avengers63

Welcome to the Elevator From He11....

Oh yea... I'm leaving the fretboard alone for a while. I don't want to work on it while I'm mad at it.

fretboard binding on grain-matched cavity cover

Being pretty aggrivated about the whole thing, I decided NOT to try and do any more work on the neck finish today. I did, however, get the heel contouring done.

Like i said, I glued in the neck over the weekend... ...and then took it out of the clamps this morning. And you have GOT to be F'ING KIDDING ME!!!!!!! :D B) Despite the shellac on the fretboard being topped off with poly, the clamps not only squished the finish and put a red discoloration into it, the pads went BETWEEN the upper frets to do it!!!!! So I gotta ask - how many of you heard be go ape-sh1t from where you are? All that I can do is scrape it off, give it a good rub-down with alcohol, and do my best to salvage it.

I just watched a whole bunch of his stuff to get a bead on prices. All of them went for $100-$225.

crap You're right - it's just over 1/2". You'd be fine with a full carve. Might still need binding, but you'd be just fine.

Right at 1/4" thick..... Yes, but it'd be a fairly shallow carve, and you'd want some kind of binding to hide how thin the top really is. Nothing wrong with using it as a flat-top. Just sayin'.....

Nothing really to see. I glued in the neck this afternoon. I should be able to work on the heel carve Monday. It's a mixed blessing. I love it when my kids are here in the summer. It's really great to have them with me for a 2-week hitch. But I can't get anything done while they're here. If I'm not right there with them for a 1/2-hour, they come and get me EVERT SINGLE TIME. They don't get that I mentally CAN'T be just right there with them 24/7.

I've heard Black Sabbath done by Pat Boone. I could handle it by Nickleback.

I reasonable rough-estimate for a neck blank is 3" wide by 34"-40" long. The length can/will vary with whether it's a drop-down headstock or scarfed, and 3+3 or 6IL. The width shouldn't go any narrower than 3", but can go wider if you don't want to glue width to the headstock. The thickness is a different story altogether, and entirely depends on the headstock as well. A drop-down only needs 1" stock. A scarfed headstock needs 1" as well. A one-piece tiltback headstock needs 2"-3" thick stock. For your board, you could get 2 necks out of it, so long as it's long enough.

Cherry is SUPER bright. I have bodies of both maple & cherry, and I think the cherry is the brighter of the two.

Regular strings, and the string guide works like a dream. It has actually inspired me to try and make a nut from scratch.

I'm positive that linseed oil would be easier than what you're suggesting. Unlike other oils, linseed oil cures, so it takes just forever to lose that "wet" look it sounds like you're looking for. Also, Tru Oil will cure to a hard, glossy finish. It can be built up to a thick layer, which might not be what you want for your rosewood board. Linseed oil will allow you to still feel the board under your fingers.

BODY mahogany base 1/8" flamed cedar top natural clear with blackburst edges NECK 7-ply flamed maple, plain maple, chechen, putpleheart cedar faceplate & backstrap blackburst on headstock FRETBOARD birdseye maple abalone dots & purfling black binding HARDWARE & ELECTRONICS gold hardware Kahler trem 3 R.A.D. mini-humbuckers (you're awesome, buddy!) 6-position rotary switch undetermined other switching

I think y'all are misunderstanding. Like this...

I'm ready to glue the neck in, but I'm noy sure exactly how to approach this. It's a set neck, and it will have a smoothed out neck access. Clearly, this needs to be done after the neck is glued it. HOWEVER..... The neck is teak, requires no finish, and will have none. So how do I handle the smooth-carved transition from finished to un-finished?

'58 TWINS build thread THEME My interpretation of the two classic guitars Gibson introduced in 1958: the Flying V and the Explorer. The intent was to stay true to the original designs and looks while making some clear changes to suit my tastes. Design wise, there was every effort made to have them be as similar as possible within the constraints of the different instruments and shapes. Because of all the differences, these would be properly labeled fraternal twins rather than identical. BODIES 4-piece white limba, per original specs (8/4 white limba is pretty hard to get around here, so I had to thickness-glue 4/4 stock together) 1 9/16" thick, per original specs NECKS wenge bolt-on white limba pinstripe wenge fretboard pearl dots zero-fret The fretboards themselves are bookmatched to one another. HARDWARE black with gold screws headless units wenge knobs tortoise pickguards modified from original shape ferrules for neck screws SPECIFICS Guitar: wenge string guide to widen the string spacing wenge pickup rings Rockfield Mafia humbucker set 3-way toggle, 1V, 1T Bass: Carvin MusicMan pickup 1V wenge jackplate

I had some spare time yesterday, so I went ahead and did the headstock. It's a variation of the classic Danelectro "peanut" shape. I exaggerated the curves a bit and reversed the top. Instead of a scarf, it's a drop-down. I know some folks here have said/will say that a 3+3 doesn't look right on a drop down. Tough crap.

tone I like a lot of bite, but a maple body with a maple neck has no balls. It's the only guitar I have that I actually use the tone knob regularly.

What kind of wood was it? Bloodwood??? It is now! It was chechen. Fortunately, with all of the vibrant colors in chechen, what little blood remained was well camouflaged.

I have TWO necks made from walnut, and two bodies. It's really great stuff to work with. In my house it's Formica + ash or Formica + poplar. I definitely won't be making any more maple bodies. Maybe a maple cap, but not the whole thing. Blubber rolls = ex-wife. I'm 6'4", come in around 260, and she outweighed me for a looooooong time.

It's not one of those "I'm fat" statements. Seriously - I HATE those. I agree with them and go to great lengths to describe the grotesque blubber rolls that are dripping over their ankles. No, I just realized that 2/3 of my guitars have a maple neck. I think that maple is boring because it's so commonly used. I just didn't realize that so many of them WERE maple. In my defense, 8 of the 11 maple ones were necks that I either bought or were made for me in trade. 9 of the 12 I've made or am in the process of making are NOT primarily maple.