westhemann

you make alot of good points,perry...and i do agree thay can charge what they wish...but i think in reality they are probablg pricing these up to make them collectible. they could make a whole bunch of them and sell them for $1500 a piece and make a major killing...more so than just a few at $6000...but if you flood the market,the collectibility goes down. i suspect this guitar is meant to buy and put in a glass case,then in 50 years it is super collectable...so in that way,it is worth the money. as a player's guitar...it is not..but i would never buy a regular jem either...not for a bolt on basswood guitar

really. it's already grounded through the battery

try to match slayer pull upswith a floyd...you can't.i have to bend and pull up at the same time to reach the right pitch

that is ridiculous...none of that is any different from any other guitar ibanez makes...they ALL absorb the engineering cost of the whole line...each guitar does not absorb it's own engineering.the guitar itself is an advertisement...they put it up there and the guys who love it and can't afford it buy a different ibanez that they can afford,but the interest was generated by theglowing guitar they saw on the net.so it benefits the entire line to come up with this outlandish stuff. and acrylic guitars are nothing new...the ONLY difference between this guitar and those cheap ass bc rich acrylics is the led and the phosphorous paint..the led is cheap and there is very little phosphouros involved. sarcasm can be effective..but not when it is based on fallacy

i use the 18"...and if you read the bottom of that page they tell you the 18" is the one for an electric

www.lmii.com yes they can make what you want...and no,buying radius blocks and doing it yourself is not better... i always buy fretboards from lmii...instead of ordering online,call them on the phone and tell them exactly what you want.ibought one board from doug on this board,but he says he doesn't do that much.lmii is what you want. they come a little thick(1/4") for my taste...i always take 1/16" off the back with a jointer

well what do you want curtis?a head or a rack?they are independant in the case i am talking about.. you can get a line 6 head...a 50 watter costs about $300 or less(they are dirt cheap...for a reason)this might be fine for you and it would be a huge step up from the p.o.s. you have now...this plugs directly into a cab...any cab with a similar ohm rating...but look for vintage 30 speakers...carvin cabs have these http://www.carvin.com/products/single.php?...212E&CID=GA the tech 21 head http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Tec...itch?sku=480224 is much better...but more $ as well..same thing...plugs into any cab...but i would stick with art least a 280 watt cab...which would be too loud for what you want i think...but you don't have to push ithard like a tube amp...the sound is the same at any volume except that you push the speakers abit. jensen speakers are nice at low volumes...so i suspect the cheapo 400 watt behringer cab may work for you. a rack now....this is the sansamp preamp http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Tec...eamp?sku=480041 i have that one...it has better sounds than the line 6,but is more expensive...combine it with any power amp..thisone is the cheapest i know of http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Roc...Amp-?sku=480118 you put this one here in between them http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/TC-...ssor?sku=183030 and plug it into that carvin 2 by 12...and you have a huge array of sounds to play with.the sansamp has built in gain and enough eq...so all you need extra is the delays,choruses,flangers, and reverbs this unit provides get the optional footswitch... and you get a rack to put it in http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Gat...Case?sku=544792 i have that one...you need at least 4 spaces. and that is exaclty the setup i am going to use on my combo amp project coming up...in which i will combine all of those into a 2 by 12 enclosure

but fry...that IS perfect.you can always find the joint....and depending on the wood,some are harder to see than others... maple for example...the joint is always visible...it's the glueline that can't be seen...now alder is different...the texture of the interlocking grain is such that the wholejoint dissapears if you have 2 pieces with grain running perfectly straight... but as was said...if you can see light,a clamp will not suffice...as i said,i clamped a body join in alder to invisibility...you could just barely see light before i did...and now 2 years later(i had it in a closet for a while)you can clearly seea glueline where the middle spread back apart metalwork is the opposite...any decent fit can be welded and ground into invisibility...the tolerances in woodworking are much tighter...

MUCH better...now see...as a stick instrument i like it.

i just watched that video...and i am sorry...but that was not impressive...the left handed guy was obviously having much difficulty,and stayed mostly down in "normal" hand position... the other guy was much better in a different video...but he did play it "stick" fashion...

a rack is simple...preamp,effects,eq,and power amp...for the basic.it all fits in a rack case....you just plug everything together and run the power amp out to the cab. if you want a head...look at the sansamp tech 21...or the line 6 heads...the tech 21 is much better though

if you enjoy it,all is cool...it is just a mystery to me....i may be just a bit jealous that i'm not good enough to play something like that properly

yeah,i understand. when i first started using emg i felt the sameway...but it isn't a case of "you don't have to,but you can if you want to" it's a case of "if you ground the strings,emg will not work properly" there is less risk of shock with emg ungrounded than with passive grounded...and zero hum

probably the markup...that is about 20 times what it costs ibanez to build....but i'm not going to buy the relic either

the 7300 comes with brass saddles. strats are awfully bright anyway

like postal said...if he can see it,it aint .002 you want it perfect...perfect means no light...nothing less and i HAVE done the clamping thing in the past...it don't work,man...if it's under pressure it creeps right back into a visible gap...sometimes a few days after you clamp it....sometimes longer.now you can scoff if you wish...but all it does is make you sound like a "good enough,screw it" guy

much better...a little classic "bonded by blood" that takes me back to the eightees

that first video is cool...

btw...if you use emg actives you know you don't even need to worry about that...

hmmm...why don't you build a rack,curtis? start with a sansamp rack preamp,combine that with a carvin tube rack power amp,and between the two run a multi effects processor ,and run it into one of those 2 by 12 speaker cabs carvin has. it's portable,it has bookoo sound choices,and it would sound good at any volume...plus you could buy it piece by piece everybody know the only way to exit is piece by piece..

i am still fascinated by the stick...i don't know if i could ever play it though...

by theway...i just want to go on record as saying an 8 string guitar without a trem is heresy!

if you say so.i just don't see how you could ever reach the top strings and still hav e your thumb behind the neck...and if you don't have the thumb behind the neck,the tendons in your wrist are going to be under tremendous strain...tendonitis is the enemy.

i disagree...you want to have absolutly zero gap anywhere before glueing....clamping just puts it under stress.

the abm system is better i think...no string thru body...IF the strings will fit