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lmmr

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Everything posted by lmmr

  1. lmmr
    cool stuff, thanks for sharing
  2. lmmr
    hey, i'm from Lisbon also, for decent wood at reasonable prices try out http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk, i've ordered some neck blanks, flat rate of around 20 euro for parcels under 30Kg. can't help you on the EVH body, for pre-made bodies and other stuff check http://www.allparts.uk.com/ welcome to the forum, thought i was the only portuguese here
  3. lmmr
    sorry, missed that...
  4. lmmr
    or... there's one here
  5. lmmr
    how about thicknessing with a router? you would have to build some sort of jig though, to allow for the router to cover all of the surface of the body blank
  6. lmmr
    btw, what should be the typical thickness of a fretboard? 3mm?
  7. lmmr
    The best way to hold the rod in the channel seems to be epoxy, if you used titebond and after it dries it holds ok i don't see any reason why you should have the (major) trouble of digging it out, anyone disagrees with this? the tape over the truss rod is just to prevent glue from getting in there, remove it, when you clamp the fingerboard ideally all the squeze out will be to the opposite sides of the channel. i'm still in the early learning stage, i've only cut one carbon rod channel and had to redo it, so take my advice with caution
  8. lmmr
    Lisbon, Portugal
  9. lmmr
    how about a CD? has anyone ever tried to inlay one of these? can it be cut with a jeweler's saw as an inlay? i guess there's only way to find out...
  10. lmmr
    ah... this reminds me of monkey island... best game ever!
  11. lmmr
    has anyone ever mixed collets of different router brands? i have the hot rod router bit, however it only goes in a 1/4" (6.35mm) collet which i can't find anywhere for my router, the closest i have is 6mm, i measured the base of the collet and it's diameter is 10mm so in theory if i get a collet from another brand that has the same diameter it will work, right? by the way, does anyone have the measurements for a 1/4" dewalt collet, this one, at the base?
  12. lmmr
    thanks GuitarFrenzy, btw just how close do you put the carbon fiber next to the truss rod? something tells me that mine are too far...
  13. lmmr
    hi guys, need your help on this one, so i've cut the channels for the CF rods on the neck, the fit looks OK (not perfect though), the question is how do i glue the rodto the neck? i'm thinking using epoxy, fill any holes on the channel with maple dust and titebond and then sand the sucker until it's all flush, what are your thoughts on this? thanks in advance
  14. lmmr
    btw, using the sanding technique do achieve trueness, what grit paper you guys use and how long (in average) does it take to get a neck blank perfectly flat?
  15. lmmr
    watcha think about these?
  16. lmmr
    btw, for fingerboards (rosewood and ebony only) check out www.dick.biz, they are based in Germany with fairly decent prices.
  17. lmmr
    Here's something i stumbled upon, thought i'd share The Tension Free Neck Is this new? does it work? have you guys tried it?
  18. lmmr
    wes, was this the image you were looking for? it seems that if we flip the flatsawn board on it's side the compression ratios will match the ones on a quartersawn board. this sounds kinda weird but it does stand to reason
  19. lmmr
    hi everybody, i've been watching the forum for some time but this is my first post here, anyway in regard to this discussion, i've read in the hiscock book that laminating the neck the way rhoads56 described does indeed provide better stability *but* if the blanks all come from the same log and it shows a tendency to warp this won't help since all of the blanks will probably also warp, is this inconsistent with the flatsawn-flip-it-and-you-get-quartersawn theory? my two cents
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