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This should be fun! Never used roasted maple but a friend brought over some curly neck blanks awhile back that I'm itching to touch. Chris

GENERALLY... no. But I've heard there are chance of dye being pulled out of the wood (minor) into the finish layers which can make it less "crisp." I've generally avoided it... so it's hard for me to answer objectively. Chris

I generally try and use the opposite dye solution than my finish. IE: For waterbased finishes I would use an alcohol dye. For nitro, I use a water dye, etc. Chris

I don't know about BigD, but I've gotten my best results with Transtint (which is what stewmac rebottles, marks up, and sells as Colortone from what I hear). They've vibrant, mix with water OR alcohol (important depending on the finish you put over it), available at Woodcraft stores for easy access.... the list of positives stacks up quickly. Also, they're good, color-fast dyes My $0.02, Chris

Correct me if I'm wrong but the final verdict on the Gibson v. PRS case made that sort of a non-starter didn't it? Moreover, copywrites and patents are fairly useless IMO unless you have the cash and desire to defend them. Chris

The filter my photo guy was using may have screwed the color a bit, they're actually Daphne Blue. 1/3rd of that model have actually got true US wound Jazzmaster pickups too! Chris

This is coming out just fantastically! Chris

Here's my latest. She's been a long time coming and is the prototype of one of the two shapes I've started my company using. It was called the "Meeting" shape when this whole thing started, but now I'm endearingly referring to her as "Model 2" from here forward. However, as you'll see, this version is short-scale while the production models are long-scale. It's actually a 25.5" fretboard with the first fret removed which makes it 24 1/16" scale. I'd really like to get my hands on an original jaguar because knowing how Leo thought... I bet they're actually 24 1/16" too! Some of you may recognize her from my 'how to fabric finish with a light fabric' youtube how-to video. Specs- Neck: Quilted birdseye maple 24" scale fretboard with abalone dots on a plain maple neck 1 11/16" nut width Paisley fabric and kirelian birch burl headstock veneers 2-way LMI truss rod with carbon fiber reinforcement Body: Super light-weight paulownia wood in a 13.5" lower bout Blue paisley fabric finish with blue bursted edges. Fabric even folds into the belly and arm bevel carves Pearloid and custom made chromed steel pickguard elements Hardware and finish: USA Jaguar bridge (2 1/16" spacing), tremolo, mute, and standard controls Personally wound jaguar-style pickups to vintage specs Hipshot open-back locking tuners Nitro gloss finish Chris

Hey Folks. Without places like this I doubt dreams like this could have ever happened for me. So firstly, a big thank you to this forum. I'm going to be ceasing to use my old moniker as I have started a new company. In many ways it is an extension of that previous work, however that was always a hard brand to market given it had a greek letter in the name haha. Either way, I'd like to introduce everyone to Raygun Engineering and Raygun Guitars! Raygun Engineering is the new import wing of my design work. We've had some fantastic guitars made to our specs in Korea and are really proud to be opening for business very soon with them. Of course I will also keep building myself, which will now be under the 'Raygun Guitars family umbrella.' Please take a moment to check out our facebook and instagram: https://www.facebook.com/raygunguitars http://instagram.com/raygunguitars/ We also have a website that's currently in the process of being built. http://www.raygunengineering.com Best, Chris

Gah! I just got pictures for my entry last night and thought "eh, I'll have time to enter it tomorrow..." haha. Oh well! I went for DC Ross'. Between the fanned frets, interesting carve, and custom made bridge it had a lot of skilled craftsmanship going on there. Chris

Why the foam on the radius block for gluing? Is this purely cause you already have frets in the board? Or because you've found it helps create a nice tight joint at the edge? Loos great. Always amazed at how clean your work is! Chris

Love the body shape. I also like the headstock shape but I'm not yet convinced the two belong together? But I'm sure excited to find out in the end! Enjoying watching this come together! Chris

I've got to agree with Guitar2005 here. People aren't always going to like your stuff, and the goal of sharing is to learn, take feedback, and improve. He's right, that is a poorly executed burst. Learn from it. Strip it. And try again. Also, to put this in perspective to you: Bursts are hard. Don't get so bent out of shape cause you messed up your first one. Heck, Fender used to mess up bursts all the time and they'd turn those into solid colors instead. That's why on some old Fenders where the finish has worn through you'll see it go: red/primer/tobacco sunburst/wood. You're not alone. However, with responses like the above... you might be eventually. Take from this post what you will. Chris

Any ideas on cost yet? Also, any pics of prototypes so we can understand how they function? Chris

Now THIS is interesting... Fender seems to have actually used the concept. Now, there's no hum in the video in ANY position... so it's hard to tell anything from this video. But apparently the 2000's Marauder from Fender has a "triple bucker" in the bridge. In position 2 it uses all 3 coils. I'll have to see if there's one around this area somewhere to mess with. Chris

That's what I thought! But I had folks over here insisting in real life that's not how it would turn out... hence the question. Thanks! Chris

im building a jazzmaster type guitar right now and was thinking what to do with the upper controls. I was thinking maybe putting a SC sized rail bucker in the middle position that you could add in to any of the standard 3-way positions with the jazzmaster pickups. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this? Does adding a humbucker to a Singlecoil effectively still buck him? Or does it sound as hun-ridden as an SC by itself since there's one more cool of a single polarity/wind direction? Chris

Maybe I'm missing something but this should be no different than any other fret job... Chris

I've found a nice little way around that. What I'll do is put the tape on the fretboard but not press it down so it makes a perfect edge. More like sticking to the frets and lightly to the board. Paint flows under... but here's the trick. I've left the final fret edge dressing til now. That way when I run my file over the edge to finalize the angle at the fret ends I stop when it LIGHTLY hits the board. That's now the edge of my lacquer. I'll then go in with a fresh razor blade and with two quick passes any paint that hit the board's face it dealt with. Chris

Ops accidentally responded thinking some older posts were newer posts. Chris

OMG I feel dumb! I've never used the filters on the right side... so I've never noticed them. The first time I clicked that it just "worked" so I kept clicking it. Don't know how they changed, but dammed if that wasn't the culprit! Thanks! Also a great lesson for myself in product management and how users only see what they want to see hahaha. Chris

With not much body damage I'll likely just build a neck with a 1/32" wider end, it'll fully route out the old one. Maybe do it in something that wants oil instead of lacquer... that way if everything routes clean I just drop and glue the new neck in, oil it, and be done. Sounds easy hahaha. Chris

Is it just me or does this not work for anyone else anymore? Mobile and laptop views. I always get that there's "nothing new" yet I can easily go find new stuff. Including replies to my threads (aka: so I know when they've been updated pretty well). Chris

That's an interesting take Scott! It would explain the iterative failure on this build as well as a carve being boarder line too thin on another neck I did. Apparently black & white ebony is my failure wood! Chris

Disaster has struck yesterday. This guitar and a couple other received their FINAL COATS yesterday. They were hanging like they have for months, the way I have for years, the way even PRS hangs for finishing... But yesterday was not this guitars lucky day. Fell a good ways right onto the headstock tip; CF rods wouldn't allow it to split like an LP does, but there was so much force it just took what it could: This guitar proves there is such thing as a cursed instrument though! One headstock warped when the veneer was added making that neck scrap. Then an errant plane chip ruined the first fretboard. Finally got it done and was spraying it last year... Forgot I had just done some fret level work on it earlier and sprayed a ton of metal into the finish. Stripped it, sprayed it again this year... Now this. RIP. Chris