riffster

I love it! Just by looking at it makes me feel like I need to play slide guitar. Classy.

I think this might help you. I am building a Carvin dc replica. I took the picture and just scaled it and hand drew it, cut it out the body, and then used a 3/8 roundover. I am very happy with its look. To me, I think Carvin uses 3/8, but if not, its a good start and I don't think you'll be disappointed

That neck is a beauty! Lovin the combination of woods there. I am going to be using tru oil on my neck also. I cant wait to see my curly Honduran mahogoany pop like your Limba did!

It wasn't so much the same question, but an answer suits both of my needs. I forgot that I posed this question earlier at the forum. After I posted this thread, I just remembered that the answer was in the other thread. I do not have a serious problem. And for the record, the first time that I posed the question, I was still in the design process and was no where near cutting any wood. I just cut the blank yesterday. We pre -drilled the cavity for the tunomatic, pickups, and neck joint before we cut out the body. We did it a different way than most. Rather than using two stick tape or something (which we thought could slide), we made a template that was larger and fit the whole blank and screwed it into what would have been scrap wood. We just trust the more mechanical way I guess. So at this point setting the bridge at the appropriate place is out of the question. We routed both at the same time and they are at the proper distance. The mistake was made when making the template. I made the mistake. I believe that is what produced the smaller neck joint on the bass side. I will make another template for future builds even though the one I have now is ok. Thanks Mickguard for your reply, Nathan

I just remembered I had posted an older thread that had a similar question. Zyonsdream had menationed in this thread that he would personally not go below 2.5 inches for the sake of tonal transfer. Link. So I quess I am ok. But if anyone has any thoughts or experiences it would be very helpful and appreciated.

Hello, I think I may have a huge problem. My guitar body that I cut out yesterday somehow has a neck joint much smaller than I wanted. Its 25 scale. The bass neck dimensions should be 2 13/16. Instead the bass side is only 2 1/2! The treble side is fine at 1 1/2 inches. This neck is a RG style neck joint that is bolted on with four bolts. Now, I did make a swooping ark that has extra wood beyond the bass side. The longest point is 3 inches in the middle. Is my neck joint too weak? Please help.

I sure hope I am not doomed, but I won't' be surprised. For now, we are going to apply epoxy. the crack was also kind of a raised blister. When I noticed the crack and took it over to the guys house, we loosened the rod. After a period of time the bump disappeared. Since then, the crack has not gotten larger. By this observation, we have determined that the pressure has obviously been minimized and is most likely at the level it should be (or at least at a better level).. Action raised a little on the guitar, but we are going to compensate by sanding down the bridge a bit, maybe a 64th of an inch because with the decrease in tension from loosening the rod, we do not want excess buzzes. That would not sound pleasing at all. We are doing this first. If this does not work, then we will have to resort to building a new neck. Our way is, don't do more work if you don't have to. I'm crossing my fingers.

Thanks for analyzing the problem and providing a clear solution. In the back of my mind I figured a new neck would be the solution. The way you put the problem made a lot of sense. Thanks again.

Thanks for the reply. I really miss the sound of that acoustic. It was the best sounding one I ever heard. Thanks in advance if anyone else has any other remedies.

Hello Pg's I have an acoustic that my luthier friend help me build. It has a crack and it is on a five piece neck right in the middle of a thin strip of walnut. the crack runs parallel with the stripe around the first fret. There is no telling how deep the crack is. It has been like this for a year and 8 months while being taken care in its case with a humidifier. The crack runs about 13 cm's. Is it better to make a whole new neck or should we epoxy the crack? My builder friend and I are pretty sure that it was a fluke of a weak piece of walnut. The trussrod is rather large and a little too deep for the neck profile... But its a five piece neck! In the meantime, we loosened the tension of the truss rod and the bulging crack has flattened, but of course is still present. If anyone could help with suggestions it would be great. I miss my guitar and the luthier is of course very nervous. were just trying to take the right course of action. Cheers, Nathan. * I did look at the front page in the repair section and I am not convinced that tutorial should be applied.

Sunning! This guitar has got me digging pauls again. Thanks again for answering my question a while back! GOTM it!

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wow! you took the time to take a picture of what your talking about! I get in now. Thanks!

Beautiful and clean work blackdog. my only question is, did you put a smaller template on top then routed the sides to achieve that binding look? I know it may be a stupid question but I'm trying to learn. Keep up the good work. Checking out your guitar is now a guilty pleasure. It distracts me from doing my term papers! Happy Building!

Very nice wood and shape. Man, I love snakewood. I'm excited to see this one finished. Happy building!

Good job. Nice axe. How did you cut the neck tenon down to the body to incorporate the top? What was the best way of going about that?

Ok... SHWING! That is guitar porn. I have a JS1000. Right now I feel like stripping off all the paint and do what you just did. I love it! Could you please inform us on how you achieved such a beautiful finish?! Congratulations, give yourself a pat on the back.

Shimmed with binding... Thats crazy! I appreciated all the responses. Now I have a good idea what needs to be done. Thanks all.

Well, I have some options to contemplate now... Leave as is, toothpick the hole, or toothpick and epoxy. I probably won't use any epoxy. If anybody else has any recommendations I'll check this thread and listen up. Thanks again.

Ok. Thanks everybody for contributing. I do understand that there is more than one way to solve a problem. I won't epoxy it. I will leave it as is. Thanks again everybody!

I just want to let you know that I am not using a tailpiece behind the tunomatic, instead, I am going the string thru body route with ferrules. I figure that will apply enough pressure on the bridge. The post does not wiggle in the hole, it just slides in and out like butter. (Thats what she said). I suppose it would fall out of the hole if I turned it upside down. I feel like leaving it alone, but in another sense I want the loose post to be like the tighter one. Is there an ideal at all?

Huh, that would be weird, but I will try to see if that is the case. But should the posts be very hard to pull out and if they are, how do I remove them without damaging the guitar and hardware?

Thank you for your help. I will conduct that process as soon as I can work on it.

Hello, Yesterday I drilled the tunomatic post holes for the gotoh bridge with studs and bushings. One post is moderately difficult to remove, while the other is not hard to remove at all, which is weird because I used the same bit that was required. Is that a problem? Second, Do I have to do anything else to install be bridge besides making the post holes and just setting them in there? The installation just seems to easy to me. Do I need to use a light strength glue or wood filler for the posts? Sorry if my questions are stupid, I used the search function because its probably my best friend. I could not find anything else and if there is, sorry about the redundant post. : )

Yeah, I know I could, but if I can avoid any mistakes with re-drilling than thats what I hope I could do. Thanks for the suggestions.