my mind) so id imagine that the same could be applied to metals i'm assuming that the different crystalline structures of different metals would lend itself to the metal being able to transfer vibrations better than others. my knowledge of metallurgy is very limited but i did look to instruments like the hang and steel drums., which are just pieces of steel that are vibrating... so its related in principle(sort of) id imagine that softer metals like aluminum nickel or copper would have a much looser crystalline structure than that of steel titanium or even iron. However, im just making this inference from guitar frets. Stainless steel frets are very "bright" sounding, as apposed to the "nickel-silver" (an alloy containing aluminum copper and 15% nickel) frets which absorb more of the vibrations of the string i dont know where im rambling on to, i love the sound that the vigers surfretter produces, they should tell me what thier "delta metal" is

alright, i havent posted my designs here yet, but im doing a concept guitar with a fretless metal fretboard; however i'm a little stuck on which metal to use. right now im leaning towards a stainless steel fretboard, but i want everyones opinion; being as i have nearly no knowledge in the area of resonant metals Kenny

hey, thanks man good luck on yours! hopefully we'll see up posted up under inprogress soon! Kenny

its like someone just got out of the shower....or was just working in the shop all day and decided to take a promo pic

alright i have to ask; whos eye is that, or is that just a stock photo?

yes, but a mess compared to what...just imagine that incident if you didnt have it i think it would be a relief to see a cut, unstead of a stump

i think if your intelligent enough (or lack that intelligence) to consume ANY substance, even if its cough syrup that impares any of your senses even slightly, then choose to work with power tools designed to cut dense materials into smaller pieces; you deserve whats coming to you that is unless you own a saw stop; then you can smoke 2 but seriously...its a bad idea

hello i don't think there are many explicitly stated tutorials but my advice would be search neckthru builds (there are tons, including one of my own - see sig) and try to learn from the pictures; its very straight forward, but if you have more specific questions and don't find them with search wed be more than happy to help!

hopefully, you do great work with that cnc man; maybe ill ship some of my stuff out to you to help me

wow, i didnt like it at first, but with the yellow, thats killer i love how the writing isnt clean looking, really works with the effect Kenny

well, my saw was special aswell :-p did i mention it broke mid cut? haha thats when i invested in a 17" grizzly - much more useful! its the tool i use the most! anyways, yea, i like to play it safe, because lets be honest, what are you gonna do with those cutaways

ive done this one one of my builds, the blade definitally leans depending on its thickness, so i would reccomend leaving maybe an inch or more around your actual outline