Meegs666

i resent the use of the word evil. i use a stratocaster and a gretsch to play evil music (black metal). not flashy, not evil. im sure some of the other fans of metal shapes use their pointy guitars to play music that is pretty conservative compared to what i play.

the problem only shows on the back of the body. its just a few spots where my plane took out chunks. i have since bought a new plane as the old one kept falling apart and the blades werent in the best condition as this plane came from my grandparents house and is probably older than my father. and just to make sure it wont fall apart i used dowel rods embedded into the joint to keep it together. i put rods where the neck pickup would be as im using only a bridge pickup and i also put rods past the cavity. im going to do an opaque color on the back and sides to cover up the joint tearouts.

ive been looking at stains and i think im gonna use a brown dye to raise the flame a bit and then do a clear gloss coat. id like some opinions on what i should use. any feedback is much appreciated.

heres an update. i cut an angled regular jackson headstock. i routed out the cavity halfway. i discovered that this limba has a nice flame to it. i had originally thought it was just from the cutter head of the planer we used, but its a flame. im also starting on the carving of the neck. its actually easier than i remember from my last project. i guess its all that experience i gained building necks all summer with my friend. well heres the pics. a nice shot of the whole body glued up, see the flaming? back of body a lesson i learned, always use a pillar drill when drilling for the stringthru grommets. these holes are way out of whack. this is the only mistake i regret making because it was stupid of me to lose patience and go at it with a drill and what i thought was a steady hand. neck carve here is where i was at in the carving earlier today. i had just started when i grabbed the camera. i am about one third of the way down the neck at this moment. soft wood but im still taking my gawdawful time. i really want a thick playable neck for this one.

here is a Seven string guitar body that i am working on that came from the same stack of limba that i was talking about can you see the subtle waves going perpendicular to the grain? nothing like quilted maple, but still a nice quilt/flame. good enough for me. im probably staining it walnut. to look like black limba.

you can buy individual tuners from stewmac or warmoth. thats what i do with seven strings.

im not completely sure about this one, but i would get epoxy or some super glue type stuff in an injectible syringe type thingee and squirt a little dab under the fet ends and press them down. ive never done this but i think it would work. or you could use a tooth pick too. id wait and see what anyone else has to say tho, as im not sure on this.

thanks a bunch. im just glad that im not seeing things. im gonna post the picture just because i want everyone to see. if not for the figure than for the fact that its a damn good bass body he made.

try jemsite.com they definitly have something very similar. i really think it was one of those high end models that was only available in japan.

i have no idea if it exists. all i know is me and my friend came across some limba that appears to have a flamed or quilted thing going on. we first thought it was from the planer head but after sanding it down almost 1/8th of and inch the effect was still there. i dont know much about this kind of wood as it isnt indiginous to the states. can somebody tell me what the hell is going on with my wood. ill have a picture in a few days to show what exactly is patterned in the wood. after he added the finish to his bass body you could see it even better.

to tell you the truth i would plug the holes with dowels and start from scratch with a new scale length and make a neck.

the variax is expensive for what is inside, not the pieces on the outside. i highly, HIGHLY doubt that you will find the components or the entire package for less than $200 us.

ive never heard of micro pots. my friend said i should use them since space in my cavity is cramped. ive noticed that the pots in my strat are a considerable amount bigger than the tiny pots that i found to replace the pots in my gretsch jet. they are just about the size of a dime i think. are these micro pots. if so where can i buy them?

is building a neck completely out of the picture?

thanks a lot for the advice. the pickups were the only problem. ill check out some jag p-ups.

i was wondering if it would be possible to use a bass pickup on a 30 inch scale guitar tuned one octave below standard. if so, could i put it under the pickguard or disguise it in a jazz master shell? also does anyone know what to use as polepieces on a fake pickup. ive seen people make fake pickups and ive wondered what you use for polepieces. this is gonna be like a jaguar with a 30 inch scale neck and fender VI strings, but i cant find pickups to use that will pickup the low tuning with the right balance and equilization.

that is amazing. does it have a neck angle? if it does im curious on how you compensated in the wings for it. on my seven string neck through i cut a piece of wood and glued it to the bottom to jack up the fretboard.

try stew-mac.com they have a truss rod called a hot rod that comes in a few different sizes for mandolin, acoustic, electric guitar, and bass. i think the bass truss rod is 24 inches long.

i know this. but you can buy the thicker strings from different companies for tuning it to one octave lower than a guitar with a 30 inch scale. i just like the idea of having it one octave lower since it would help me out a tremendous deal writing music for bass and guitar, and because of the fact that in my band i switch between baritone, seven string, and standard tuned guitars. i just needed pretty much the specs of the neck and scale length. for pickups i was thinking about something. i think i could use a five string bass pickup underneath the pickguard and fake the pickups by using the covers of jag pickups and make fake polepieces. would that work if i had a pickup under the pickguard? i mean plastic isnt magnetically charged is it? ive seen pickups with no holes for the polepieces in the plastic. im making a jazzmaster as my next normal six string and im buying the templates. ive seen the new jag baritone that fender makes and the parts are nothing special, just a regular tom with larger notches in the saddles. i dont need a trem at all. my dad works in metals so he could widen the holes in the stoptail and tuners.

my previous project is going to be coming to close shortly and im in the mood to do a bit of research. i might go the route of doing a baritone tuned eadgbe, one octave lower than standard. does anyone know what the basic specs are on the fender vi? is it just a standard jag bridge and pickups? i cant find any info that goes very deep other than telling me the obvious.

the best way to get good answers on the board is to search.

i just did a quick bit of research and found that a normal crave top has a 4 degree angle, the flat tops have a 2 degree angle. Technically you dont NEED the angle, persay. you can always raise the fingerboard. there are always those that argue that you need the angle when many of out friends here have gotten around the dreaded angle by raising the neck a bit. from what i see its always hell cutting a tenon for a non carved top angled neck.

i think it was all a matter of cost and ability to actually cut an angled pocket. they were beginner guitars. the angled pocket in a carved top les paul is angled because the face of the guitar is at an angle. they dont use a template that is angled. you can cut the heel a lot easier if it is a straight pocket too, you dont have to worry about overshooting the angle. also to me angled necks dont look so great on flat tops that have a substantial amount of wood around the pocket. it looks perfectly fine on a v, but in my opinion it doesnt look that appealing on a lp jr singlecut. they could have very easily cut an angled pocket on the double cuts, but it was all a matter of time, cost, and effort.

he claims most of his unfinished blanks came from factory closings and stuff like that. since he's obviously in so good with these southern california guitar guys i guess he got first pick (or so he claims). he would much rather hand make you a lawsuit guitar from the ground up and charge you sh*t prices than actually finish a body blank from the actual company because that would mean he would have to charge less in order for all cordialness since he never really had to lift a fricken finger on it except maybe sanding it down and adding its hardware and pickups.

i just used normal wood files and had no problems. even if you do find a nut like that, chances are it is not going to be specific to your guitar's exact specs including action. that is why most people just do it themselves.