westhemann

i can't figure it out,argytar...no matter what i do,all i get is a dead page. i think your hoster may be unreliable?maybe you should get a different host and re-enter next month? the url for that link is waaay longer than normal...

check out the threads on the trem king and the pinned thread on the kahler system.by what you describe,you may prefer the trem king version...it looks more vintage or you could go with a wilkinson...they are fairly vintage looking,but are for use with a standad nut(no fine tuners).if a bigsby is staying in tune for you,a wilkinson will too.it sounds like you don't get tha wild...like maybe you just use it for a slight vibrato

i think that all you would need to swirl a neck through would be one of those 50 gallon drums you buy at tractor supply company and a good way to seal off the fretboard(unless you wanted to swirl that too...)

that is a good link,syxxstring...i think i myself will find that useful and yeah,i have not seen you around here in forever

sounds like old strings or action too low

oil based paint and thw bucket is full of water. basic swirling,i just have never seen it done on video before.the guitar must be completely sealed before submersion

swirled NECK THROUGH explorer though.i'm gonna need a bigger bucket

that really is cool matt. i never really liked swirling...but i think now i must do a swirled explorer....

vinny...there was no reason to cut and paste another quote from another thread to here.

house of kolor but you would need to find a distributor outlet i think these guys have global in the name...so check them out http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemde...IT-KC210/212-QT

with all of my experience playing and building vees i have to say that looks almost completely unplayable.no upper fret access,no comfortable ergonomics...basically it takes away everything that makes a vee comfortable. take away the points next to the neck,make the wings narrower.you can keep the basic W shape if you are set on it,but the obstructions at the neck end have to go...otherwise you will never play it.it will just sit on the wall

check out kxk guitars...he basically just specializes in metal,so he makes them perfect for that. i have the ssv and it is the most perfect v i have ever played..so good i ordered another one last year but i don't mean necessarily buy one,i just mean check out his setup...floyd or kahler trems,emg 81/85 combo...stuff like that.check out where the neck joins the body(they are neck thru) because it provides full fret access and still balances well.might give you some ideas. www.kxkguitars.com

ebay greg.those bc rich nj series from a few years ago are all equipped with them and are selling cheap. i bought a warlock for $300 a few years ago brand new and i have a black speedloader just waiting for me to put on something better.i am sure if you try you can find a used nj for less than $200

yeah but to be fair i have one of those systems and they work well.the strings are good too.very similar to dadarrios or dean markely. which is why i don't understand why greg won't just stop wishing for something else and just use the speedloader on that headless he has been talking about for years now.i keep suggesting it.in my opinion for a headless a speedloader is the way to go

i understand..i know how going through the proper channels works,but i am glad you are doing it.i think it can only help. p90...as a long time floyd user(15 years),i can tell you that to this day i don't like the rout involved,the way the edges wear out and affect tuning,cutting off the ball ends,the complicated intonation setting procedure,constantly flipping the guitar to adjust the spring tension,then tune it,then adjust,then tune... the great thing about the kahler is that all of the adjustments are done from the top,with the strings on....

thanks for the dimensions and all the help. one note though.if you really want to kill the floyd market then you are well on the way...BUT as long as floyd can accept ANY guage string and kahler can't,you will find it tough to take over the 6 string heavy guage market. as you said earlier,if you made larger ball clips available,or even special kahlers set up to accept those heavier strings,then you wold be golden and i would never buy a floyd again. as i said,i personally use lights,but i am building some on my next run for others...and some of them love the 11s(even though i think that is a silly string gauge to use)

we just mean it works as a nut,not behind the nut. 5511 http://www.wammiusa.com/kahler%20systems.html

maybe so.but that is my point.that info needs to be easily available.then there will be no guesswork.you of course must know that we are striving to make our guitars as perfect as possible.so if the info is there we will use it

mick,you must stop using this forum to spout your political beliefs.you must realize very few in the world are going to agree with you. i edited your post...try to avoid the politics...especially in the build sections...there is really no excuse to go off on a political tangent like that edited to reflect mick's sensitivities(j/k)

thank you.you are welcome to post it here as well...we can pin it and have it for good

yeah but we build our guitars from the ground up...raw wood to guitar in a few months...know what i mean?we are not retrofitting. but where would the luthiers you take it to get the info?you kind of have to put it in use to catch the little things,you know? anyway...i see we are posting over the top of each other.i am going to sleep and tomorrow i am sure you will have my questions answered.i thank you for being so patient...and i really do like the product...i just want to know how to best build my guitar to work with the trem,that's all

i think you misunderstand me...the arm drags on the black one i have as if the threads are binding.the chrome one i have does not do this...but that is very minor. the base...it is slightly warped.it makes a difference because i need them to sit flat.maybe it is just that particulr unit.again the chrome one i have does not have this issue no just the intonation screw...you know how when you string it up the string almost touches the intonation screw behind the roller?it is an oval head screw and it just causes a bit of a rattle if the saddle is set low.some of us like pretty low action and having strings close to the body near the bridge as well...don't get me wrong,i know next time to create a neck angle to raise string clearance to the body so the saddles sit higher.i justwish it would have been mentioned in the literature because it is not apparent just by looking at the bridge...and it is very difficult right now to find a working guitar with a kahler to look at in the stores...aside from the haneman model and the kerry king model,i really know of none. these are just suggestions anyway,because most of us are very unfamiliar with these trems...an installation sheet would be a REALLYgreat thing to include in the box...you know,saddle height,stuff like that please don't read this as antagonistic.i just have to type in a hurry ecause my net kicks me off alot and i lose my post

one other clarification.i use lites already and i will still buy the trem because that is my preference.but alot of these guys use regular gauges...they should know that you reccomend 9s

just to be clear.i am not one of those members.i have been chasing your trems for years now and i am ecstatic you are here.i just found some issues on mine that i think are important for you guys to resolve.in the form of clear,concise info if nothing else. as in string diameter.nowhere in my literature does it reccomend lite strings,but it really should...also nowhere does it mention saddle height and it really should,because some guys want to rout out a fixed bridge and install the kahler,but this won't work on a standard guitar with no neck angle...you follow? don't worry about sleep.the site will still be here tomorrow.you can get your sleep and come back

i am also curious about the 2300.i find them to be near impossible to buy and i would readily pay extra if it is a flawless unit.idon't buy parts to be cheap,i buy them to be flawless.if i wanted cheap i would buy an already built ltd...they cost less than just the parts and wood for that explorer i built. not that i am saying the 7300 is cheap or flawed.i justwonder if the machining flaws are still being "debugged" as far as a locking nut,a behind the nut is already available,and the site says a one piece is coming soon(last time i was there)...but a floyd nut works fine...that is what i used on mine